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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

So my press finally came in, installed it last night and started putting it to work this morning. I'm shooting an RX7 Ultra at 71lbs, 29.5" draw length. Before I had access to a press I was shooting BH about 6 inches to the left of FP at 30yrds. When I would shoot through paper at around 9-10ft I was getting a high right tail tear. My centershot is 13/16ths, I would like to leave it that way if possible. I raised the arrow rest and I am pretty close to center now when shooting fletched through paper, tail is still a tad high as you can see from the picture. BUT when I shoot a bareshaft I am consistently hitting tail low.

My issue is my bareshafts are hitting tail low when my fletched are hitting tail high. The same thing occurs when I shim the cams. I get a bullet hole when shimmed hard right on both top and bottom BUT with fletched I am tail right...... Do I tune for bareshaft and forget the fletched?

New tuner at a loss on what to do.....


All my shots are consistent like this, I changed the paper so I could give you guys a clear picture instead of 30 holes.
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Hey Guys,

So my press finally came in, installed it last night and started putting it to work this morning. I'm shooting an RX7 Ultra at 71lbs, 29.5" draw length. Before I had access to a press I was shooting BH about 6 inches to the left of FP at 30yrds. When I would shoot through paper at around 9-10ft I was getting a high right tail tear. My centershot is 13/16ths, I would like to leave it that way if possible. I raised the arrow rest and I am pretty close to center now when shooting fletched through paper, tail is still a tad high as you can see from the picture. BUT when I shoot a bareshaft I am consistently hitting tail low.

My issue is my bareshafts are hitting tail low when my fletched are hitting tail high. The same thing occurs when I shim the cams. I get a bullet hole when shimmed hard right on both top and bottom BUT with fletched I am tail right...... Do I tune for bareshaft and forget the fletched?

New tuner at a loss on what to do.....


All my shots are consistent like this, I changed the paper so I could give you guys a clear picture instead of 30 holes.
View attachment 7709421
I'd figure out why this is happening. What is the most common cause is that your vanes are hitting something and kicking the arrow high. Ironically, lowering your rest can help this as it gives you more clearance.

Here's what I would do: spray your vanes/back of arrow with the coating foot powder or coat with ground chalk or lipstick. Shoot and look at the bow and vanes to see if there is contact. Whether there is or not, lower the rest to get the bareshaft shooting nock level up/down. Check for vane contact again.

You haven't mentioned your rest. Vane contact with a dropaway rest is often due to rest timing or another issue. What type of rest do you have?

If you get your bareshafts shooting good through paper, then you can determine why your fletched arrows aren't doing the same. I think that order of operation is easiest as far as figuring things out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd figure out why this is happening. What is the most common cause is that you vanes are hitting something and kicking the arrow high. Ironically, lowering your rest can help this as it gives you more clearance.

Here's what I would do: spray your vanes/back of arrow with the coating foot powder or coat with ground chalk or lipstick. Shoot and look at the bow and vanes to see if there is contact. Whether there is or not, lower the rest to get the bareshaft shooting nock level up/down. Check for vane contact again.

You haven't mentioned your rest. Vane contact with a dropaway rest is often due to rest timing or another issue. What type of rest do you have?

If you get your bareshafts shooting good through paper, then you can determine why your fletched arrows aren't doing the same. I think that order of operation is easiest as far as figuring things out.
I'm using a QAD drop away rest.

I will go test now, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'd figure out why this is happening. What is the most common cause is that you vanes are hitting something and kicking the arrow high. Ironically, lowering your rest can help this as it gives you more clearance.

Here's what I would do: spray your vanes/back of arrow with the coating foot powder or coat with ground chalk or lipstick. Shoot and look at the bow and vanes to see if there is contact. Whether there is or not, lower the rest to get the bareshaft shooting nock level up/down. Check for vane contact again.

You haven't mentioned your rest. Vane contact with a dropaway rest is often due to rest timing or another issue. What type of rest do you have?

If you get your bareshafts shooting good through paper, then you can determine why your fletched arrows aren't doing the same. I think that order of operation is easiest as far as figuring things out.
Alright, sprayed some calamine lotion on my vanes, no rest contact from what I can see.

Adjusted the rest down 4 clicks, see picture below for results. I'll probably adjust it one or two more click to get it perfect.
Unfortunately my draw board hasn't arrived yet so I cannot check cam timing or rest timing. I plan on going to the local bow shop later today to have that verified.

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You absolutely can check cam timing without a draw board. I use my bow scale with a backup string in case the d loop fails. Just pull it down and watch when the draw stops hit. All you really need is something to hold the bow back safely as you observe the draw stops. Twist cables a half twist at a time until they hit together, or better yet when your bare shaft hits the same as your fletched at 20 yards. You really don't need the paper either unless that's your preference. Twisting the cables has more effect on the vertical than raising/lowering the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You absolutely can check cam timing without a draw board. I use my bow scale with a backup string in case the d loop fails. Just pull it down and watch when the draw stops hit. All you really need is something to hold the bow back safely as you observe the draw stops. Twist cables a half twist at a time until they hit together, or better yet when your bare shaft hits the same as your fletched at 20 yards. You really don't need the paper either unless that's your preference. Twisting the cables has more effect on the vertical than raising/lowering the rest.
Would cam timing explain what I am seeing now?

I called my local bow shop just now to explain what is happening ... They told me I should be shooting through paper at 10ft, that I need to be about 2 feet away to see exactly what the arrow is doing as it leaves the bow. That logic doesn't make full sense to me ... what do you all think?
 

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When you shoot through the paper is your arrow parallel to the ground? To me it is much easier and instantaneous feedback to bare shaft tune vs. paper tune. Since you've verified there is no fletching contact, something about shooting through the paper is misinterpreting what is going on.

I'd suggest you shoot a fletched and bare shaft starting at 10 yards. Correct the up and down by moving your arrow rest or timing now that you have a draw board first. After that fix the left/right either by shimming, twisting yokes, moving arrow rest, whatever you have available to you. Step back to 20 yards and repeat the process. Once bare shafts and fletched are hitting together at 20 I can almost guarantee your broadhead flight will be good as well.
 

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While you are waiting, add a 1/2-full twist to one cable and see what happens. If that doesn't work remove twists and move to other cable and repeat process. Spine # on those arrows?
 

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I'm using a QAD drop away rest.

I will go test now, thanks.
The way that QAD says to time the rest is suboptimal according to me and a few others.

This is what I do. Loosen QAD cord clamp thing. Draw the bow to full draw on board. Put a ruler on it and lower the string so that the board is holding about 1.5 to 1.0 inches from full draw. While there, very carefully, slide the clamp down until the rest is not just where the 2 indicator lines on the rest are level but actually past each other (the rest is pulled up/back as far as possible).

The instructions they give you will have the rest coming up early and a lot of tension on your cord.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
While I was waiting on replies from ya'll I tried what the bow shop said. The 4 shots closest to the top of the paper were at 2 feet, the 4 shots towards the middle of the paper were at 10ft.

I'm done with paper, going to go outside and see what bareshafts and fletched at doing when I shoot at the target. Will start with 10yrds then move on from there.

Arrows are 28.5" long, spined at 300.

Gna check cam and rest timing before I go hitting the target.

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The inconsistency is like you and your form, grip, how hard you are pulling into the backway, and/or anchor changing a bit. IF you can consistently see bare shaft and fletched tear opposite left and right, that's likely contact. This will affect up and down too. But..... 20-30 yard bare shaft tuning will tell you a lot too; unfortunately, it might be a little harder to diagnose slight contact from bare shaft tuning. If BS hits left of fletched, you would be moving the rest to steer the fletched toward the bare shaft. But... if you have slight contact and your bareshaft is tearing tail left, you will be chasing your... tail :)
I would try and get as close to a bullet hole with bare shaft, then go to 10 or 20 yards and shoot bare shaft vs fletched and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Rest timing is good, cam timing is slightly off. Top cam is hitting the string stop, bottom cam is 3/16ths away from hitting the string. From what I read I don't need to worry about that.
 

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Rest timing is good, cam timing is slightly off. Top cam is hitting the string stop, bottom cam is 3/16ths away from hitting the string. From what I read I don't need to worry about that.
3/16 is a good bit off. Unless this Hoyt reacts different than practically every other Binary cam bow, you want those suckers hitting together (or very close). I haven't tuned an Rx7, but I'd add a half twist to your top cam cable and check again. Since you have a press now, it would take about 1 minute if that.
 

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if you're not shooting bareshaft bullet holes through paper, then I don't see any reason to move back to 20 or 30 yards and shoot bareshafts because they are going to plane like mad

shooting bareshafts at 20 or 30 yards is hypersensitive to tune and form....i'd get your paper tune done first

edit: It isn't uncommon to have perfect bullet holes at 15 to 5 feet (like you couldn't make them look better if you pushed the arrow through by hand carefully)....and they'll still plane 6 inches or a foot to one side at 25 yards....also, I wouldn't shoot bareshafts past 25 yards unless you are a machine
 
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