Long story short I had an issue with my software after doing a system restore and had to contact Larry from Pinwheel Software. He (as always) was very helpful. After helping me out, he wanted to spend a couple of extra minutes asking me a few questions about the software (kind of like an informal survey). I told him I loved the software. He went on to explain a new feature he added. On the equipment screen where it shows the cam type, there is a drop down menu where you can change it to your liking. At the very bottom of the menu was a "Use Manufacturer IBO". He wanted to know if I have used it and how I liked it. I told him I never heard of it before. So far it seems to be very accurate with spining out my arrows, at least based off of my bareshaft tuning results. He also asked if I would be interested in a smartphone app. I told him I would love one for my iPhone. Anyways I thought we could start a thread telling Larry about what we like about the software and some possible things we might like to add. Wahbt say you?
vnhill1981
I phone app would be cool, maybe use the inclinometer in the phone with the cut chart in the program to give you the proper cut and maybe something where you could have your bow in there and say of the 3d range you put a good shot on target and miss 4" high, then you input that 4" hight and it tells you how far you missed the range on the animal.
iphone AND android app would be cool
android would be easier since apple doesn't have to approve it. Or you could just jailbreak the iphone.
android would be easier since apple doesn't have to approve it. Or you could just jailbreak the iphone.
Last night was the first time i used the software and i must admit it is pretty freaking cool and very helpful.
I really like the software. I've been using the cam setting, my only question is by default it shows the hoyt vantage elite as a 1 cam hard bow, but do I need to change this to 2 cam Hard? Other than that I really like using the program for spine results and sight tapes. Makes it easy to try different scenarios and see what's best for the bow.
i used the software a while back and it's the reason i shoot the arrows i do now, easton axis ST. an Iphone app would be great. the developers would have to make sure it stayed updated. im guessing the app would be about $25. there would be a lot of unhappy people if it was not updated. that price is based off similar software i used when i was a sniper in the corps.
the day he releases a mac version and an app i would be all over it.
an app would be really cool as you could have it in your pocket.
would love to be a beta tester if it ever happens.
an app would be really cool as you could have it in your pocket.
would love to be a beta tester if it ever happens.
Every time I use it I figure something else new to me. Im playing with tape fonts and colors now. Im gonna have to try the ibo chart. And an android app would be so sweet, id be on my phone even more
>>by default it shows the hoyt vantage elite as a 1 cam hard bow, but do I need to change this to 2 cam Hard?
When you apply a bow from the DB, OT2 set the camstyle for you. Hybrids and Cam&1/2 are considered 1Cams...because they are technically a slaved single cam..true 2cam have split cables on both ends and 2 identical top and bottom cams. If you use the "Use Mfg IBO", you don't need to worry about the "cam style".
>>But it would be nice if the program would remember your last settings.
OT2 will remember your settings..just save in a user record..select and reload manually after you re-start the program.
There's also a menu setting..File>Default Config At Startup..that is "checked" by default. Un-check and OT2 will reload the last used/worked on stuff. A safeguard is that if you manage to "save bad data" as the last used stuff the program can hiccup and just reload the default as a fall-back on error.
>>It needs to be available for MACs!
It's available... ;-) You just have to send an e-mail to get the download link...at least until I get the website updated. Put "SFA for MacOS" in the e-mial Subject line.
>>I would like it to make accurate spot hogg dial site tapes.
It does. Just select the SPotHogg sight from the DB and click Apply. You'll also not to calculate a velocity from a couple marks..30 and 50 or 30 and 60..usually give good results. 20yds is too easy to fudge. After you get the velocity calculated, export "^" to send it to the MySetup and Make Marks tabs.
If you use a chronograph or the OT2 calculation from the Mfg's IBO, those are "estimates", because the IBO might be puffery and the chrono reading might not be the same as the chrono used to calibrate the program. If you don't use the velocity from marks method, then gettin a velocity tha's close and Gang printing tapes is another method..
Sight in at 30, 50 and transfer the marks to a Post-it note...you can cut the 1/2" of Post-it "sticky" and wrap it on the SH Dial (or other sight frame). Use a chrono reading for a Manual Velocity or let the program estimate a velocity from your setup's IBO for a "base velocity". Click to the Print Setup tab. In the upper right corner is the Setup Tape Spread frame. Check the enable tape spread option. Change Up Step and Down Step to 0.5. Change Up Max and Down Max to 10. Click Create Spread. After the program is finished calculating you'll have 20 tapes in 0.5fps increments 10 above your base velocity and 10 below. You should be able to find a tape that is fairly close to the marks on the Post-it.
When you apply a bow from the DB, OT2 set the camstyle for you. Hybrids and Cam&1/2 are considered 1Cams...because they are technically a slaved single cam..true 2cam have split cables on both ends and 2 identical top and bottom cams. If you use the "Use Mfg IBO", you don't need to worry about the "cam style".
>>But it would be nice if the program would remember your last settings.
OT2 will remember your settings..just save in a user record..select and reload manually after you re-start the program.
There's also a menu setting..File>Default Config At Startup..that is "checked" by default. Un-check and OT2 will reload the last used/worked on stuff. A safeguard is that if you manage to "save bad data" as the last used stuff the program can hiccup and just reload the default as a fall-back on error.
>>It needs to be available for MACs!
It's available... ;-) You just have to send an e-mail to get the download link...at least until I get the website updated. Put "SFA for MacOS" in the e-mial Subject line.
>>I would like it to make accurate spot hogg dial site tapes.
It does. Just select the SPotHogg sight from the DB and click Apply. You'll also not to calculate a velocity from a couple marks..30 and 50 or 30 and 60..usually give good results. 20yds is too easy to fudge. After you get the velocity calculated, export "^" to send it to the MySetup and Make Marks tabs.
If you use a chronograph or the OT2 calculation from the Mfg's IBO, those are "estimates", because the IBO might be puffery and the chrono reading might not be the same as the chrono used to calibrate the program. If you don't use the velocity from marks method, then gettin a velocity tha's close and Gang printing tapes is another method..
Sight in at 30, 50 and transfer the marks to a Post-it note...you can cut the 1/2" of Post-it "sticky" and wrap it on the SH Dial (or other sight frame). Use a chrono reading for a Manual Velocity or let the program estimate a velocity from your setup's IBO for a "base velocity". Click to the Print Setup tab. In the upper right corner is the Setup Tape Spread frame. Check the enable tape spread option. Change Up Step and Down Step to 0.5. Change Up Max and Down Max to 10. Click Create Spread. After the program is finished calculating you'll have 20 tapes in 0.5fps increments 10 above your base velocity and 10 below. You should be able to find a tape that is fairly close to the marks on the Post-it.
I have had your shaft selector program for a while now. My only question is, what is more accurate to use, The "Use Manufacturers IBO", or the appropriate "cam style". These give two different recomendations as to what my spine should be. Second if one is better than the other why don't you just do away with theother. I know many people get "confused" as to what their cam style is, but that is why when you select your bow the program does it for you.
>>what is more accurate to use, The "Use Manufacturers IBO", or the appropriate "cam style".
Both are "accurate"...cam style being more granular and Mfg IBO being more exact. Example...a bow's IBO is 333. This puts it in the lower 1/3 of the XHard range for cam style. The Xhard range is 321-360+. The cam style method has to work over the entire 40fps range, so it will be biased toward the mid-range of 340fps. The further the IBO is from the mid-point, the more of a difference you'll see. Usually the diff between the 2 methods will be ~0.010 or less.
>>Second if one is better than the other why don't you just do away with theother.
Eventually, the cam style option will be phased out in the Windows version. The Mac version doesn't have a cam style option..just Mfg IBO. If I just sprung the new Mfg IBO method on people and it were the only option, they'd probably raise hedoublehockeysticks. Better to phase in over time or just leave the "old" method for people that don't want to switch...similar to the Liston/Siacci methods for the program's ballistic calculation.
>>I know many people get "confused" as to what their cam style is
Yep. A lot of people "apply" from the database then think their "hybrid cam" is a 2cam instead of a 1cam..then change the setting to 2cam...even though there's a pretty good description on "Cam Style" in the User Guide. Over-riding the program's cam style suggestion from 1cam to 2cam will result in an "optimal spine" that will be stiffer than they need.
Both are "accurate"...cam style being more granular and Mfg IBO being more exact. Example...a bow's IBO is 333. This puts it in the lower 1/3 of the XHard range for cam style. The Xhard range is 321-360+. The cam style method has to work over the entire 40fps range, so it will be biased toward the mid-range of 340fps. The further the IBO is from the mid-point, the more of a difference you'll see. Usually the diff between the 2 methods will be ~0.010 or less.
>>Second if one is better than the other why don't you just do away with theother.
Eventually, the cam style option will be phased out in the Windows version. The Mac version doesn't have a cam style option..just Mfg IBO. If I just sprung the new Mfg IBO method on people and it were the only option, they'd probably raise hedoublehockeysticks. Better to phase in over time or just leave the "old" method for people that don't want to switch...similar to the Liston/Siacci methods for the program's ballistic calculation.
>>I know many people get "confused" as to what their cam style is
Yep. A lot of people "apply" from the database then think their "hybrid cam" is a 2cam instead of a 1cam..then change the setting to 2cam...even though there's a pretty good description on "Cam Style" in the User Guide. Over-riding the program's cam style suggestion from 1cam to 2cam will result in an "optimal spine" that will be stiffer than they need.
I would like to be able to input more of my marks on my curve to calculate a more accurate tape. If I do 10-20 and 3-60 my tapes at 80 yds are not very accurate. Let me input a scaled distance using a caliper and a mark. say 20 -40 = 0.564" 40-60 = 0.760" or whatever. A combo of marks and scale would be nice for those long range marks say 100yds plus.
I've been using your software for a few years now and I just want to thank you! You've saved myself, my friends and countless others LOTS of money in buying the wrong arrows and having to start over! Will either cam style or manufacturer's ibo be more accurate if you have the program calibrated to your own chrono speeds, pin gap, arrow drop, etc?
Bearlee,
>>If I do 10-20 and 3-60 my tapes at 80 yds are not very accurate.
Using a 10-25 yard marks as the first mark or pin is problematic. You can be off by multiple clicks at short distances. At 30yd, you can see the impact difference of 1 click. Your 1st mark is your "anchor"...if it's "off" even a couple clicks it will skew your results. I find using a 30 & 60, or 30,50,80 give me the best results.
>>Let me input a scaled distance using a caliper and a mark. say 20 -40 = 0.564" 40-60 = 0.760" or whatever.
If you use the PinGap Method to determine velocity on the Calibration Tab...I think that's what you are describing? Enter 2 distances for 2 "pins" (marks can be pins, too), take the measurement between the pins (or marks)..the "pin gap"...and let the program crunch the numbers.
>>A combo of marks and scale would be nice for those long range marks say 100yds plus.
You mean out past 120yds? The Mark Reference Chart goes from ~3-120yds.
Spurlucky,
>>Carbon Express Predator 2000s
I'll look for these...might be made prior to 2002..if they aren't in the DB.
>>If I do 10-20 and 3-60 my tapes at 80 yds are not very accurate.
Using a 10-25 yard marks as the first mark or pin is problematic. You can be off by multiple clicks at short distances. At 30yd, you can see the impact difference of 1 click. Your 1st mark is your "anchor"...if it's "off" even a couple clicks it will skew your results. I find using a 30 & 60, or 30,50,80 give me the best results.
>>Let me input a scaled distance using a caliper and a mark. say 20 -40 = 0.564" 40-60 = 0.760" or whatever.
If you use the PinGap Method to determine velocity on the Calibration Tab...I think that's what you are describing? Enter 2 distances for 2 "pins" (marks can be pins, too), take the measurement between the pins (or marks)..the "pin gap"...and let the program crunch the numbers.
>>A combo of marks and scale would be nice for those long range marks say 100yds plus.
You mean out past 120yds? The Mark Reference Chart goes from ~3-120yds.
Spurlucky,
>>Carbon Express Predator 2000s
I'll look for these...might be made prior to 2002..if they aren't in the DB.
like the other guys I agree it would be great if it was available for MAC, I downloaded the demo on my work computer and would buy it in a heartbeat if I could get a mac version
I guess my problem is I am using a sight that does not have vertical clicks.
I am using an HHA dial sight and a CBE Tek Hunter. They just rotate, no clicks, I shoot and get my marks but do not have a great way to make the tape from there. Is it all based strictly on velocity?
I am using an HHA dial sight and a CBE Tek Hunter. They just rotate, no clicks, I shoot and get my marks but do not have a great way to make the tape from there. Is it all based strictly on velocity?
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