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Athens Vista 33, 35, Axcel sights, Hamskea rests
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Your vertical looks pretty good. I would move on to horizontal adjustment now. You can mess with cam spacing, or move your rest to get that horizontal nock right out. You can also mess with your grip by adding more thumb side pressure or less. This is more difficult to be consistent with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
if you're not shooting bareshaft bullet holes through paper, then I don't see any reason to move back to 20 or 30 yards and shoot bareshafts because they are going to plane like mad

shooting bareshafts at 20 or 30 yards is hypersensitive to tune and form....i'd get your paper tune done first

edit: It isn't uncommon to have perfect bullet holes at 15 to 5 feet (like you couldn't make them look better if you pushed the arrow through by hand carefully)....and they'll still plane 6 inches or a foot to one side at 25 yards....also, I wouldn't shoot bareshafts past 25 yards unless you are a machine
My bareshafts are smacking my field points at 20 yrds. I should be able to leave paper alone at this point right?

I think I'm going start shooting broadheads to get my 30 dialed in.
 

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If bareshafts are hitting with field points and broadheads are hitting with field points, you are done. You've achieved what you wanted. I think once you've went through the bare shaft tuning process a few times you will ditch paper all together. IMHO it's a wasted step and not that useful.
 

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Is that the same arrow repeatedly or multiple arrows.

If the same arrow and you can’t get the same tear I’d vote it’s a form thing.

If different arrows. I’d try nock tuning. See if rotating the nock changes the tune. Sometimes it’s pretty dramatic.
 

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I just fought with this over the last couple of days.
I’m in Florida and locked down from the hurricane. Went out last week amd beat my bow up pretty good going through the woods so decided to check things through paper. Had the same tear and the same situation. Here’s what I did….skip the paper tune.

As soon as the weather cleared I went out and started from scratch.
1) put the bow in the press and put everything back in to spec
2) sighted in at 20 yards using field tips
3) bare shaft tuned until I had a laser at 20
4) slight tweaks at broadhead tuning and nock tuning
5) repeated with same tweaks out to 30 and 40 with field tips and broadheads.

Now shooting bare shafts, filed tips, mechanicals and fixed blades all on out to 40. I’m an eastern white tail hunter so all my shots are 30 and in.
Point being, I’m now 10 times more confident in everything I was this morning and not gonna lose sleep over a weird paper tear. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I just fought with this over the last couple of days.
I’m in Florida and locked down from the hurricane. Went out last week amd beat my bow up pretty good going through the woods so decided to check things through paper. Had the same tear and the same situation. Here’s what I did….skip the paper tune.

As soon as the weather cleared I went out and started from scratch.
1) put the bow in the press and put everything back in to spec
2) sighted in at 20 yards using field tips
3) bare shaft tuned until I had a laser at 20
4) slight tweaks at broadhead tuning and nock tuning
5) repeated with same tweaks out to 30 and 40 with field tips and broadheads.

Now shooting bare shafts, filed tips, mechanicals and fixed blades all on out to 40. I’m an eastern white tail hunter so all my shots are 30 and in.
Point being, I’m now 10 times more confident in everything I was this morning and not gonna lose sleep over a weird paper tear. Just my 2 cents.
Hah, this is almost exactly what I settled on.....

Gave up on trying to get solid bareshafts at 30. Went to 20 and tuned to get the bareshafts to hit my field points, from 30 - 50yrds I used broadheads and field points to finish the process.

:)
 

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Athens Vista 33, 35, Axcel sights, Hamskea rests
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Hah, this is almost exactly what I settled on.....

Gave up on trying to get solid bareshafts at 30. Went to 20 and tuned to get the bareshafts to hit my field points, from 30 - 50yrds I used broadheads and field points to finish the process.

:)
Pretty much my exact process. Field tips at 20, bare shafts at 20, broadheads @40. People will argue, but paper is unnecessary and a waste of time. Once I'm broadhead tuned I can usually get bare shafts to fly with fletched at 30. Past that it's super dependent on your form.
 

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Paper isn’t a waste of time. If you aren’t consistent through paper, you’re not consistent down range. Bare shaft bullet hole means one arrow is tuned with the bow close range. Fletching is icing on the cake. At close range. After that I work on bare shaft/fletched out as far as I’m consistent. Then micro adjust for fixed broadheads. It’s a combo of shooter/bow/arrow tune. Do what you will, or capable of. It’s the shooter that screws things up the most.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Paper isn’t a waste of time. If you aren’t consistent through paper, you’re not consistent down range. Bare shaft bullet hole means one arrow is tuned with the bow close range. Fletching is icing on the cake. At close range. After that I work on bare shaft/fletched out as far as I’m consistent. Then micro adjust for fixed broadheads. It’s a combo of shooter/bow/arrow tune. Do what you will, or capable of. It’s the shooter that screws things up the most.
Oh I still plan on using paper, I just got stuck up on it for a bit too long.
 

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Hey Guys,

So my press finally came in, installed it last night and started putting it to work this morning. I'm shooting an RX7 Ultra at 71lbs, 29.5" draw length. Before I had access to a press I was shooting BH about 6 inches to the left of FP at 30yrds. When I would shoot through paper at around 9-10ft I was getting a high right tail tear. My centershot is 13/16ths, I would like to leave it that way if possible. I raised the arrow rest and I am pretty close to center now when shooting fletched through paper, tail is still a tad high as you can see from the picture. BUT when I shoot a bareshaft I am consistently hitting tail low.

My issue is my bareshafts are hitting tail low when my fletched are hitting tail high. The same thing occurs when I shim the cams. I get a bullet hole when shimmed hard right on both top and bottom BUT with fletched I am tail right...... Do I tune for bareshaft and forget the fletched?

New tuner at a loss on what to do.....


All my shots are consistent like this, I changed the paper so I could give you guys a clear picture instead of 30 holes.
View attachment 7709421
That much difference from fletched arrow to bare shaft is fletching contact. More than likly are rest timing issue if it is a drop away rest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
That much difference from fletched arrow to bare shaft is fletching contact. More than likly are rest timing issue if it is a drop away rest.
Shoot me a PM would be happy to walk through your issues and get them resolved.
All is good gents! I moved away from paper and focused on shooting bareshafts with fieldpoints out to 20 yrds. Cleaned up all my issues there then broadhead tuned to 50yrds.

Thank you for trying to help! Now I just need to work on my target panic when placing my pin on a deer :)
 

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All is good gents! I moved away from paper and focused on shooting bareshafts with fieldpoints out to 20 yrds. Cleaned up all my issues there then broadhead tuned to 50yrds.

Thank you for trying to help! Now I just need to work on my target panic when placing my pin on a deer :)
LOL! Glad you’re back and shooting straight. That target panic thing is a whole different bag bud!
 

· Socket Man
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One of the worst things you can do is mix Paper tuning with Point of impact tuning, I read through this two page thread and watched you fight with the paper tuning and in the end you threw it in the trash and ignored your arrow flight and you played around with your point of impact. This is a decision you can make and many people tune their bow this way, my suggestion down the road is to not ever shoot through paper because you are going to be disappointed.

Years ago I went through the same process of learning how to tune that you are going through right now. I did go in a different direction in the end than you but every person needs to go through this and find the best way for them to be confident in their tune.
 

· Socket Man
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I am a bare shaft paper tuner, I start at 3 or so feet and I work my way back to 20 yards getting better and better bullet holes. Once I get bullet holes with my bare shafts at 20 yards my arrow flight is perfect!!!!

Now for the cool part, my fletching only has one job to do now!! My fletching only has to stabilize perfection as the arrow goes on its way to the target, it doesn't have to correct or hide poor arrow flight at all because it doesn't exist. What this offers me is my bareshafts and fletched and broadheads always hit the same point of impact without any additional tuning needed.

How do I know that my bow doesn't need anymore tuning once I can shoot bullet holes out to 20 yards with bare shafts? Because for a couple years once I started doing this kind of tuning I would check my tune with fletched and broadheads etc and not one time did I need to fix anything.

The difference is guys who ignore arrow flight and they only do the point of impact thing are in a constant state of poor arrow flight where the fletching has to correct some form of kick or wobble and as they move things sooner or later they get kind of lucky and start seeing good point of impact between bare shafts or fletched and broadheads even though their arrow flight may still have issues.
 

· Socket Man
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By the way, do I shoot my fletched arrows through paper? Yes!

Why?

Because once I am getting bullet holes out to 20 yards I do shoot one or two fletched arrows through paper to confirm that I have no fletching contact, fletching contact is the only reason that your bulllet holes would be different once bare shafts are shooting bullet holes.

If you are getting a variety of tears that are totally different when shooting bare shafts your form or execution sucks.

If you are getting different tears between bare shafts and fletched then you have fletching contact.
 
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