I don't shoot wood arrows because wood arrows eventually warp and I don't like to re-straighten them. I also don't shoot carbon because I don't like shooting pencil thin diameter carbon arrows. Also, at my long draw length and the light poundage bows I shoot, I don't think I could find the right spined carbon shaft in a long enough length to make a 32" BOP (back of point) carbon arrow.

I started out shooting aluminum arrows in 1964. Easy to tune, lots of different spines, easy to cut with a tube cutter, very straight and durable enough for me since I don't go stump shooting. I go roving instead which is perfect for me since I shoot a thin walled 2212 aluminum arrow for bowhunting.

 

I'm considering Easton Aluminum arrows. Are they what you use and what is your draw weight? If close to mine I might have some hint of where i want to go with the Aluminum arrow?

 

Carbons are either straight or broken, no in between. Make that straight or LOST, I've never broken one with trad equipment. Plus I like the fact that I can easly change the point weight to change the spine, so I can shoot the same arrow for different bows. My wood arrows are tuned to a specific bow. Speed is only a factor in penetration. (see signature regarding opinions, your mileage may vary.)

 

Always straight, spine & weight consistancy from one dozen to another, easy to tune with point weights, extreme durability, and easy to obtain if you go with a common brand/model

 

I assume you are refering to carbon arrows?

 

I shoot woodies and at the distance I shoot, 20 yards I don't have any difficulties
1. Hitting what I'm aiming at.
2. Doing it quietly.
3. Getting ample penetration in Deer sized game.
So why pay more for carbon.

 

i think if your going traditional then stay traditional.go with wood.more bragging rights lol.

 

Aluminum arrows are actually more traditional than fiberglass laminated bows

I shoot footed carbon because they last the longest (saving me money on shafts compared to aluminum) and are more consistent (saving me time sorting hardwood dowels into shafts and then making them into arrows). I used to only shoot hardwood dowel arrows, spined, weighed, tapered for balance, and then made into arrows. Compared to the cedars I shot before they lasted ten times longer and cost pennies by comparison, but it became such a hassle to match them sort and build a dozen arrows that I switched. I initially made the switch to aluminum because I hadn't yet mastered the longbow, and wanted consistency. After breaking a bunch of aluminums from my 85# selfbow, I went to carbons. I use them as a learning tool, and since I haven't yet gotten to the point where I'm as consistent as I want to be, I'm keeping variables out of it for now.

In terms of sheer ecomony, footed carbons are at the time, followed closely by hardwood dowels and aluminums. Cedars are at the bottom of the list for me, for no other reason than being so fragile compared to the other shaft types.

 

Rembrandt, I got carbon arrows with my new Sage......the first ones I've ever shot.....and they surely are nice. Shoot really well. I got the Gold Tip 3555s. BUT, like Night Wing, I need a longer arrow. I can shoot these 30" arrows but would really like to have a 31" for my draw. I've been thinking about buying some wood shafts and giving those a try too. Haven't shot any wooden arrows in decades but these carbon arrows sure are nice.

Drew

 

I'm headed for Champions Archery asap and I'm thinking of getting those very arrows from him. I called him yesterday and he said he had them on hand so I'll probably get 6 of them and try them out. He might give me a couple, knowing him just to try. He is a great guy to deal with.

 

Well, it sure isn't the speed that keeps me from shooting them,, but really I find they just plain suck, I've tried bunches of them and from different makers including myself too...now some suck less, and others more, but to each his own, they are really nice when done well, now I do have some that shoot really good, but i'm afraid to shoot them very much at all........

 

Never heard of Port Oxford Cedar but made hundreds from Port Orford Cedar ...

 

I use both carbons and aluminums at the moment. I think aluminums are a little more forgiving, and I like their weight. They appear to be a little less rugged than carbons in some cirucumstances, but they're also cheaper (for the most part). I haven't used wood because I haven't wanted to spend the additional money on the various doo-dads you apparently need to straighten, taper, and glue points/nocks on. The ability to quickly change points on the modern arrow types is also hard to give up. I may fall prey to the urge to get some wood arrows, but honestly, with the existence of Easton Gamegetters, which are so much arrow for the money, it's a little tough to want to keep experimenting.

Cheers,

Patrick

 

Patrick, only doo-dads you really need to MAKE wooden arrows is an inexpensive pencil-sharpener style taper tool.

Lots of folks like to go all out, but my brother and I have made some pretty nice arrows with a heck of a lot less. It's a shame I broke them all:zip:.

 

Kegan,

How do you go about straightening them and sorting them by spine, if you start with dowels? Just classify 'em as "bendy" and "less bendy?"

Patrick

 

I striaghten them by hand, some harder woods are straightenned over a candle. I've never gotten into the idea of using straightenners having strated with primitive arrows from shoots. As for spining them, I built a simple spine tester (there are how-tos online, I don't remember the exact site though). It cost me $1 for a protactor, the rest was just scraps of pine and sand in a water bottle for the two-pound weight. Worked like a charm!

Only other thing is to watch for knots and grain run offs. Those are signs of "culls".

 

Kegan,

Thanks! I'll have to give it a go again this summer.

Patrick

 

The Sage you have has a DW of 44lbs.....was it a 40lb bow or a 45lb bow? I think I should have gotten a 40lb and worked up instead of the 45lb and having to come down. I really had no idea what weight to buy cause I use to shoot a 45lb bow all the time. Its easy to pull back but at the anchor I feel the pressure....I hope I can overcome the DW in short order or I'll be buying lesser limbs in about a month!

 

i shoot cedars from a 30# sage. they were given to me by a retired trad shooter who also shot a 30# bow. fly beautifully, like they were made for this bow.
at easter i will try my first trad shoot (timber arrows only rules) as i usually shoot 3d barebow compound with carbons in competition.

 

I dont shoot carbons out of my trad bows... In the SCA we are only allowed to shoot woodies, but even at our traditional classic I still shoot wood arrows. There is no real reason not too. They are a bit more heavy than carbon but so much fun to make and shoot!

 

Of course not... it is strictly to support the American Economy... What... at $5 to $8 a shaft versus say.. my maybe $2.50 complete at a worst case...

I build arrows now ONLY with wood... Making them is therapy, so there is medical advantage to boot.

Aloha :beer:

 

Speed could be the reason for some/much of the reasoning…but my thinking would probably lean more towards issues of higher maintenance and an overall lack of familiarity. Also, consistency in shaft material doesn’t generally work in wood’s favor from the-get go. Getting very closely matched material is possible but is the product of much sorting…and the future availability of more of the same can become problematic. Anyhow, for any given spine, the same species of wood will have a range of physical weights…thus a lighter/faster end of the spectrum exists, as does the heavyweight dog at the other end.

Speed is kinda a subject in itself…that also speaks directly to the potential of any given bow. In the past, I used to keep bow/arrow combinations around that optimized speed potential, were very squirrelly and unforgiving, but that’s precisely what I wanted from them…the challenge/discipline to shoot something that would “exaggerate” every flaw, instead of forgive/hide them. But aside from that, I consider speed just another factor in a practical/usable/optimum relationship between bow/arrow/shooter that’s suitable to my purpose…and function harmoniously. This doesn’t mean that anyone else will be as happy shooting my arrangements, or that I can’t press any envelope further…but it works for me.

As a bowhunter, I never feel any handicap when I’m shooting wood, but they also used to be the only option for target shooters…and proved up to the task. Not everyone can make a fine wooden arrow. Not everyone can maintain their straightness…and not everyone can tell the difference from one to the next…but that’s not the arrows’ fault. Enjoy, Rick.

 

Straightening wood arrows if they aren't wet isn't all that difficult once you learn what works... I've learned to use heat to help me with stubborn bends and curves and now I've got a heat gun to help me... and it works... but I've co-opted my missuses iron as well in my experiments as I have steam.... not the best choice for unfinished wood.... sadly... :grin:

As for straightness mattering, I'm not a target shooter. I'm a "plinker, rover, and ball and bucket" shooter and am happy with arrows not entirely straight along its length as long as it seems the nose and tail are aligned.

Aloha... :beer:

 

i shoot both. like both for different reasons. will probably continue to shoot both.