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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there, I don't have good access to a bow shop anymore and recently purchased a new set of strings for my Martin Cheetah 2009 with M2 cams. I watched Drave's method of replacing strings using an Allen wrench to hold the cam while replacing either string or cable. I understand this is probably not the best way to work on a bow but I'm not prepared to go to a shop I've never had experience with and that is 60+ miles away. I replaced the cable and it now seems very tight and even harder to pull back. There are few twists in cable itself.. First time replacing a string/cable, what's causing the tension and how can it be relieved?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
 

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Hey there, I don't have good access to a bow shop anymore and recently purchased a new set of strings for my Martin Cheetah 2009 with M2 cams. I watched Drave's method of replacing strings using an Allen wrench to hold the cam while replacing either string or cable. I understand this is probably not the best way to work on a bow but I'm not prepared to go to a shop I've never had experience with and that is 60+ miles away. I replaced the cable and it now seems very tight and even harder to pull back. There are few twists in cable itself.. First time replacing a string/cable, what's causing the tension and how can it be relieved?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
Take a picture, both sides of the top cam.
Take a picture, both sides of the bottom cam.

BULID the $20 pipe clamp bow press.
 

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Hey there, I don't have good access to a bow shop anymore and recently purchased a new set of strings for my Martin Cheetah 2009 with M2 cams. I watched Drave's method of replacing strings using an Allen wrench to hold the cam while replacing either string or cable. I understand this is probably not the best way to work on a bow but I'm not prepared to go to a shop I've never had experience with and that is 60+ miles away. I replaced the cable and it now seems very tight and even harder to pull back. There are few twists in cable itself.. First time replacing a string/cable, what's causing the tension and how can it be relieved?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
martin factory strings are at best average quality, often less,,,, so your factory string and cable are more than likely stretched, so even if the string I installed correctly there is a high probability they could feel harder to pull, secondly, you can remove and replace the strings on the cheetah by simply backing out the limb bolts until the strings go limp, yes it is safe but not on most other bows,, with the limb bolts even you can take turns letting out the bolts about 2 turns at a time on both ends, it is easy and requires no press,, I do suggest leaving just a little tension on the old strings so that they need to be "rolled" off with just a tiny amount of pressure,, because if they are too lose when you put the new strings on and they remain "limp" and not under any tension they will most often simply fall out of the grooves as you tighten the bolts back up
 

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IMHO make the trip to use a press, it's cheaper incase something should go wrong and you blow up the bow. As far as the pipe clamp press-----IMHO that is an accident waiting to happen.
Now to your problem---sounds to me like you have something routed incorrectly and or you have the wrong cable. How are the specs? Is the poundage where you started, is the axle to axle and brace close???
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ATA is spot on, perhaps the old stock strings had stretched because before replacing the cable I was at 30 1/8" ATA and I'm sitting with a perfect 30" now. I haven't yet put the string on, only the cable. Checked Martin and I've routed the cable correctly. Bought this bow used and wondering if string had stretched and poundage was maxed out. I can take some pictures later on if that helps any.

Thanks,
Mike
 

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Why in the H--- would you change the cables & not the string, must love to look for problems, Did you put it on a scale to see what the # was??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Why in the H--- would you change the cables & not the string, must love to look for problems, Did you put it on a scale to see what the # was??
I'm replacing the string aswell... I have only changed the cable so far and it seemed much tighter than when I started. I don't know if this is common. First time replacing them myself. I'll put the string on and report back. May just need to be tuned. Sorry for the muddy waters.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You may have went the wrong direction on the cam with the cables
I'll do it again to make sure, worst case I might just have to bring it in. We will see.

Thanks,
Mike
 

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The moving part of the PIPE clamp press,
the part that is attached to the CRANK end of the pipe clamp press...

a) you can do the slider pipe over the LONG backbone pipe (3/4-inch black gas pipe)....(SLIDER pipe is on the right side)






THIS is the DOUBLE THICK 2x4 version,
for folks worried that a 2x4 (single thickness) is NOT STRONG enough...




CLOSEUP photo of the SLIDER pipe over the BACK BONE 3/4-inch pipe...

wax the long backbone pipe
and the SLIDER pipe will glide more easily over the BACK BONE pipe.
 

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THIS is the L BRACKET version,
if you have difficulty finding a SLIDER PIPE.



The horizontal arm of the L bracket
is what allows the WOODEN (HARDWOOD) finger to slide on the backbone pipe.

USE OAK,
and double or triple the thickness, if you like.




You can use HEAVIER L brackets, to satisfy any concerns
about the strength of the L bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Awesome info, thanks!! I got the string on, looks like I routed it wrong but it's now good to go. Adjusting it to specs currently and will get some shoot-in time this weekend. Thank you all.

Mike
 
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