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Discussion Starter #1
So my first compound bow was 70# back in like 1996. My second compound bow I bought was in 2006 and it was 60# and LOVED it, I could shoot all day, I took it to work and shot on breaks or while waiting on clients and had days where I shots 400-500 arrows.

I bought a dealer demo Mathews TX-5 the day they hit the shelves. It was 70#, I shot 3d season and the TAC with it last year at 70# but brought it back down to 60# for hunting, I shot it around 60# so well, but I liked the DL better at 70# so I ended up ordering 60# limbs to tighten up the DL and hunting with that setup and some 575 gr. arrows last year.

When the VXR came out this year, I loved the shop demo so I ordered one with 70# and 60# mods. I picked it up withe the 70# mods installed, set it up for 3D built arrows, shot, tuned, separated a rib shooting it, rehabbed, kept shooting... all the events I was planning on got corona-cancelled, and I never got the bow as good as I thought it could be. I was seriously contemplating putting it in the classifieds, and I thought, hell why not play with it some more first.

So today I put on the 60# mods, twisted some cables to get the ATA in spec, and the cams hitting together, pulled off the big complicated MBG target sight with Shrewd scope and lights, lenses, blah blah blah, slapped on the trusty Spott Hogg Hogg Father (at least the 4th bow that sight has been on), built up some Victory RIP XV 350 shafts I had laying around.

took it out and WOW... this thing is a different bow at 61.5#. draw is much more controlled, hold is steadier, in my first group at 20 I tore up a Blazer vane.

I did little barehsaft tuning and a slight rest adjustment down to fix a nock low bareshaft. And its stacking bareshafts with fletched at 20.

I think this bow might have a permanent home at 60#

I have no idea why I keep going back to 70#. I'm a small person, 38, very active and fit, but weigh about 160 wearing a sweatsuit in the rain...

Moral of the story:

Don't get caught up in the numbers/ calculators. Just because I can physically make something happen doesn't mean it is going to give me the best results... on the 3d course, accuracy trumps speed. In the deer woods a few fps don't matter and a few foot pounds of KE don't matter, (my Texas deer are small) and I can usually get more FOC by using the same shafts I would at 70 and loading the front.

Current Bow setup is:

Mathews VXR 31.5
Spott Hogg Hogg Father 2 pin sight
Ripcord Lok limbdriven rest
12" flatline stabilizer with 1 oz. out front
8" flatline stabilizer with 4 oz. out back
27" 85% 60# mods

Current arrow setup is:

Victory RIP XV Gamer 350 27.5"
21 gr victory halfoutsert
125gr. point
3x Blazer Vanes left helical
27" Mods measured DL about 27 3/8"
~350 gr. TAW
~290 fps
KE 67.88
MO .461
FOC 16.5%

Pretty sure I can get this setup to hit a paper plate 5 consistently (5 out of 5 times repeatable is my definition of consistently) out to 70 yards (my backyard range).

If I decide to take this one hunting I will probably go up in spine to use my 150-200 gr. single bevel broad heads also I can add weight to the back of the halfouts if necessary (I have lots of the Black Eagle brass insert weights that will thread into the victory halfouts, even though I prefer the Easton HIT system)

This is at least the third time I've had to learn this lesson, I'm just glad I learned it before losing money on a sale and again when buying another bow!!! I am gonna get the sight tape dialed in next.

Hopefully someone reading this will not repeat my mistake... and hopefully by writing it, I will be less likely to repeat it as well!!!

3,383 Posts
I’ve finally convinced myself that I don’t much care for 70 pound bows either. 65 pound limbs seem to be a sweet spot for me. Amazing how much difference just 5 pounds of draw weight makes in the comfort of shooting a lot of arrows in a session.
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