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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How does one determine the magnify for the scopes I know they have 2x 4x 6x - so looking to use the scope for indoor and possibly 3D as well. But not sure which strength I should pursue.


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It is largely personal preference... How large do you want your target to appear in your scope?

I run 6x lens for both my indoor and outdoor bow. Most Indoor target archer I know and talk to run 4x or 6x. I would start there. the best advice though, is to try it first by borrowing lens/scope combo from others, If you are able.

Just know that the higher the magnification lens you run, the more pin movement you will see... so unless you are super steady in your hold, higher magnification lens just invites target panic. IMO.

Hope this helps,

Boomer
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for sharing - I had kinda leaned to the 4x as it’s kinda the midpoint between 2x and 6x but didnt know if one was more beneficial than the other.


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How much extension you use makes a difference. I like a higher magnification on a shorter extension since I see less horizontal movement which suites me better.
 

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Grantmac,

Great point! just curious, what lens and what extension (which hole) do you use? I run my 6X lens on my Axcel 6" carbon bar, 2nd to the last dimple on the back.
 

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1 diopter, so what most people call a 8x lens. I run it in the least extension with a small scope.
Definitely more of a target or field setup rather than 3D.
For 3d I prefer a 3x on medium extension.
 

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I guess I am the weird one. For several years prior to turning 70, I used a 7X for spots,8X for indoors and a 5X for 3D. I am now shooting the 5X for spots, 4X for indoor, and a 3X for 3D. So don't you believe that lens only come in 2X, 4X, 6X. or 8X powers. I know a couple of people that shoot 10X and I once owned a 12X but I could not shoot it. I use to shoot the lens at the farthest dimple on a 9" bar. Now I am shooting the lower power at the 4' line on the bar. Getting old sucks.
 

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Currently running a 6x fairly close to the riser. For an initial lens I’d recommend a 4x. Probably start close to the riser then back it out. Be advised that when you change power or when you change distance from the riser it will also change your left or right impact points. If you think you’ll be changing a lot you could log the number of clicks and the direction to make your set up easier. For example: move from position 2 to position 4 adjust 10 clicks counter clockwise @40 yds. Also be aware that “perceived” motion is magnified at higher powers. The motion of the bow is the same, but it looks like it’s moving more at higher power. That’s why higher power invites target panic. You try to release when the pin crosses the center even if it’s moving because you can’t hold it still enough. If you watch closely, some thumb button shooters will move their thumb just short of release several times before they fire. You’ll see the same thing with wrist index finger releases. This is actually a mild form of target panic, wanting to shoot when the dot crosses the x but knowing they are not stable enough to make the shot. Hth
 

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I've use a sight frame extended right at 6" and used from day one a 4X lens and clarifier - my 71 year old eyes still work pretty good. Used same set up for everything - Indoor, Field, 3D.
 
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Use 6 X lens & 9" ext at next to the longest hole with a 3/64 aperture & no clarifier, BUT I had
cataract surgery about 4 years ago & had a lens installed for far vision but do need readers to set my sight. 75 Y/O eyes. Also use a Tru Spot lens with 1/4" grind, all I see is the center of the target
Only shoot spots indoor & out.
 

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On my indoor/3D bow, I have a 4X lens, and a 1.5 clarifier in my peep.
Where did you find a 1.5? I didn't know they made those. I have a #2 right now which is great for indoor but at long distances it's not as good.

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Reckoning 35 for 3D, RealmX for hunt, PSE SupraFocusXL for spot . Axcel, ARC release, Victory.
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I have 4x in 9" Axcel Achieve 3rd spot from behind so it's quite far.
I use 0.5x clarifier with it. Works pretty well in 3D and I use same magnification for spots.
I have Shrewd MiniMag for spots and Optum for 3D. I shoot mostly WA-competitions so I can't use sight light and that Optum pin isn't bright enough for indoors in size .15 what I use.

After all, like in binos just buy sharp one before big magnification and U actually see those lines better from 3D target.
Optics are usually thing where U shouldn't buy that cheapest one.
 

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Im running an 8x midway on my sight bar. With the specialty green clarifier . If perceived movement bothers you then I would use lower magnification, but if it doesn’t then higher is ok.
 
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