Longbow, arrow selection, heavy bows

2896 Views 13 Replies 8 Participants Last post by sunaj, Aug 9, 2006

sunaj

Discussion Starter · Aug 3, 2006

I' m in trouble now-after years of recurves, I stepped into longbows and bought a couple of bows, a holmes 68# and a Kinkoho from Dan Quillian 70#. This is what bows are about, says my brain as I pull these wonderful, slim creatures back and let an arrow loose.
However as these are not center shot I see my beloved CE 300s won't work with these, seems the spine is too stiff. Interested in what other longbowmen are shooting. I have a 27" draw but in the past I prefer to shoot full length carbons for a variety of reasons. Realizing one cannot actually tune arrows to a bow except thru trial and error, I am interested in what other longbowmen are using and works for them, thanks sunaj

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tpoof

· #3 · Aug 3, 2006

I have a number of longbows,,reflex deflex,,but my fav is a 60lb Jerry Hill Wildcat delux,,,ya hand shock soo bad you get headaches after 10 shots lol,,, but with that bow shootin is effortless and accurate.
I use 2016 aluminums with 125 gr tips,,draw 27",,,they bareshaft perfect for me!
I have a homemade spine tester and I use the spine of the 2016 to make my own wood arrows,,,long process but in a nutshell,,,cut blanks 3/8 square of fav wood,( i have some old fir planks salvaged that are so good in grain) i built a die out of 1/2' steel and drilled hole in it from 3/8" down to 5/16". take my shaft,chuck it in a drill and run it thru the first hole to knock the edges off,then on and on to smaller holes till I match the spine of the 2016 I've done this with numerous shafts,,,once I find a aluminum I like match it with wood, heavier woods like ash require smaller diameters.
Anyway thats how I do my shafts...
I try to keep it as handson and cheap as possible
its fun too!
Good luck!

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tpoof

· #9 · Aug 4, 2006

Hello Feral Donkey!
You know to tell the truth I'm really not sure what the spine deflection numbers are?The spine tester I've made is just so I can match various bends (deflections)it has no numbers on it and I just mark where the pointer says while I'm spining my shafts. I've got a 27 draw so I knew that it would be either a 1916, 2016 shaft would work. I started with a 2016 shaft cut to 291/2" and with bare shaft testing got a weak shaft profile ,,so I cut 1/4' off and reshoot,,kept doing that until I got a straight on shaft,,,ended to to be a 28 3/4' shaft that worked the best on the 2016 shaftwith a 125gr.tip,,the 1916 were just too limber and would have to be cut too short to work on this particular bow.
Once I found that I matched it with the woods and the tecnique I've described previously,,it works real well! I also do the same with my wifes Martin x200 40lber which takes 1816's cut to 28 1/2'. I've made some fir woodies for her and they shoot excellent as well,, Good enough for her to win the Canadian Nationals for 4 straight years,,,before her shoulder surgery

So, sorry for the long winded reply (and not really answering your question)lol. but that is the way i do it,, got the spine tester plans off of the Traditional Bowhunter mag way back when, pretty bushleague but works fine enough. Hope this helps a bit at least

a friend in archery
tpoof

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