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Discussion Starter #1
I have a crx 32. Well it order to get my top cam perfectly parallel with my string at full draw(on a draw board) I have to put a decent amount of lean on the top cam when the bow is at rest. is this ok to do?? It seems to shoot through paper better this way also
 

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Should not be a problem at all. Every bow is different and no 2 bows will set up the exact same.
 

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sometimes reality hurts
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less of an issue than lean at full draw - the string will settle into a leaning cam better at brace than it will at anchor.

it's not ideal though, you might find a more optimal match of limbs by swapping them around. short bows are never as easy to tune but one limb may be a bit lazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well the problem is that the bottom cam at full draw leans towards the shelf side of the bow. I thought it was missing a spacer but i checked with my local shop and all the spacers are there. Does it mater which limbs are on top and which are on bottom?? i mean if I swap the bottom limb for a top one, now I'll just move my problem to the top?? If i lay an arrow on the cam at rest and run it down the string, it is completely on the other side of the string at the nock point, yet at full draw on my board, it is dead level. Now on my Bottom cam, at rest the cam is level and at full draw leans....what does this sound like to you guys>>>??
 

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Socket Man
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I wonder if anyone has ever tuned a bow where it had the least amount of lean at rest and full draw, basically a average of the two. It seems like to me if you tune it to no cam lean at rest or at full draw you are allowing it to do what ever it wants at the other extreme. If you were to tune the bow where it had the least amount of lean in both extremes it might be even better. I know that right now it is more popular to get rid of cam lean at full draw than at rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i just got off the phone with hoyt. They said its ok to put positive cam lean to achieve a tune. And I was concerned about the axle to axle being only 31.5 inches and it turns out that with the #2 cam, it should be 31 5/8" A2A. So Im all good there. And the brace height on a #2 cam should be 6 7/8".

Basically what I did with this bow was set the rest center at 13/16th's and used the TL1 launcher with knock 2/8" high. Arrow crosses over the top half of the berger hole. I then went to paper with a bareshaft and instead of moving the rest, I would just add or remove twists from the right side yoke cable until I got a nice tear. I checked the tear at 6 feet, 12 feet and then again at 18 feet. I got a nice tear through all. I then tried with a fletched and same good results. Just got inside from trying bare shafts to 30 yards and they hit right there with fletched shafts. I will be doing this process of tuning again for sure!
 

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I wonder if anyone has ever tuned a bow where it had the least amount of lean at rest and full draw, basically a average of the two. It seems like to me if you tune it to no cam lean at rest or at full draw you are allowing it to do what ever it wants at the other extreme. If you were to tune the bow where it had the least amount of lean in both extremes it might be even better. I know that right now it is more popular to get rid of cam lean at full draw than at rest.
I have done this before. I have also tuned to no cam lean at full draw, and no cam lean at rest. Whichever one seems to give me the best arrow flight with the rest 13/16" out from the arrow shelf, without getting too radical.
 

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I don't know about this one....cam lean causes limb twist. Limb twist causes cracked limbs....the bow spends most of its life time at rest not at full draw. I think this would cause unneeded stress on the limbs. If you are that concerned about cam lean I would had put a tilt tamer or something on....

I don't like cam lean at brace.......jmo
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Me either, but if its not leaning then its not getting the level nock travel Im looking for... If it was up to me I would love for the cams not to lean at full draw or rest...
 
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