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HELP!!! Been shooting compound for about 4 years. Pretty new to AT though and have been impressed with the knowledge and the forum. I would like to see some posts about (1) Finding the right grip to prevent left hand torque and (2) Learning to settle the pin as it floats around before release. Thank you.:)
 

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I'm probably not the best to answer these questions, but I will give it a try.

Bow hand torque is a major accuracy killer. If a bow comes with a wide grip on it like the Mathews, I take it off and get a narrow aftermarket grip or if possible shoot off of the riser. Some bows are made to be shot off of the riser, but these are typically marketed as target bows. There are several ways to find a torque free bow hand placement. Using a powder or oil to make it very slippery works for some. Also, shooting through paper like you would to paper tune. If your bow is set up to shoot bullet holes, any tear if from your hand placement.

Settling the pins on the target or holding steady is a much discussed topic on AT, though not too much lately. The agreement seems to be that except for a few favored individuals, you can't hold perfectly steady while executing your release. The best accuracy for most of us seems to be from conscious focusing on the target, relaxing, letting the pin float and keeping it centered subconsciously. One of the keys to doing this is to have your draw length set perfectly for you, your release and the way your bow is set up. This means within 1/8" and is often hard to find. One of the greats, Terry Ragsdale said that when he is setting up a bow, he spends more time getting the draw length right than all other tuning combined.

I hope that this is what you are asking about.,
Allen
 

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Quick thoughts

...as far as your grip....make sure that it is repeatable and has the pressure directly behind the bow....high wrist--low wrist--or in between is a whole 'nother can of worms........ Here's something you can try.....I'll explain it as best I can....I had a buddy that was torquing the crud out of his bow and on the spur of the moment I invented what we jokingly named.......
"the torq-o-meter".....I took a paper clip and straightened it out (anything similar will work) I then attached it to his handle and bent it so that the point of the wire was perfectly in line with the string and the sight (right and left).....it will take a few tries to get it lined up vertically with the sight but keep moving it until it lines up with the sight pin or scope dot when you are at full draw thru your peep.......if the wire is lined up dead between the string and the sight before you draw.....ANY torque at full draw will be very obvious once you draw back.....leave it on for a while and get used to "untorquing"....

As far as the aiming.........best advice I have is......."Concentrate on the spot
through the pin"...let it float....squeeze through the shot.....aim small-miss small.....
 

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TobyR. said:
...as far as your grip....make sure that it is repeatable and has the pressure directly behind the bow....high wrist--low wrist--or in between is a whole 'nother can of worms........ Here's something you can try.....I'll explain it as best I can....I had a buddy that was torquing the crud out of his bow and on the spur of the moment I invented what we jokingly named.......
"the torq-o-meter".....I took a paper clip and straightened it out (anything similar will work) I then attached it to his handle and bent it so that the point of the wire was perfectly in line with the string and the sight (right and left).....it will take a few tries to get it lined up vertically with the sight but keep moving it until it lines up with the sight pin or scope dot when you are at full draw thru your peep.......if the wire is lined up dead between the string and the sight before you draw.....ANY torque at full draw will be very obvious once you draw back.....leave it on for a while and get used to "untorquing"....

As far as the aiming.........best advice I have is......."Concentrate on the spot
through the pin"...let it float....squeeze through the shot.....aim small-miss small.....
Toby,
Any chance of a photo of this? It sounds like a great practice idea.
Thanks,
Allen
 

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Torq-o-meter

...Allen....I dont know how I could get a camera to capture it but maybe if I do a better job of describing......On this particular bow we had a Sure-Loc sight.....we mounted the wire into one of the extra holes on the mounting block and bent it around the back of the bow and into the sight window...but anywhere will do. The right and left alignment is easy....just eyeball the point of the wire to be lined up with the string/arrow/sight. Then draw and aim as normal and keep moving the point up or down to line up with your sight pin (or dot in scope) through your peep. Once you get the up and down set you will need to go back and make sure the right/left is still where you set it earlier ........it takes a little while to get it set but once you do it will show you alot about your grip. On the first few shots, draw up and settle in with your eyes closed...then open them to see what your previous grip was like...if it is not lined up...you are torquing...........it works on the same principle as the Altier (sp?) sight.....

......after re-reading......maybe this will help..... the end of the wire will be like a second sight pin.....you can aim and line up 2 pins and your peep IF you are not torquing the bow.....
 

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If your hand is not on it correct and the two sight references are NOT lined up, DO NOT twist your wrist to line them up and expect to hit anything consistently.

If they do not line up, keep playing with it until you can put your hand on the bow and come to full draw with the reference points lined up.......with a relaxed hand, wrist, arm, and sufficient shoulder tension to keep your shoulder down, back, and out of your neck or ear.
 

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Torq-o-meter

FS560 said:
If your hand is not on it correct and the two sight references are NOT lined up, DO NOT twist your wrist to line them up and expect to hit anything consistently.

If they do not line up, keep playing with it until you can put your hand on the bow and come to full draw with the reference points lined up.......with a relaxed hand, wrist, arm, and sufficient shoulder tension to keep your shoulder down, back, and out of your neck or ear.
Jim, You are 100% right about that!

I tried the torq-o-meter earlier today and it really works. I was very lucky to get it set correctly on the first try. On the first arrow, it showed me that I was letting tension creep into my bow hand during the shot. I thought that I had a pretty torque free grip and I do, but I learned that I was letting tensing my had as I pulled through the shot. As you can imagine, this is not good for accuracy.

I tested different hand placements to find the best one and it doesn't take much hand tension to pre-load enough torque to throw an arrow out of the X ring.

Toby's Torq-o-meter is a great practice device. Do you know if something like this is legal under NFAA rules for indoor?

Toby, Many thanks for posting this,
Allen
 

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I would have to check the rule book to be sure, but I think a sight with a front and rear pin is legal, absolutely in freestyle. It would be impractical in pins class because the rear sight would have to move or you would have to have multiple rear pins, fixed, of course. For pins indoor, I see no problem as long as the rear pin conformed to the same rules as the front pin.
 

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Worked for me. Great Idea.

Really feel like this post deserves more attention. Put a rear sight on my Hoyt last week and was amazed. When lined up with my dot I hit where I aimed. Not lined up, arrows hit in the opposite direction from where the rear pin was placed.

Makes it a lot easier for me to find the pressure point on my grip that eliminates torque.
 
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