Try a wrap or two of good electrical tape. You don't say how much slop is there so it is hard to make a recommendation. If it is pretty narrow, you could even use a few coats of fingernail polish. Or, you could cut a strip of stick-on felt and line the interior of the limb slot.

 

Another thing that I do to keep the old style Schafer limbs with the big bolt hole centered on the new smaller bolts is to stretch some small o-rings over the bolt. You could do the same thing on an ILF tiller bolt. Four or five stacked against the bottom of the bolt head will work fine.

 

You didn't mention what riser you have and I'm not sure I understand what's going on, but..... early on a lot if risers used 1/4" bolts and had to use a 5/16 ID x 3/8" OD collar to fit the limb-bolt groove--most don't do that now. If you indeed do have an early riser you "may" have lost that collar. I've picked up supply line at the local hardware and cut it to length with a small pipe cutter to make several of them. Maybe?

Anyway.... M8 is .315 so you may be able to find a collar material the bolt will fit in with a 3/8" OD at a good hardware. If not, you could simply wrap it with electrical tape to take up the void.

 

123 -

Not sure I'm seeing the problem. The end of the U groove is a circle, as is the limb bolt. When strung, the two are pushed together and seat, so any lateral looseness should disappear. When unstrung, it doesn't really matter.

Viper1 out.

 

This is incorrect. The dovetail should be fully seated. The tiller bolt will ideally only be contacting the sides of the groove. If this is not a snug fit, limb alignment will wander. A little slop at the bolt will be magnified at the limb tips. Limb alignment will be different every time the bow is strung.

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Here is a pic of the gap I'm talking about. My micrometer says the OD of the contact area on the bolt is .351", and I find info online stating this interface should be closer to .375". I do not have a caliper to measure the groove in my limbs. But based on my findings of 3/8" as the common size, I need around .024" of filler total. It's really too bad there are not "official" standards for ILF.

Brad's suggestion of wrapping it with electrical tape may be the way to go.

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123 -

Does the limb move when the bow is strung?

Viper1 out.

 

Solutions:
1. Simple- tape. Hands down easiest and quickest. And you can either tape on the bolt or on the limbs. I might do on limbs myself as easier to access, add a wrap, around each side of the channel, set tape to overlap on bottom of limb.
2. Find a buddy with a lathe.

• Easy to build a custom bolt, this is a 10-20 minute job for a real machinist, I could do in 30min to an hour.
• Maybe build out a sleeve. Might be too thin to be practical.
• If you are exceptionally lucky and have some old easton 2412, 2413, 2419 aluminum arrows laying around they might work as a sleeve. 24/64 =3/8" and the wall thickness is pretty thin at 12-19 thousandths.

 

struggles, et al -

What you're saying is technically correct, but it just doesn't work that way most of the time. I have combinations that range from loose to snug to unusable (way too tight), and except for the latter, none have been problematic.
If the limbs move laterally when strung, there's a problem, and it will usually cause a noise (vibration). At least that's been my experience. For that reason, if there is actual movement, tape may only be a temporary fix.

If it (lateral limb movement when strung) was real, I'd just get rid of the riser, not worth jury rigging; but that hasn't happened yet.

Viper1 out.

 

You still haven't mentioned what riser you have. Might be good to know so we can avoid it.

 

WIthout knowing what the limb slot measures and what the assemblied clearance is currently compared to design specifications is like thw weatherman telling you tonight it's going to be DARK. Find out what the design clearance is supposed to be first. Electrical tape is made for wrapping around wires not to control percision tolerances.

 

But the weatherman is right! [emoji3] It looks like the gap varies a little from limb to limb, simply because different brands of limbs are a little different. I want to add a layer around the bolt that is .010-.012 thick. My objective is not to be ultra precise, that went out the window when the manufacturer took too much off the bolt! I just want it snug-ish so once it is tuned, I don't need to worry about it coming un-tuned.

My new limbs for it have not arrived yet, plus I don't have a string long enough, so I haven't even strung it up. While tinkering and scheming one day I put some limbs on it and immediately noticed how sloppy they were.


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