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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, now that I have my recurve setup for outdoor, do I switch arrows for indoor or keep shooting the smaller shafts? I know that the bigger shafts would be an advantage for indoor, but what happens to all the hard work you put in for tuning the outdoor shafts and everything. Do you just switch and fix it all again?? I am thinking about just shooting the smaller shafts and keeping everything the same for indoor.

Anyyone else have $.02 to give? Do you switch or not??
 

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Goals?

It depends on what are your personal goals and priorities?

Is the indoor season important and a high X count in Vegas?
Have only one bow vs a light poundage indoor bow and a heavy poundage 90 meter bow?
Is there sufficient time between the indoor and outdoor/field seasons to switch arrows and retune?

In AZ we can always shoot outdoors, so staying with outdoor arrows year round is a natural.
Plus there is only a month between the NAA Indoor Nationals and the Arizona Cup.
On the other hand, if you have an indoor bow, and an outdoor bow, you can have a bow that is specific for each type of shooting.

Its sort of like a house.
No one floor plan is perfect for everyone.
Some have two homes.
 

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LeEarl said:
OK, now that I have my recurve setup for outdoor, do I switch arrows for indoor or keep shooting the smaller shafts? I know that the bigger shafts would be an advantage for indoor, but what happens to all the hard work you put in for tuning the outdoor shafts and everything. Do you just switch and fix it all again?? I am thinking about just shooting the smaller shafts and keeping everything the same for indoor.

Anyyone else have $.02 to give? Do you switch or not??

two theories-I will give you both. I watched Butch set the national record with big aluminums-I also know that the world indoor champion of 03 shot X10 and the 01 WC shot ACE

1) stick with your outdoor set up-no need to retune, if you shoot a one spot you are less likely to get deflections, and lots of people say that can get the X10 to tune better

2) switch to line cutters (you don't see any compound pros shooting the thin stuff do you?) Better clearance. Most of our top men like Butch and Vic shoot the fat alums. John Magera noted he didn't see an advantage (jump in John if I am misstating your position). ALuminums are alot cheaper as well and with all the problems I have been having I don't have the confidence to shoot a five spot.

I do Number 2-I thankfully can afford complete set ups for each of the three events I shoot-indoor, field and Fita so I just leave a bow (have a back up for fita and indoor ) set with a different set of arrows etc.

If you have just one bow it comes down to how much time you have to retune your bow-if you want to save time, buy two plungers-one for each set of arrows and a rest like a cavalier elite that is easily adjustable for arrow width -side to side, up and down (I use cavaliers on my indoor rigs-ARE's on my outdoor
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Jim, that is what I wanted to see. Here is my problem. I do not want to get a second bow just yet and I have the setup very close right now. I have already cut off my ARE arm for the small shafts and I do not think a bigger shaft wil rest on the arm right now. So I am going to stick with the smaller shafts for now. My goal is for outdoor anyway and this way I can get the setup perfect before next year. Also, I can work on getting my poundage up to around 50# before outdoor next year.

Well, I can say the switch is final and I am selling almost everything I have for my target compound. The only stuff I am keeping is the stuff that I can put on my hunting rig! :D
 

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LeEarl said:
Thanks Jim, that is what I wanted to see. Here is my problem. I do not want to get a second bow just yet and I have the setup very close right now. I have already cut off my ARE arm for the small shafts and I do not think a bigger shaft wil rest on the arm right now. So I am going to stick with the smaller shafts for now. My goal is for outdoor anyway and this way I can get the setup perfect before next year. Also, I can work on getting my poundage up to around 50# before outdoor next year.

Well, I can say the switch is final and I am selling almost everything I have for my target compound. The only stuff I am keeping is the stuff that I can put on my hunting rig! :D
lots of guys go lighter indoors-I do-Darrell used to say he could pull more weight with the sun on his muscles than flourescent lights indoors :eek: of course, if you shoot the same poundage, you can jump right from the NFAA indoors to the Arizona cup without a problem. Magnus Peterson won the 95 (IIRC) indoor worlds shooting something like 53 pounds-that string rips off your fingers and small mistakes are less costly then say when you are shooting a ligher bow.

I shot some really good indoor scores with 47 pounds-even with crappy form flaws-when I hurt myself and dropped down to 40 or so pounds my scores were never as good-
 

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i followed limbwalker's advice if i wanted to shoot the small aluminum carbons indoors..try the 2.25" quickspins...i had spin wings on 12 cartel triples 700s which i had already tuned for 30m..i put the quickspins on 6 of them and tried them on 18m and they worked out pretty well.
 

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Here is what I plan...

I'm currently in the process of fletching up some 2212 x7's with 3" feathers. I also plan to purchase a new plunger and rest identical to that which I currently use outdoors. The ring that secure the plunger to the bow on my current set-up has a set-screw that locks it into position on the barrel of the plunger. I plan not to loosen this and remove the plunger as an assembly. I'll then store the outdoor plunger set-up with the outdoor rest and my outdoor arrows. Then I'll go and set-up the new plunger with the new rest for my indoor arrow. It will be an additional 120.00 in cost for the new plunger and rest but I figure it will be well worth it to not have to fiddle to much with an outdoor set-up come spring. I'll then be set-up come next winter indoor season. I do not figure I'll be getting rid of the Matrix for a number of years. I can also adapt these set-up's to any newer riser in the future.

Tom
 

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LeEarl, it is too bad that you clipped the rest, otherwise the investment to shoot larger diameter indoors is relatively small. I use a Cavalier Free Flyte Elite, and can easily adjust to any arrow size. I also use a different plunger so as not to change my outdoor setting, and not to groove the tip. Being in Florida, I am able to shoot bth indoors and outdoors in the same season. I use x7's with 4" feathers. They are slow, but correct better than anything else I have ever seen. Judging by past performance, I feel that I squeeze out 4-5 points that I would have missed with my ACE's.
In my club, we have some excellent shooters-some use aluminum for indoors some do not. Vic is a member of my club, and he uses X7's. I shot next to him last year, in a regional event, and watched him pour in 59/60 10's/x's with one amazing miss. He still can't explain it. Yet, we have another shooter who consistently is at 585+, using ACE's-he doesn't like to change his set-up.
Although I can't claim scores in that rarified air, I do see changing as a benefit, for me, and mostly because of the fast correction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
J-san, that is correct. I, as of now, will not be shooting a compound for targets unless I shoot both classes, recurve and BHFS with my hunting rig. I really want to make a go of the recurve shooting. I am not sure if I can make it to the MSAA 1/2 FITA this year because of a conflict that weekend. I hope to shoot a few outdoor shoots still this year to try out everything.

Hope to see you at a shoot :D
 

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LeEarl,
Cutting off your rest may not preclude you from using bigger shafts. The centerline of the arrow is at about the same location regardless of the shaft size, and that is where the arrow is supported. The button needs to be moved in toward the bow when you go to bigger shafts.

When switching from indoors to outdoors, I just change button, string and arrows. It is quick to go from one to the other.
 

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my indoor strings are set up slightly differently. speed is not an issue indoor and the nocking point is going to be slightly different based on the much thicker arrows
 

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I HATE tuing. I'd much rather shoot. Once I got my recurve dialed in I shot that setup for everything. My arrows are Navigators. If you don't mind tuning, I'd shoot fat arrows indoors and thin ones outdoors. I hate tuning enough that I shoot thin arrows for everything.
 

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I know that the bigger shafts would be an advantage for indoor
Not necessarily...

Jim C is correct. I have seen no real advantage indoors from fat aluminums. I do shoot them, but it's as much to save wear and tear on my X10's as anything. My best NFAA indoor round in competition (299 - 39 X's) was shot in Louisville in '04 using Navigators and spin wings. I went on that spring to shoot even better scores with those Navigators, using Quick spin vanes.

The absolute best 18M groups I've ever shot were with my X10 outdoor arrows with 1.87" Flex-fletch vanes, so go figure...

I have also shot very good scores (585+ 18M fita) with 2312 X7's. But then, in the winter, I usually set up one rig for indoors, and leave my main outdoor rig alone. Not an option if you only have one bow, so I recommend you stay with the small diameter outdoor arrows, and tune them as well as possible for your indoor distance.

John.
 

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I agree with johns POV I have shot my personal best indoor scores with my X10's even though I also have a bow tuned for CT Hippos...I don't really have an explanation, to why, but ponder this...If you hit the spider at 18m every time, its still an X whether ur shooting X10's or logs...
I think that larger shafts give most people a Mental edge, but once you have your physical and mental form developed, it shouldn't matter what you shoot. Case and point Michelle Frangilli, he shoots ACE's indoors or out, and his scores dont really vary much between the 2...
 
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