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I have been thinking about arrow flight out of the bow. If you go by most of the post on paper tuning, most guys get the best groups when they shoot a little nock high.

Would this be because of the bow putting a consistant torque on the arrow, canceling out some of the minor torque variations we put on the bow from shot to shot?

In a golf shot with an iron you hit down on the ball forcing it to come up the face of the club putting back spin on the ball. Which most people want because it stops the ball on the green, but it also will cancel out some of the left and right spin causing a straighter ball flight.

If this is the case then tuning for a bullet hole could be one of the most inconsistant setups due to the multiple directions that one could torque the bow.

What do you guys think?
 

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Its is well known that the nocking point is slightly high because the arrow sits above the geometric centre of the bow. Makes sure the arrow comes out of the bow straight.
 

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Dallas, you are correct.:D
From a shooting machine, one could argue that a perfect hole at all distances would be best.
Most of us are not machines and DO need to adjust our equipment to be less critical of the errors we will make.
Sean
 

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yes, dallas, you're right.. if we have a perfect release
every time, there's no need for having the nock a little
high.. but I have yet to find anyone who can release
the arrow perfectly every time thus allowing the nock
high scenario to be more forgiving of imperfections
in our release...
 

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I think you need the nock a little high because at release the shock to the arrow causes it to bounce up a little off the rest. The combination of the nock a little high and the bounce off the rest causes the arrow to leave the bow in a straight line.

Because of the odd shape of humans and all the odd forces on a bow when we hold them it is amazing that we can shoot arrows as accurately as we do.
 

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Paper tuning, in my oh so humble opinion, is just a starting point. The hole at such a close range to me is not that reveiling of true arrow flight. I have seen people go mad tring to get "bullet holes" with repeatable results. Sure they get some ,but I see most get varing results. I find that making adjustments to the sights and gear should be for thirty yards or longer. If you hit tight at thirty things are good. I had great groups at twenty and in, but to the right beyond. I tuned rest,nock point,and sights until I centered the groups at thiry. I think finding a very consistant anchoring point is one of the most important keys to archery. Paper tuning is a step in the path to proper setup. Move stuff around and experiment with the gear and become familiar with it. Mark it's position and try micro adjustments to everything. If things get worse move it back. I have never tuned on my own bow as much as this year. I have learned from listening to others and more by tring it myself. Sorry for the ramble....coffeeeee....gooood!
 

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you are exactly right. you'll find that allot of the experianced archers/ set up guys don't even bother with paper tuning, but rely on group tuning. set the bow up initially and just watch your arrow flight for things that you can see happen as you shoot and correct these as good as you can. then fine tune to how the bow groups the best at several ranges. it will give you the best overall compromise considering your input from the human element.
 

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Let me ramble then tell me I am crazy

I agree that paper tuning is just a beginnig step for setup, BUT if you are an old guy like me, it may be your only way to tell anything about your arrow flight. As arrow speed has gone up and my eyes ability to change focus rapidly has decreased, I cannot judge arrow flight visually. I just cannot see the things flying anymore.

I agree that the most important aspect of tuning is getting good groups, but paper tuning seems to cut down the time getting there. It is much easier for me to repeat good release/follow through at 5 feet at a blank sheet of paper that it is when trying to hold tight on a spot 30 yards away.

JMNSHO
 

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Well, whether you have form flaws or not, starting with an arrow coming off the bow wrong to begin with isn't going to help. We tune for bullet holes for ourselves which should be somewhere near a repetitive shot... torque, handpressure and all. We tune to paper for OUR individual form. Of course if you add something like a Muzzy zero rest it even makes it better as now you don't have a pivot point for the arrow to work around... should come off the string and fly true. With a broadhead on the end I want to at least start as straight a flight path as possible. If I screw it up after that..... well... it was a bad shot. Knock high or low or dead center straight... if you have form flaws you have form flaws. Then I'll group tune and test every broadhead with it's own arrow etc etc etc.
 

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bow tuning

Being a finger shooter, I use the walk back method for tuning my bow after I have my nock set in the proper location. This method, using a 3/4 inch wide tape, works best for me, as it sets the spring tension and cushion plunger for the best arrow grouping. I go from 10 yards to 35 yards in 5 yard incerments and when all the shots are in the tape, I know that is the best that I will be able to tune the bow.
After that, I know that whatever yardage I shoot, the arrows will be in the center of the target as long as I do everything right.
Getting old dosn't help either!

My web site with a great links page, just click on the URL and you can even put it in your favorites folder for future refference.

http://home.earthlink.net/~baswb/archery/
 

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Since I know you I'll just let everybody know that you are crazy, insane with archery information that is! Later Ronnie
 

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Dallas
I think you are correct. By tuning nock high you give the arrow DIRECTION out of the bow. Not to say that a bullet hole is not a good thing some guy like Ford some like Chevy.I preffer nock high my self. By the way like your name.

Dallas
 
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