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I just bought the new bengal,love it.I bouht the bow friday afternoon from my local so called pro shop....(Different story for another day)I wasnt able to play with the bow until this morning i set my rest center and started tuning.When i paper tune with a raw shaft i got a high left nock.nothing i did helped i finally got it close by turning the cabel gaurd to the 11:00 oclock position.I had to move my sights as far left as they would go,This afternoon i noticed the serving on the yoke cabel by the cam starting to come loose.As I noticed closer the cam to me looks as if it is leaning.Check out the photos let me know what you think......I have been with martin for 12 yrs and have loved ever bow that i have had ,even the first bengal.
 

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You might also want to post this in the General Archery Section.


I looked at a Bengal at the local pro shop this past weekend and the top idler wheel had a lot of lean in it at rest. They had the cable guard set at about the 2 O'clock position. I would think that putting the cable guard between the 4 and 5 O'clock postion would put the stress point lower and closer to the arrow so less side torque would be applied. Am I off base on my thoiught?

I have also heard different schools of thought on how to adjust the Y cable to eliminate the torque, some people say do it so that the idler is straight at rest and otheres say do it so the idler is straight at full draw. Which is correct I'm not sure.

Maybe joelc or pug will chime in and help us out.
 

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cmherrmann said:
I looked at a Bengal at the local pro shop this past weekend and the top idler wheel had a lot of lean in it at rest. They had the cable guard set at about the 2 O'clock position. I would think that putting the cable guard between the 4 and 5 O'clock postion would put the stress point lower and closer to the arrow so less side torque would be applied. Am I off base on my thoiught?
Adjust the rod to any position that will clear your fletchings. If you have high profile fletching keep it high. I really don't see much difference between 2 o'clock and 4, except the 4 o'clock will scare a knuckle faster. The abound of side torque is caused by the off-set of the cables.

cmherrmann said:
I have also heard different schools of thought on how to adjust the Y cable to eliminate the torque, some people say do it so that the idler is straight at rest and otheres say do it so the idler is straight at full draw. Which is correct I'm not sure.
Well, you won't adjust out the torque on the cable guard. It is off center and the only thing you can do is minimize it by reducing the off-set. The cable lean is best adjusted to were the cam is in line with the string at rest. This is were the arrow will be released at. Then by bare shaft tuning, a few twists may be added or deducted from the buss cable legs to achieve a straight launch. The arrow rest should be set as close to possible with a centering guage, but has little effect on how the nock leaves the bow kicking left or right.
 

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Thanks Deezlin, it made more sense to me that the legs of the buss cable should be adjusted at rest also, but I have read both suggestions at rest and at full draw.

My thought on the 4:00 O clock position was that it would be closer to the arrow and further from the idler so it would not have to be turned out as far to get the same clearance. Have to agree about the knuckle thing. I put a knuckle saver from BowJax on mine and cut it down by 1 1/2" also.
 
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