[Padgett]

Bare shaft tears grow with distance, you can be seeing decent or near perfect bullet holes with bare shafts up at 3 to 8 feet and by the time you get to 10 yards there could be a 2 inch or bigger tear because the fake bullet hole at 3 feet was a lie. It was a 1/32 inch tear you didn't see and by the time you got to 10 yards it grew.

Now fletched arrows are exactly opposite, the biggest tears with fletched arrows will happen in the first 3 to 8 feet and by the time the arrow has traveled 10 or 20 yards depending on how poor the arrow flight is the fletching will correct it and start producing bullet holes.

If you have a 2 inch tear with bare shafts at 3 feet and then you have the brillant idea to shoot that bare shaft at 20 to 30 yards you will be snapping the arrow as it hits sideways because it only gets worse and never corrects.

 

[HeavyUser]

I am a bare shaft paper tuner, I start at 3 or so feet and I work my way back to 20 yards getting better and better bullet holes. Once I get bullet holes with my bare shafts at 20 yards my arrow flight is perfect!!!!

Now for the cool part, my fletching only has one job to do now!! My fletching only has to stabilize perfection as the arrow goes on its way to the target, it doesn't have to correct or hide poor arrow flight at all because it doesn't exist. What this offers me is my bareshafts and fletched and broadheads always hit the same point of impact without any additional tuning needed.

How do I know that my bow doesn't need anymore tuning once I can shoot bullet holes out to 20 yards with bare shafts? Because for a couple years once I started doing this kind of tuning I would check my tune with fletched and broadheads etc and not one time did I need to fix anything.

The difference is guys who ignore arrow flight and they only do the point of impact thing are in a constant state of poor arrow flight where the fletching has to correct some form of kick or wobble and as they move things sooner or later they get kind of lucky and start seeing good point of impact between bare shafts or fletched and broadheads even though their arrow flight may still have issues.

When you paper tune at 20yrds with your BS I'm assuming your target is raised? I'm not even sure I could paper tune at 20yrds. I use a bag target on the ground.

I didn't 100% give up on paper, I moved closer to about 3ft and when I was shooting bullet holes at 3ft I move to shooting the target.

 

[K_pell]

Hey Guys,

So my press finally came in, installed it last night and started putting it to work this morning. I'm shooting an RX7 Ultra at 71lbs, 29.5" draw length. Before I had access to a press I was shooting BH about 6 inches to the left of FP at 30yrds. When I would shoot through paper at around 9-10ft I was getting a high right tail tear. My centershot is 13/16ths, I would like to leave it that way if possible. I raised the arrow rest and I am pretty close to center now when shooting fletched through paper, tail is still a tad high as you can see from the picture. BUT when I shoot a bareshaft I am consistently hitting tail low.

My issue is my bareshafts are hitting tail low when my fletched are hitting tail high. The same thing occurs when I shim the cams. I get a bullet hole when shimmed hard right on both top and bottom BUT with fletched I am tail right...... Do I tune for bareshaft and forget the fletched?

New tuner at a loss on what to do.....


All my shots are consistent like this, I changed the paper so I could give you guys a clear picture instead of 30 holes.
View attachment 7709421

Forget about paper tuning, you can use it to get close. Then do walkback tuning, ive been shooting a bow for 50+ years, since i was about 2 ½ and this is what i show my customers to fine tune their bows when they pick them up. I can bust nocks off after walkback tuning. Not sure if you know what that is, look it up. If you can get your arrow shooting bullet holes when paper tuning, that is the best way to start. Go to five yards, put a piece of string vertically down your target. (I usually put a weight or something to hold it vertically)Use your top pin and try to hit the string. Adjust your sight(only left right) until you hit the string. Back up to 20 yards, shoot the string with the same pin. Now adjust your rest(left/right) until you hit the string. Go back and repeat the process until you can hit the string at both distances with the same pin. To fine tune even further, repeat this process at 10 and 40 yards. Then it is as simple as adjusting your pins up or down for your yardage.