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Pse Mach 1
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Discussion Starter #1
Hunting setup which I like to tune early so in not play with it so close to season (which I usually do like a idiot anyway)

so question is for a bow I will be hunting with and shooting broadhead

woukd y’all leave it or adjust to clean it up even more?
7375127
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’d bareshaft tune, and go from there.
Paper is just the start of tuning.
Bareshaft is fine tuning.
I usually go from paper get it close to broadhead tune but I’ll def throw in a bareshaft the only issue is still waiting on my new sight to come in lol. Dam you lancaster
 

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What Spike said. I personally don’t even bother with paper anymore. I do a basic setup of the bow- time and synch the cams, confirm that DL and DW are in spec, set center shot and nock height, and then go straight to shooting bare shafts. Paper “tuning” with fletched arrows isn’t anything more than a basic starting setup of the bow in my opinion. Anytime I’ve tuned for perfect bare shaft flight to at least 20 yards, fixed blade broadhead flight has always been good.
 

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What Spike said. I personally don’t even bother with paper anymore. I do a basic setup of the bow- time and synch the cams, confirm that DL and DW are in spec, set center shot and nock height, and then go straight to shooting bare shafts. Paper “tuning” with fletched arrows isn’t anything more than a basic starting setup of the bow in my opinion. Anytime I’ve tuned for perfect bare shaft flight to at least 20 yards, fixed blade broadhead flight has always been good.
Sounds like a plan to me! I’ve always skimmed passed bareshaft tuning but I will dig into it deeper this round especially since I’m starting early
 

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What Spike said. I personally don’t even bother with paper anymore. I do a basic setup of the bow- time and synch the cams, confirm that DL and DW are in spec, set center shot and nock height, and then go straight to shooting bare shafts. Paper “tuning” with fletched arrows isn’t anything more than a basic starting setup of the bow in my opinion. Anytime I’ve tuned for perfect bare shaft flight to at least 20 yards, fixed blade broadhead flight has always been good.
This is my process as well. There are times when a BS setup is really finicky and a fletched arrow with a fixed head will help determine form from tuning, but most of the time a consistent shooter will be able to confirm tuning with a BS. That is clearly for a hunting rig. Robspartacus posted an interesting thread a little while back about line tuning a target rig at distance and getting better groups, but that is somewhat a different kettle of fish than a dedicated bowhunting rig.
 

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The Impartial Archer
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Like others have said that means nothing really. What's that FT & BH look like a 40 yards? That's what I would go with. BS can do that but IMHO it's so effected by other things I don't really do that either.

If you hunt and you use a fixed head just go to the well and broad head tune because that's what you will use to verify the POI anyway so just cut to the chase.
 

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Like others have said that means nothing really. What's that FT & BH look like a 40 yards? That's what I would go with. BS can do that but IMHO it's so effected by other things I don't really do that either.

If you hunt and you use a fixed head just go to the well and broad head tune because that's what you will use to verify the POI anyway so just cut to the chase.
that is up in the air still on either rage trypan nc once I test it or iron will wide
 

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The Impartial Archer
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This is my process as well. There are times when a BS setup is really finicky and a fletched arrow with a fixed head will help determine form from tuning, but most of the time a consistent shooter will be able to confirm tuning with a BS. That is clearly for a hunting rig. Robspartacus posted an interesting thread a little while back about line tuning a target rig at distance and getting better groups, but that is somewhat a different kettle of fish than a dedicated bowhunting rig.
That's my take as well. If you shoot target you don't used a fixed broad head so the tuning process is not a good one. If you hunt and especially hunt with a fixed head (IMO) getting the POI of the field point and the broad head is by far the best method. That way you can practice through out the year with FT's and then just go hunt and have the same POI.

If you get the FT & BH to have the same poi from 5 - your max hunting distance then trust me that bow is tuned well.
 

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The Impartial Archer
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that is up in the air still on either rage trypan nc once I test it or iron will wide
What? I don't understand what you are saying. The rage Trypan isn't a fixed head if I follow. You can be out of tune and still get a mechanical to have the same POI....that's one reason they are so popular.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What? I don't understand what you are saying. The rage Trypan isn't a fixed head if I follow. You can be out of tune and still get a mechanical to have the same POI....that's one reason they are so popular.
I was just saying still deciding on what head after u wrote about fixed that’s all. I think build the most forgiving setup is ideal especially when a slammer walks out and you go full stupid.
 

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shoot that arrow thru the paper with no fletches and see how it looks.make small adjustment until bullet hole,then shoot the bare with fletched at 15 yards get them flying good
 

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I would Say you have a good starting point.. now Broad head tune with a fixed blade Head.. get it to hit same poi with the field point. If you do decide to use a mechanical you would still be in good shape.
 

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Paper tuning is just an early tuning step to get close like you are. I do not BS tune. I use a walk back tune, then broadhead tune, which usually requires a very small adjustment if any. I've shot the Steel Force 4 blade out of all my bows for the past few years and most people won't even try them because they think longer heads are harder to tune for a compound. After I have my bow/arrow tuned with a broadhead I'll often shoot a bs out of curiosity and it's usually not looking good.
 

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Like others have said that means nothing really. What's that FT & BH look like a 40 yards? That's what I would go with. BS can do that but IMHO it's so effected by other things I don't really do that either.

If you hunt and you use a fixed head just go to the well and broad head tune because that's what you will use to verify the POI anyway so just cut to the chase.

I’m sure whatever method you use works well, but BS tuning is cutting to the chase.
No need to tear up a target with blades.
Make adjustments to BS flight, get shafts slapping at 20 with identical entry angle and the chase is over.

OP- I don’t think it’s been said yet, but if possible shoot into a foam target at shoulder height when you’re ready to give BS tuning a go.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I’m sure whatever method you use works well, but BS tuning is cutting to the chase.
No need to tear up a target with blades.
Make adjustments to BS flight, get shafts slapping at 20 with identical entry angle and the chase is over.

OP- I don’t think it’s been said yet, but if possible shoot into a foam target at shoulder height when you’re ready to give BS tuning a go.
[/QUOTE

yes sir def can
 

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I’m sure whatever method you use works well, but BS tuning is cutting to the chase.
No need to tear up a target with blades.
Make adjustments to BS flight, get shafts slapping at 20 with identical entry angle and the chase is over.

OP- I don’t think it’s been said yet, but if possible shoot into a foam target at shoulder height when you’re ready to give BS tuning a go.
^^^This. I have no problem with broadhead tuning as anyone's method, as it works fine. But its not nearly precise as shooting a bareshaft, since fletching can still mask bad flight even with a broadhead. So while they may hit together OK, it doesn't mean the bow is tuned as well as it could be. A bareshaft won't lie. Shoot the bareshaft. Then final check with broadheads to make sure you're good.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
^^^This. I have no problem with broadhead tuning as anyone's method, as it works fine. But its not nearly precise as shooting a bareshaft, since fletching can still mask bad flight even with a broadhead. So while they may hit together OK, it doesn't mean the bow is tuned as well as it could be. A bareshaft won't lie. Shoot the bareshaft. Then final check with broadheads to make sure you're good.
Good info! I use to bareshaft tune everything and slipped away from it. But a lot of respectful people pushing me back into it which may be the best thing! Build a super forgiving setup
 
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