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Insert glue that holds well but is still removable?

8.5K views 38 replies 29 participants last post by  Houghtonic  
#1 ·
I'm wondering if there is some wonder glue that holds inserts well enough that in shooting at targets it will not lose it's grip on the arrow and leave it in the target. I also want this wonder glue to be reversible...i.e. if an insert gets bent or you just want to make an adjustment, you can do so without damaging your arrow.

I've used easton 2 part epoxy and insert iron. They hold amazing, but if you want to later remove an insert....you are in for a very delicate balance of heating and pulling that will likely burn the carbon to break the bond. Plus insert iron expands while it cures, which is a PITA.

I have used ferr-l-tite (the higher temperature amber colored hot melt) and it worked good for me with my Victory stainless t-shok inserts in my VAP arrows. Every once in a blue moon I might have an insert stay in the hard foam (not the replaceable core) of a 3d target. Going with that system has allowed me to re-use arrows with very little effort in the scenario where an insert bent or I wanted to experiment with a different insert weight. I could simply heat up the insert and remove it.

I am trying to transition to RIP arrows (.204 ID) and using either ethics insert of the stainless shok ss insert that comes with the RIPs. These inserts have little or no collar on the outside of the arrow shaft, and with the hot melt, I'm having a hard time keeping the inserts on. In very limited shooting, I had two ethics inserts stay in the target, and just now I had one of the shok ss inserts fly off the end of the arrow after stopped in the target core. Literally the momentum of the insert and field point pulled it off the arrow as it stopped. The insert and field point impacted the tree 5 yards behind the target. I'm going to try using a bore cleaning brush to score the inside of my arrow more, but I fear that the hot glue just isn't strong enough with the lower amount of surface area of these inserts.

Any other glue that has stronger bonding strength than hot melt, but that I can still heat it up and get it to break the bond (not so much heat that I'm burning up the carbon)?
 
#2 ·
Have used Farr-l-Tite Hot melt since the late 60's & only time they didn't work was user error in cleaning insert or shaft. Cold inserts won't hold & if they aren't clean or if don't clean inside of shaft.
 
#13 ·
I have had great luck with the Farr-ITite Hot melt. When you want to remove an insert later put in a target point and heat it up with a heat gun or torch and the insert will slide out with pliers. Do not overheat or you will ruin the shaft. It does not take long to soften the hotmelt enough to pull the insert.
 
#3 ·
I use AAE Max Impact:

Stays put forever, and then when heated turns to liquid to allow change or repair. Heat gun is the best tool for this type of work.
 
#38 ·
I too have had very good luck with low temperature hot melt sticks from various craft stores. It holds well and can be removed without damage due to the low melting point.
 
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#5 ·
Worth mentioning:

The thick epoxy is an important design function of the arrow system. It not only strengthens the end thats taking hard contact but it helps with transferring concentricity ( getting your inserts perfectly straight)

The failed arrows we find on our range, heads left in carpet bales, etc are almost all due to hot melt and other lesser glues on inserts.
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#6 ·
I use super glue. When I need to remove an insert I use a 200 gr field point and a small propane torch. I heat the field point up and allow it to transfer heat to the insert. I use a pair of pliers to grab ahold of the field point and the insert usually comes out with ease.
 
#9 ·
Some glues expand a little and you get a mechanical lock along with the bonded surfaces. If the glue shrinks at all then you just have a surface bond and it may not be enough on a short insert. Very long inserts like a .245 ID 100 grain brass insert, I have been able to use about anything. Short ones can be a problem without the glue providing a mechanical lock also. If you try to drive out an insert with a drill bit, and it won't move, or it slips a little but you can see like little waves in the carbon where its being altered because the insert is so locked in....then you probably have a mechanical lock and not just a bonded surface. If it drives out and you have basically a slick surface on the glue on the insert and no distortion to the arrow, then probably just a glue bond.
 
#10 ·
Gorilla Glue expands a bit. As a result, it creeps out and needs to be cleaned off. For points and nock inserts, I use 5 minute epoxy and work quickly as I have almost got caught with the point partway in. As for CA, I found that there are only two types, ethyl and methyl CA. I use different types for custom pens. A chemical engineer said the only difference in what I use is the viscosity but chemically the same. However, CA can become brittle over time.
 
#14 ·
I’ve been using hot melt for a couple years and had good success. I guess I had been getting sloppy with my prep due to using long inserts with integrated collars the last couple years.

I went back and reglued the couple inserts that came off and so far so good on not coming out in the target. Unless there is a stronger bond version of hot melt, I’ll just get more stringent on my prep.

Thanks for the responses.


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#18 ·
Probably is the same product. Reason I have always used hot melt is I always adjust my BH's 4 blade to align with my bow string, this has eliminated having any flyers & can change inserts weights when ever I want with out ruining the shaft.
 
#19 ·
I tried several. Settled on Gorilla Glue low temp hot melt sticks like go in hot glue guns. Haven't pulled out any inserts for over a year since switching to it. I will say that my glue in points are always the same diameter as the arrow shaft. I have seen guys with outserts and points larger than the arrow shaft pull them out in the bales. Doesn't seem to matter what glue they use.
 
#20 ·
The blue bohning cold-melt. Never had an insert leave the shaft.

Big key: don’t be skimpy with it. Douse that sucker and you’ll be happy.

Removal is super easy (I’ve used hot tap water to rotate inserts to get broadhead/vane matching).
 
#31 ·
The blue bohning cold-melt. Never had an insert leave the shaft.

Big key: don’t be skimpy with it. Douse that sucker and you’ll be happy.

Removal is super easy (I’ve used hot tap water to rotate inserts to get broadhead/vane matching).
This has been my experience as well. I’ve never had an insert come out of mine either. It’s super nice being able to sit in hot water and remove it to put in a heavier/lighter insert.
 
#23 ·
^^^. Not saying it couldn’t but living in Florida and hunting in 100+ temps in sept and I have never seen it. I’ve left arrows sticking in my 3d and pulled on ridiculously hot days. Maybe I’ve just been lucky but the rod tip glue is the best I have found period.
 
#27 ·
My archery stuff stays in my van all summer long & have NEVER had a point or insert pull out of any of my arrows using Ferr-l-Tite Hot Melt. That was the funniest thing I ever heard of rod tips coming off left in a hot car!
 
#30 ·
OK, have your laugh...at my expense. Come off on the first cast or when stringing the line. I built custom fishing rods for seven years and always used 5 minute epoxy for the tip top guide. Never trusted hot melt.
 
#29 ·
I use cheap Walmart brand hot glue stick for a glue gun but heat with a torch. Not hot enough to make it to hot to hold and heat the stick slightly as well this is what I was recommended by an arrow manufacturer for target stuff and after seeing Tim Gillingham using it for hunting stuff as well I’ve been using it but not shot a animal with it yet