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Inserts, and outserts, and collars, oh my!

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inserts
5.5K views 35 replies 19 participants last post by  thearrowbuilder  
#1 · (Edited)
Gurus... first thank you for all of the help as I dive HEAD FIRST back into archery after not setting up a bow or arrows for ten years. As an engineer, I can't let the little things go, and it is a lot of fun digging in. I have worked my way through shafts, vanes, nocks, jigs, and broadhead selections (hopefully they tune well), but I am now getting into inserts. Boy has this game changed. I have RIP TKO (5mm for those not familiar), and they come with the 50gr I/O. I have read mixed opinions on these. I am sure they work fine, but with broadheads, or in general, is there a solid reason to go to a HIT or anything else? Seems like ironwill is solid, but where the collars are useful/required is a bit unclear. If anyone can break down the benefits when shooting 3d and whitetail hunting I will take the advice. I am not opposed to spending the money, but I would like to make sure it is a worthwhile upgrade.

ideally staying with 50gr, looking at a TAW of ~440 and 50+100 up front puts me at 14% FOC which is where I want to be.

Thanks again, this has got to be the most helpful forum I have ever joined.
 
#2 ·
Most companies that use aluminum don't tell you if it's 6061 or 7075. If it's steel, unless they specifically say otherwise, it's 303. And Ti is almost exclusively grade 5.

The strongest system will have a longer footing into the shaft than the point sticks out in front. This is why HITs can be so strong, but the collar is needed to prevent blowout from lateral force. The carbon can just split lengthwise and pull the points out sideways.

Another benefit of HITs is that they're much easier to keep concentric because the point can square itself to the front of the shaft and take the slack in the threads. Inserts, outserts, and half outs need really good QC and historically it's hit or miss for most manufacturers.

I don't like the Iron Will collar because it doesn't meet flush with the point. The step down to the collar makes it a pain to remove from targets. Other collars actually taper evenly. Collars don't need to be special materials, because the insert should take most of the impact, but they need to be square and it helps to pack the space with epoxy.
 
#3 ·
It seems like a HIT is the best route, is what I use now.
I built some RIP TKO 340 spine with hit inserts and used the collars, bushings, and nocks from the gold tip kinetic kahos 340 arrows they fit perfect.

I wish they made the HIT inserts so you could screw weight on to the back of them.
I actually made 4 arrows this past weekend and glued a gold tip fact weight in behind the hit so I can add weigh on the back with a wrench.
I don't see why that won't work, I did some searching and could never find anyone that was doing that.
I saw where folks were using 2 hits back to back or a small screw and a hit for extra weight.
The Iron will stuff cost so much I was just exploring a different rout, and wanted to be able to tinker some. lol
 
#6 ·
I've built a few TKO's and used either the Black Eagle stainless half-out (55grains) or a Gold Tip Airstrike stainless half-out (72 grains). You have to do your research as far as OD on the TKO's. You have to see which half-out (OD of the half-out) will work for your particular arrow OD, but so far this combo has done very well and held up well overall. I have been using the blue low temp "hot melt" glue when installing these because I can check concentricity using an old Thunderhead ferrule and bearing rollers with a white piece of paper under the head to see run-out and the low temp glue heated to the correct temp gives me a small window where I am able to turn the insert enough to get it to spin perfectly true, then a quick dunk in cold water will set it.
 
#7 · (Edited)
my setup for the past 2 yrs has been

Rip TKOs
50gr brass HIT
25gr Iron will collar
100gr broadhead (Grim Reaper mini mag)

if you wanted lighter up front you could use the aluminum HIT that i think is like 20gr

ive put them thru around 15ish animals since switching to this setup (deer and pigs) and outside of broadhead damage, never had an issue with the arrow/insert/collar system...no complaints to make, boringly reliable. even shooting from elevated and sticking arrows into the hard dirt on the backside have been fine

the collar having a small lip on the backside only sucks to pull out of bags...i just dont shoot bags with them, theyre fine in foam. my bag arrows i remove the 25gr collar and screw in a 125gr field point that matches shaft diameter...gives me the same 175gr up front and same total arrow weight
 
#8 ·
my setup for the past 2 yrs has been

Rip TKOs
50gr brass HIT
25gr Iron will collar
100gr broadhead (Grim Reaper mini mag)

if you wanted lighter up from you could use the aluminum HIT that i think is like 20gr

ive put them thru around 15ish animals since switching to this setup (deer and pigs) and outside of broadhead damage, never had an issue with the arrow/insert/collar system...no complaints to make, boringly reliable. even shooting from elevated and sticking arrows into the hard dirt on the backside have been fine

the collar having a small lip on the backside only sucks to pull out of bags...i just dont shoot bags with them, theyre fine in foam. my bag arrows i remove the 25gr collar and screw in a 125gr field point that matches shaft diameter...gives me the same 175gr up front and same total arrow weight
What spine?
 
#14 ·
I prefer regular hits from Easton and ethics ss collars for 48gr up front on rip 300’s. I used to use aluminum collars but was bitten by the dial of death in my garage. Shot into brick at 20’ and completely mushroomed n split the aluminum collar. Did it again months later with the stainless and all I had to do was spin the fp off in the mortar. My only gripe with this build is sanding the shafts for collars. Pia!
 
#17 ·
I’ve had pretty decent luck with the victory 75 grain half outs in the VAP TKO Elites I’ve been shooting. They will bend/pick up a slight wobble after a hard impact. I use hot melt so I’d just swap them out for a new half out.

The downside I’ve recently noticed is after removing all of the half outs, a lot of the arrows now have a wobble to them. I believe this is from the leverage created by the half out. All the arrows spun perfect before and now have a bit of a wobble.

I’m now setting up my arrows with iron wills Snyder core which is a hit insert for .166 arrows and the head (field point or Broadhead) has a longer shank with threads on the end. This puts the insert and point a few inches into the shaft then I’m adding a collar as well. While pricey, the strength will be hard to beat.
 
#18 ·
I plan on building the same arrows after the season. I was going to go with rip tko 300 spine shafts hit inserts and a gold tip collar. I think the traditional arrow collar was the closest size. I didn’t like the ethics collars as they always got stuck in a bag target and having to sand the shaft is a pain in the ***
 
#21 ·
Screwing into the back of an insert isn't necessary. I just epoxy a HIT behind a Sirius half sleeve when I need to get 525gr up front for 930 TAW. I use the same epoxy I used to build golf clubs with (GolfWorks).

Not a fan of collars. I take the collars/footings off my Airstrikes and use 75gr HITs. Truth be known, I bust up & go through arrows more from slapping shafts than through impact. I always bend arrows and have snapped more in half from checking than I ever have shooting.

I can't emphasize enough- check your arrows often.
 
#22 ·
Truth be known, I bust up & go through arrows more from slapping shafts than through impact. I always bend arrows and have snapped more in half from checking than I ever have shooting.
100% agree. Rarely do I break a shaft that isn't from another arrow impacting it or something else reasonable. That's at my typical 442 grains too.

I don't see a point in adding weight up front unless it's adding durability. I don't do FOC just for FOC's sake. In HIT configuration I've never had any issues with an Aluminum as it's footed into the carbon - but I prefer Titanium for the better strength/weight ratio. Steel is great but due to density for the same weight an aluminum or Ti foots further into the shaft. I've used the Ethics collars extensively and haven't been impressed as they are tough to get out of a bag target. For aluminum the VPA collar is nicer than Ethics IMHO. I do like a steel or Ti collar as aluminum is soft and dings easily if you end up slapping them together. Yes, I know, don't aim at the same dot but at 60+ yds I'm aiming at the middle and it happens.

All in all - Aluminum HIT & SS or Ti Collar is the best .204 system out there. I'd invest my money into other items like strong broadheads with Ti or quality steel ferrules.

I'd try these and use a stock easton aluminum or 50 grain brass HIT.

I just epoxy a HIT behind a Sirius half sleeve when I need to get 525gr up front for 930 TAW.
Goodness... What is the goal here? Is this a trad setup?
 
#24 ·
100% agree. Rarely do I break a shaft that isn't from another arrow impacting it or something else reasonable. That's at my typical 442 grains too.

I don't see a point in adding weight up front unless it's adding durability. I don't do FOC just for FOC's sake. In HIT configuration I've never had any issues with an Aluminum as it's footed into the carbon - but I prefer Titanium for the better strength/weight ratio. Steel is great but due to density for the same weight an aluminum or Ti foots further into the shaft. I've used the Ethics collars extensively and haven't been impressed as they are tough to get out of a bag target. For aluminum the VPA collar is nicer than Ethics IMHO. I do like a steel or Ti collar as aluminum is soft and dings easily if you end up slapping them together. Yes, I know, don't aim at the same dot but at 60+ yds I'm aiming at the middle and it happens.

All in all - Aluminum HIT & SS or Ti Collar is the best .204 system out there. I'd invest my money into other items like strong broadheads with Ti or quality steel ferrules.

I'd try these and use a stock easton aluminum or 50 grain brass HIT.


Goodness... What is the goal here? Is this a trad setup?
I lean heavily towards Titanium as well and I believe I have sound logic.
An arrow doesn’t have to break for its integrity to be compromised. A slight warp or bend to an insert, half out etc.. will make an arrow wobble and not shoot accurate. It will wobble all over the place and make shooting a broadhead damn near impossible. Even if your arrow doesn’t break your arrow can still be garbage if it has a bend in the hardware upfront. I use Titanium half outs as they are least likely to bend then aluminum etc….
 
#31 ·
You don't need anything special for whitetail to be honest collars tend to be recommended for animal like elk that have tougher skin I think the reason why is because it's a smoother transition in diameter but not sure. The biggest complaint about the stock inserts is they're aluminum again your not going to have any problem from that with deer though