Is my Bitzenburger out of date?
I've been using a rh helical Bitzenburger for as long as I can remember. The last aluminum shafts I used were 2213 and 2312 - the diameters were about .344" and .359".
My 3-49 ACCs are .277" in diameter and my latest 3-39 are .266". With 2" Rayzrs or 2" vanes, the maximum offset I can get is in the 2-3 degree range and still keep the entire quill or base in contact/flush with the shaft on the 3-49. It's even harder with the 3-39.
With 2" Rayzrs I have to leave an 1/8" gap of feather hanging below the clamp on the 3-49 and use a razor blade to push the front and rear of the quill down to make contact with the shaft. Is my Bitzenburger outdated and not really set up for the smaller diameter carbon shafts?
My 3-49 ACCs are .277" in diameter and my latest 3-39 are .266". With 2" Rayzrs or 2" vanes, the maximum offset I can get is in the 2-3 degree range and still keep the entire quill or base in contact/flush with the shaft on the 3-49. It's even harder with the 3-39.
With 2" Rayzrs I have to leave an 1/8" gap of feather hanging below the clamp on the 3-49 and use a razor blade to push the front and rear of the quill down to make contact with the shaft. Is my Bitzenburger outdated and not really set up for the smaller diameter carbon shafts?
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Helical fletching may be a good idea to control arrow flight on large shafts using broadheads but it's not necessary on smaller shafts used for target or 3D shooting. It may look cool but you get plenty of control with just an offset fletch and more speed too. As far as the fletch not contacting on both ends, that's a function of the shaft diameter and nothing else. The smaller the shaft, the less you can offset the fletch but it's kind of self correcting because you don't need as much with a skinny shaft. There's no way of knowing the angle of the fletch either and it really doesn't matter. Save yourself a lot of worry and just set up your jig with a straight clamp and get as much angle on the fletch as the shaft size will allow and they'll work fine. If the flight is lousy using this method, you need to set up your bow so that the arrow gets off to a better start and you don't have to use a lot of correction from the fletching.
The Zenith nock receiver will give you equal spacing around the shaft, which helps too.
Bitz is the best but it can be even better. With the upgrade nock receiver by Zenith you can do a flawless job with any arrow/vane combination. See the threads listed below and search for other comments from those who already have the upgrade. If you use a fast set glue it's not a time consuming job doing one vane at a time.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=584491&highlight=bitzenburger
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?p=7558477&posted=1#post7558477
Joe B.
http://www.zenitharchery.com/home.htm
Scroll down the page a bit and look for Zenith Bitzenburger Upgrade in bold red letters. The info is under that heading.
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Oh there is is. I think I was on an older web-page before??? Thanks JD.
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It's probably the skinny arrows, not the jig. I've got two Bitz fletching jigs and use a left-wing helical clamp on everything. One of my Bitzs is only a few years old and has the Zenith upgrade, works great. The other is at least 40 - 50 years old, without the upgrade, it works great too. I bought it in 1980 from a shop that had it for "at least 20 years" according to the owner. It's probably similar to your old one. While the new Zenith upgraded Bitz is great, I can't tell the difference between arrows fletched on the new vs. the old. The Zenith upgrade makes it harder to goof, but if you are careful you can get good results from either. I have the Zenith/Bitz set up for arrows using pin nocks, and use the old one for other arrows. Skinny arrows like Navigators...you just need to be careful and settle for a little less helical or ofset. With ACCs I can get plenty of helical with either of my Bitz jigs.
A helical clamp will help to keep the base on your skinny arrows. I like helical for everything, personal preference I guess.
A helical clamp will help to keep the base on your skinny arrows. I like helical for everything, personal preference I guess.
I use mini blazers and it helps the vanes sit on the arrow during the gluing process if you use helical rather than just a straight jig. You can't really see the helical effect on such short vanes just the offset but they sure lay on the arrow nice and uniform. blitz are kind of like a spothog sight they take a lot of time and tinkering to get them just right because they have the ultimate in fine tune options, but when you get it right there is nothing else out there that can compete.
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Just need to upgrade a bit, its the small diameter arrows giving you trouble, get the Zenith kit and you'll be good to go. 
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I bought my Bitzenberger jig with right helical clamp in 1975 and I've fletched all my arrows and arrows for many others all the way from 2419's to Easton axis 500's with no trouble at all.
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No pics...
This is probably a dumb question, but I'm assuming that the uni-bushing fits over the pin "thing," and that I'm fletching these without the nock on? Right? If this is true my uni-bushing doesn't sit all the way down the pin. Is that normal?
One more question, what's the purpose of the template and the adjustable plate up on the arm?
This is probably a dumb question, but I'm assuming that the uni-bushing fits over the pin "thing," and that I'm fletching these without the nock on? Right? If this is true my uni-bushing doesn't sit all the way down the pin. Is that normal?
One more question, what's the purpose of the template and the adjustable plate up on the arm?
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1) You are correct about the uni-bushing over the pin with no nock. The "pin" is actually slightly tapered so you get a good friction fit, thus you should not expect the uni-bushing to completely cover the pin.
2) The adjustable plate will help you keep the centerline of the arrow in line with the centerline of the receiver no matter what the diameter of the arrow. The standard Bitz works fine with "medium" diameter hunting arrows, but when you get to the extremes, like 27/64th fatties or skinny target arrows (I've done ACG's 0.223"), you need the adjustable the plate to keep everything lined up.
2) The adjustable plate will help you keep the centerline of the arrow in line with the centerline of the receiver no matter what the diameter of the arrow. The standard Bitz works fine with "medium" diameter hunting arrows, but when you get to the extremes, like 27/64th fatties or skinny target arrows (I've done ACG's 0.223"), you need the adjustable the plate to keep everything lined up.
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Good response MGB. Neither the Uni or Super Uni arrows will go all the way onto the insert. Push them on only enough to seat them so they won't turn. The pin nock arrow should be inserted all the way into the insert. It can be a tight fit but will loosen up with use.
Bitz is the best but it can be even better. With the upgrade nock receiver by Zenith you can do a flawless job with any arrow/vane combination. See the threads listed below and search for other comments from those who already have the upgrade. If you use a fast set glue it's not a time consuming job doing one vane at a time.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...t=bitzenburger
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showth...=1#post7558477
Joe B.
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