It definitely will, 70-60 made a big difference for me. No harm in trying and seeing what happens

 

A true reduction of five pounds will help. Been there done that. Knowing your limits helps to, meaning I can't fling200 arrows a day anymore (age) so I have reduced my expectations. Instead of shooting 6 arrow groups I only shoot 3 arrows. I am still practicing the same amount of time with my head in the game but with less stress on my shoulder.

 

Good post.:thumbs_up

 

I consider the correct poundage for me is one that I can draw at least 200 times in a day. Sure, I can grunt back 10+ lbs more but I can't see any reason to do so.

Doing all I can to never have shoulder surgery!

 

Me too...thanks for the replies. So, is it safe to assume that 5lbs will help me out as far as "saving" the shoulder? I realize that I must just do it and see for myself but hoping to shorten the learning curve a bit and glean some knowledge from guys that have gone down this road already.

Thanks again...Labs

 

I have found that I can notice a big difference when I do nothing more than crank the limb bolts out one turn.

Automan

 

Ofocourse lighter poundage is going to help....BE AWARE...however, that when you turn those limb bolts down the two full turns (or maybe more) to lower that poundage....your bows drawlength will INCREASE...probably around 3/8" or MORE.

It isn't just as simple as cranking on those limb bolts...other things go along with this, drawlength being an important factor. Once you lower poundage, you will likely have to re-set the nocking point (move the ARROW REST and NOT the d-loop), check the "timing/synch" of the cam(s), and of course, if you are on the edge with arrow spine...you could end up with arrows that aren't matched as well to the bow or a bit on the stiff side.

Obviously, you'll have to re-set the site pins or site settings, etc. However....if it let's you go to a LIGHTER arrow...then it is a win-win situation, and you "might" end up GAINING speed, depending upon which lighter arrow you go with!!! I've seen this happen many times; a person cranks the bow down, ends up needing lighter spined arrows, re-sets things, and GAINS speed and distance!

field14 (Tom D.)

 

Ofocourse lighter poundage is going to help....BE AWARE...however, that when you turn those limb bolts down the two full turns (or maybe more) to lower that poundage....your bows drawlength will INCREASE...probably around 3/8" or MORE.
It isn't just as simple as cranking on those limb bolts...other things go along with this, drawlength being an important factor. Once you lower poundage, you will likely have to re-set the nocking point (move the ARROW REST and NOT the d-loop), check the "timing/synch" of the cam(s), and of course, if you are on the edge with arrow spine...you could end up with arrows that aren't matched as well to the bow or a bit on the stiff side.

Obviously, you'll have to re-set the site pins or site settings, etc. However....if it let's you go to a LIGHTER arrow...then it is a win-win situation, and you "might" end up GAINING speed, depending upon which lighter arrow you go with!!! I've seen this happen many times; a person cranks the bow down, ends up needing lighter spined arrows, re-sets things, and GAINS speed and distance!

field14 (Tom D.)

Thats a good point but a lot of people wouldnt even notice the change unless they have the perfect setup and shoot a lot so that they can feel the difference.

 

3/8" to 1/2" is pretty serious increase or decrease in DL....and the MUSCLES will notice it right away and the person will say "it doesn't "feel" right" but not know why. You get your alignment that far off, and things can and will go to heck in a hay basket...especially if the DL is already to long to begin with, and now you add even more. Fouls everything up.

field14 (Tom D.)

 

When I had my last bow I wanted to shoot more poundage so I would turn it up 3-6 pounds and shoot untill my back muscles hurt and then turn it down but I never really noticed a change. He might but I didnt.

 

yes it can,, i buy 70# bows but most of them are set at about 63, i have found this to be the sweet spot for me,, and i have torn my shoulders up 3 times with surgery once,, it wasn't the bow that tore mine up though, but turning them down is absolutely better

 

Same here. 63 is a good spot to be.

 

Increasing poundage DECREASES drawlength about 1/4" per full turn of the limb bolts, in addition to other changes.
Decreaseing poundage INCREASE drawlength about 1/4" per full turn of the limb bolts, in addition to other changes.

If you are on the edge on spine, it can radically affect accuracy and consistency.

1/4" can have a drastic effect on consistency and accuracy...but then again, it does depend upon just how "well fitted" and "accurate and consistent" a person wants to be? Nice thing about this game is it is almost always entirely up to the individual in how far they wanna carry this thing...hahahaha.
Not everyone wants to be a world champion or bring down a trophy animal at distances over 20 yards. Many are happy with a pie plate group at 20 yards, while others want to be able to do BETTER than that at 50 yards.....
field14 (Tom D.)

 

Tom, decreasing draw weight on today's parallel limb bows effect draw length far less. Otherwise, I agree.

For the Poster, drop 10 pounds and have fun with your bow for a long, long time. I've got a partial tear of the rotor cuff (doc says is healing on it's own) and do just fine at 57 pounds. On a slow day at the shop I probably fling 200 arrows and feel good at the end of the day.

 

So is that why I shot a buck at 30 yards last year and can shoot a lot better groups than a pie plate at 20 yards? I know im not going to be a world champion but that doesnt mean I cant shoot good groups.

 

Nobody said you couldn't shoot good groups....no need to get defensive.....I'm simply stating facts concerning the changing of draw weight and the other effects it has on the shootablity and tune of the bow...plain and simple.

There is more to it than simply cranking on the limb bolts to get the poundage up or down. LOTS more to it, some of which is likely to make the difference between a quick and humane vital shot OR the maiming, wounding, and potential suffering and loss of the intended quarry. Plain and simple. Let alone the risk of further injury due to creation of MORE misalignment of muscles and skeletal support.

field14 (Tom D.)

 

Just take one full turn off the limbs and see how the draw weight feels. You will notice the difference. If you want to take another half turn out then do so. If you like the reduced draw weight:
Put a few twists in the string, reducing the string length, and reducing the draw length.
and/or
Remove a twist or 2 or 3 from the cables also reduces draw length and draw weight a bit.
and/or
You may be able to reduce the length of your d-loop if it's a bit long. This doesn't change your draw length but it does move your draw hand forward.

 

second that

 

Since reading this thread, I went out and lowered my bow 2.5 turns. It impacted my yards by 1@20- 3@35. The surprise to me was my left and right. I was hitting 3" right. I am attributing this to torquing the bow. My groups tightened up though. Dont know what the poundage is now but it was at 72 before adjusting. I need a new grip, I am not comfortable with the factory Mathews grip.

 

I dropped 70# pounds several years ago. Not because I can't shoot 70+ anymore, but because I can't practice with it without 800 mg of ibuprofen that night.

Another thing that my shoulders are aware of is the shape of the force-draw curve. I can pull a bit more weight if the front of the curve is shallower.

 

I'd drop the weight to whatever felt effortless and allowed me to shoot 100s of shots without pain or fatique. Go to 50# if that's what it takes. I won't call you a sissy or anything.

The DL issue.....I've seen bows change 5/8" dropping 10#, but some bows (mostly dependant on limb angle) won't change 1/4" doing so. Upright limbs change a lot, beyond parallel barely change at all. So be sure to measure it's exact DL.

 

A little over 1.5 lbs made a difference for me.

 

thanks for the replies everyone. backed off two turns on the limbs at lunch today. Flung a couple arrows and I seemed to have felt an easier draw. I'll wait to see how things feel after a full session but as someone mentioned, can't hurt to try.

On a side note, I thought I read that bows "work" better at their max weight. In other words, 60-70 lb limbs work better closer to 70 lbs. Is this accurate??

thanks again...Labs

 

That's to say a 60# bow maxed will be a little more efficient than a 70# bow backed off to 60#. That's because there is less preload on the heavier (both is stiffness and mass) limbs on the 70# bow. It will still shoot as well as it did before, though. Limb pocket designs today let us do this without the issues the old school fixed limbs cups caused.

 

Used to shoot 70# decided to drop down to 65#. I found this was the biggest single thing I have ever done to increase my accuracy. And yes you will save a lot of wear and tear on your shoulder.

 

Its more accurate to say at peak weight a bow is more efficient your bows will work fine (and safely within the manufacturers specified range.)

 

That 5 lbs pounds will make a big difference. It isn't worth blowing out your shoulder to shoot the heavier draw weight.

 

Exact reasons I went from 60# to 55# on my hunting bow, 50# on my target. Getting older, shoulders are starting to give me problems, I can now shoot around 100 arrows in 2 1/2 hours with out getting tired or hurting. Poundage and speed for me is over rated-----if I cannot hit what I'm aiming at then I have no business shooting. To me this is all important everything else takes a back seat.

 

thanks again for the help everyone...

I backed off the limbs 2 turns each putting me in that 65# range. A noticable difference in drawing back and not much adjusting needed on my pins (Hogg-It). One thing that has me puzzled is right now I feel dialed in at 30 yards but I am much less accurate at 20 yards for some reason. Granted, I only worked on it one night so I will try to figure it out on Sunday night...heading north to catch my first musky of the year after work today.

Thanks again for all of the help