[iuodcoats]

You absolutely can check cam timing without a draw board. I use my bow scale with a backup string in case the d loop fails. Just pull it down and watch when the draw stops hit. All you really need is something to hold the bow back safely as you observe the draw stops. Twist cables a half twist at a time until they hit together, or better yet when your bare shaft hits the same as your fletched at 20 yards. You really don't need the paper either unless that's your preference. Twisting the cables has more effect on the vertical than raising/lowering the rest.

 

[iuodcoats]

When you shoot through the paper is your arrow parallel to the ground? To me it is much easier and instantaneous feedback to bare shaft tune vs. paper tune. Since you've verified there is no fletching contact, something about shooting through the paper is misinterpreting what is going on.

I'd suggest you shoot a fletched and bare shaft starting at 10 yards. Correct the up and down by moving your arrow rest or timing now that you have a draw board first. After that fix the left/right either by shimming, twisting yokes, moving arrow rest, whatever you have available to you. Step back to 20 yards and repeat the process. Once bare shafts and fletched are hitting together at 20 I can almost guarantee your broadhead flight will be good as well.

 

[iuodcoats]

Would the difference in arrow weight affect what I am seeing? Since one has fletching and the other doesnt?

I doubt it.

 

[iuodcoats]

Rest timing is good, cam timing is slightly off. Top cam is hitting the string stop, bottom cam is 3/16ths away from hitting the string. From what I read I don't need to worry about that.

3/16 is a good bit off. Unless this Hoyt reacts different than practically every other Binary cam bow, you want those suckers hitting together (or very close). I haven't tuned an Rx7, but I'd add a half twist to your top cam cable and check again. Since you have a press now, it would take about 1 minute if that.

 

[iuodcoats]

Your vertical looks pretty good. I would move on to horizontal adjustment now. You can mess with cam spacing, or move your rest to get that horizontal nock right out. You can also mess with your grip by adding more thumb side pressure or less. This is more difficult to be consistent with.

 

[iuodcoats]

I'd bump your rest out 1/16 to the left and see what it looks like.

 

[iuodcoats]

If bareshafts are hitting with field points and broadheads are hitting with field points, you are done. You've achieved what you wanted. I think once you've went through the bare shaft tuning process a few times you will ditch paper all together. IMHO it's a wasted step and not that useful.

 

[iuodcoats]

Hah, this is almost exactly what I settled on.....

Gave up on trying to get solid bareshafts at 30. Went to 20 and tuned to get the bareshafts to hit my field points, from 30 - 50yrds I used broadheads and field points to finish the process.

Pretty much my exact process. Field tips at 20, bare shafts at 20, broadheads @40. People will argue, but paper is unnecessary and a waste of time. Once I'm broadhead tuned I can usually get bare shafts to fly with fletched at 30. Past that it's super dependent on your form.