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I have wanted to try an 80 lb bow for years but never did because I was afraid that I wouldn't like it. I feel like I could easily draw 80 lbs and with todays letoff and smoother draw cycles, I am thinking about going for it. My question is, in years past, the bows performed better with the limbs maxed out, is that still the case? Say I don't like 80 lbs and I wanted to back it down to 75 lbs. Would is still shoot as good or would that not be ideal? I am thinking about getting a 80 lb ventum.
 

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Back Yard Champion
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The maxed out crap is just that, crap. In days of old - like 20 years and older, there may have a difference. Much of the maxed out is given for outright performance, not accuracy. You could drop 10 pounds and still by okay.........
 

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Back Yard Champion
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The maxed out crap is just that, crap. In days of old - like 20 years and older, there may have a difference. Much of the maxed out is given for outright performance, not accuracy. You could drop 10 pounds and still by okay.........
 

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According to John Dudley, it does change the draw length to some degree, so if you back out the limbs the dl should get longer. He had a video on it, he said you can twist up the string a little to bring it back in
 

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Socket Man
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The current generation of bows out there shoot the same accuracy bottomed out or backed off for what that bow can offer the shooter.

For example I have been competing with a old bowtech specialist since 2010 and have shot it from 63 lbs with 60 lb limbs all the way down to 47 lbs with them backed all the way out. This bow shoots the exact same accuracy anywhere between also. Right now I am shooting it at 53lbs. The really cool thing about this old target bow is that it has over and over during the 11 years I have shot it held the sight pin setting for up to 3 months of heavy shooting without needing a windage click to fix it.

I have gotten a few other free bows from bow shops to compete with and each of them were shot bottomed out or backed off a little to get my asa speed and each of them shot the same accuracy regardless of the poundage being pulled. What sucks is that none of them could hold a sight pin and that is why all of them have been given back to the bow shop or sold for a little spending cash in my pocket.
 

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Isaiah 6:8
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it is said that a bow will perform more optimally with maxed out limbs, will most shooters ever notice? probably not.
 

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The question comes up way to often. Bows are made to work in their full range of adjustment. If they didn't then they would allow it. Just a little common snese.
 

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The question comes up way to often. Bows are made to work in their full range of adjustment. If they didn't then they would allow it. Just a little common snese.
Common sense tells us that it works best maxed out. You start unwinding limbs, the tension in the cables and string is different, wind it out to much and the draw lengths grow, also makes tuning and consistency harder.
 

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Common sense tells us that it works best maxed out. You start unwinding limbs, the tension in the cables and string is different, wind it out to much and the draw lengths grow, also makes tuning and consistency harder.
Nope, old wives tale! My buddy won outdoor nationals and indoor nationals (Vegas) with limbs backed out on his Elite. I don’t shoot like him but I’m not that bad (three pro/am wins) and all of my bows were backed out.
 

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99% of bows you will be fine. I'd say 100% will be fine with just backed out some. However from personal experience a '14 Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo backed out 8 turns was a mother to tune and had over 10fps variance shot to shot.
 

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99% of bows you will be fine. I'd say 100% will be fine with just backed out some. However from personal experience a '14 Hoyt Carbon Spyder Turbo backed out 8 turns was a mother to tune and had over 10fps variance shot to shot.
8 turns of course it is going to be a bear to tune. The bows range is only 4 turns a very max of 5.
 

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Common sense tells us that it works best maxed out. You start unwinding limbs, the tension in the cables and string is different, wind it out to much and the draw lengths grow, also makes tuning and consistency harder.
Wrong. All my bows are backed off to almost the minimum and the work just fine been doing it for years.
Why, because he bows were designed to do it.
 

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Wrong. All my bows are backed off to almost the minimum and the work just fine been doing it for years.
Why, because he bows were designed to do it.
Yeah it still works....... you’re not getting mad performance, max ability out of the bow. If that’s ok with you then fine. All the guys I know want the best performance, feeling, quiet bow they can get. You don’t achieve that by backing off limb bolts. Car still runs too with a couple missing spark plugs.
 

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the worst that can happen is you may not like 80lbs, you can always drop the weight down if you don't like it..........I'm sure it will be fine at 75 down to 70 also
 

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Yeah it still works....... you’re not getting mad performance, max ability out of the bow. If that’s ok with you then fine. All the guys I know want the best performance, feeling, quiet bow they can get. You don’t achieve that by backing off limb bolts. Car still runs too with a couple missing spark plugs.
how so?
 

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Yeah it still works....... you’re not getting mad performance, max ability out of the bow. If that’s ok with you then fine. All the guys I know want the best performance, feeling, quiet bow they can get. You don’t achieve that by backing off limb bolts. Car still runs too with a couple missing spark plugs.
Wrong again! The only performance change is speed obviously since you’re lowering poundage. It certainly will feel better since it’s lower draw, sound is not affected by bottomed out limbs if you’ve done your job making the bow quiet.
 

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I backed my Invicta SVX down to 55# from 60. DL got longer. What I ended up doing was backed limbs down to 57# and let out cables, extending ATA, and dropped poundage back to 55. Got everything where I want it. 28 1/8" DL and 55lbs feels great. I suppose I could have dropped to a 27.5 mod and backed out limbs a bit and twisted up cables effectively long stringing it and it would have worked as well but lost holding weight.

Backing out limbs will, in my experience, increase DL some and you may need to make cable and string adjustments to get it where you want it.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Common sense tells us that it works best maxed out. You start unwinding limbs, the tension in the cables and string is different, wind it out to much and the draw lengths grow, also makes tuning and consistency harder.
Your information is dated, educate yourself:

I hunt (and practice) Sept. thru Dec. with my bow maxed at 62 lbs just for the extra speed. After season I drop it down to 52 lbs to give my shoulders a break. With my parallel limb bow, DL on my bow changes, at most, 1/8" over the ten pound adjustment of DW which is not going to make any noticeable difference in ease or difficulty in tuning. Might just be my choice of bow, but I adjust the string stop, switch from a 330 to a lighter 400 spine arrow (same line of arrows), and I'm shooting bullet holes through paper.
 

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yearsago when bow had stationary limb pockets and limbs moved in and out in the pockets, they shot better with the limbs cranked down tight because that made a more complete connection between riser and limb, which eliminated the potential for limb movement. today's bows have pivoting and lockable limb pockets and the limbs are securely mounted in the moving pockets. when set the draw weigh where ever you want it, you lock the limb pockets in place by tightening the pivot bolts so there is no movement anywhere. consequently,... the bow shoot just as good at reduced draw weights as the do at max, as long as the rig is correct and within it's designed tension range.
 
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