A friend just bought a new firecat ,I`m trying to get some tech support.I callled martin direct, absolutly horrible tech service.I`m just trying to find some info on simple module numbers or letters for draw lenght settings,and questions about draw stops.It looks to me like the shop has the dl wrong,the cams are under rotated,hitting the stop to soon,etc..any help would be great...
martin firecat question/cat cams
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You won't find many here that will agree with your assessment of Martin's CS. It is outstanding.
Now, what exactly do you need to know......... I can help.
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Don't base your opinion on one phone call. Martin does have excellent Customer Service. :tongue: Besides you don't need them...you got lots of folks like Eagle here to help you. :wink:
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uh oh you done it now! The hounds have been released... shoot Steve Hilliard a PM he will be able to help you out great guy!
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7,785 Posts
ok let me try to help the bow Dl is 26-29 " with the Standard DL moduals.
26" DL is hole #1 on both cams
26.5" is #2 on both cams
27" is #3 on both cams
27.5" is #4 on both cams
28" is #5 on both cams
28.5" is #6 on both cams
29" is #7 on both cams
If your over a 29" Dl you should of ordered the bow with the Long Draw Mod 29.5" - 30" DL
I set my Draw stop on the cam to where it was perfect at FD this will take some tinkering. Remember a littile on the Drawstop goes along ways. If you need help timming the cams read this post on CAT Cam Timming:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626601
Alot of very good info on that post! That is exactly how I have timmed my cams and the bow shoots very well.
A few AT people to contact on CAT Cam timming are:
Steve Hilliard, Jaws Dad, Le Earl, Grey Eagle and Nut's N Bolts!
Martin Customer Service is Top Notch and always goes Above and Beyond the call of Duty for a Bow Manufacture. Alot of other bow companys should follow in Martins FootSteps IMHO! I worked all day and got home at 4:30 MST and called Martin and got ahold of Jake Np. Keep trying if you wish , but there are alot of well Qualified Martin Shooters here that can and will be glad to help you out and wont ask for anything in return, like myself.
Peace Elk :thumb:
26" DL is hole #1 on both cams
26.5" is #2 on both cams
27" is #3 on both cams
27.5" is #4 on both cams
28" is #5 on both cams
28.5" is #6 on both cams
29" is #7 on both cams
If your over a 29" Dl you should of ordered the bow with the Long Draw Mod 29.5" - 30" DL
I set my Draw stop on the cam to where it was perfect at FD this will take some tinkering. Remember a littile on the Drawstop goes along ways. If you need help timming the cams read this post on CAT Cam Timming:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=626601
Alot of very good info on that post! That is exactly how I have timmed my cams and the bow shoots very well.
A few AT people to contact on CAT Cam timming are:
Steve Hilliard, Jaws Dad, Le Earl, Grey Eagle and Nut's N Bolts!
Martin Customer Service is Top Notch and always goes Above and Beyond the call of Duty for a Bow Manufacture. Alot of other bow companys should follow in Martins FootSteps IMHO! I worked all day and got home at 4:30 MST and called Martin and got ahold of Jake Np. Keep trying if you wish , but there are alot of well Qualified Martin Shooters here that can and will be glad to help you out and wont ask for anything in return, like myself.
Peace Elk :thumb:
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Not everyone is going to call and get excellent customer service everytime guys, all it takes is one person having a bad day and the caller has a bad experience. It happens to every company, so relax lol :wink: :darkbeer:
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Uh oh here it comes everyone get ready we have awoke the mother ship the Martin fanboys are circling the wagon... Like some one said already all bow companies have excellent customer service all it takes is to get one person on the phone who is having a bad day... and they dump on you is right NO but hey we are all human and some one will pop on here and say well they are in the customer service buiseness they need to be nice! Hey let them sit in that person seat for one day. One last thing get ahold of Steve Hilliard if the one post has not helped you...
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Well the numbers for the draw legenths are in the owners manual that came with the new bow. If you can take pics or do a search on here for cat cam pics the proper rotation has been shown on here a few times. As for the draw stop set it where he likes it as has been said alittle on the draw stop goes a long way. As for customer service well I had a bad limb on my new Slayer called Monday the new limbs arrived tuesday. 1 day yep thats bad service.
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53,203 Posts
Like elk4me says...
26" DL is hole #1 on both cams
26.5" is #2 on both cams
27" is #3 on both cams
27.5" is #4 on both cams
28" is #5 on both cams
28.5" is #6 on both cams
29" is #7 on both cams
Step 1:
Loosen the draw stop so the stop is free to slide.
Step 2:
Pick a hole in the module for a draw length to start.
Let's say we choose Hole #3.
Make sure the screw is in Hole #3 on the top cam.
Make sure the screw is in Hole #3 on the bottom cam.
(this is just an example. Pick whatever hole you like....just make sure you selec the SAME hole for the top cam AND the bottom cam)
Step 3:
Drop the draw weight down say 4 turns from MAXIMUM,
just so it's easier to feel when the cables hit the FLAT part of the draw length modules.
Step 4:
Draw the bow until you FEEL the cables hit the flat part of both modules.
Evaluate if the draw length is about right,
and if the draw length is NOT about right,
then select a different hole for the screw.
Move the screw to the new hole in the draw length module
and then make sure you are in the SAME hole for both modules.
Step 5:
Now we are going to position the draw stop.
The position of the draw stop determines our holding weight.
This is the bottom cam.
The draw stop is essentially a metal tube,
with a plastic cover.
Take off the plastic cover for now,
because we will be making lots of VERY SMALL adjustments
in the draw stop position.
This picture shows the draw stop about in the middle of the slot.
This picture shows the draw stop closer to the "pointy" part of the cam.
I cannot tell you the "correct" position for the draw stop,
because this depends on how much holding weight you want.
Just experiment with the draw stop position.
If you move the draw stop too close to the pointy part
of the cam,
then the holding weight is going to be EXTREMELY HIGH,
as in VERY VERY HARD to HOLD, as in a LOT OF WEIGHT at full draw.
If the HOLDING WEIGHT is HUGE,
then the draw length modules may not be touching the cables.
That's ok.
That's the purpose of the draw stop,
so you can custom set the holding weight.
Now,
clearly, the holding weight is WAY TOO MUCH.
Ok.
So, move the draw stop away from the pointy end of the cam,
a tiny bit, say 1/4-inch.
Draw the bow to full draw.
Holding weight is still WAY TOO MUCH,
but the holding weight is a bit less.
You get the idea.
Move the draw stop a little further back, AWAY from the pointy end of the cam. This time, move the draw stop only 1/8th inch.
Ok.
How's the holding weight now?
Holding weight is a little less,
but now you are getting close to where you want to be.
You get the idea.
Now,
we move the draw stop a tiny tiny skosh,
maybe we move the draw stop only 1/16th inch.
Draw the bow to full draw.
How is the holding weight, now?
Now, we are getting really close to the perfect holding weight.
Ok.
Now, we move the draw stop maybe 1/32nd inch away from the pointy end of the bottom cam.
How is the holding weight now?
Is it PERFECT for you?
Ok.
Holding weight is now ABSOLUTELY PERFECT.
OOOOOOPs.
Hold on now.
Measure the draw length.
OOOOOOPs.
The draw length is now 1/4-inch too LOOOOONG.
What do we do now????????
Break out the portable bow press.
Press the bow,
and relax the bow limbs and the bowstring.
Take off the TOP bowstring end loop.
Add say 5 complete 360 degree twists to the TOP bowstring end loop.
Put the TOP bowstring end loop back onto the peg.
Take off the BOTTOM bowstring end loop.
Add say 5 complete 360 degree twists to the BOTTOM bowstring end loop.
Put the BOTTOM bowstring end loop back on the peg.
Keep doing this (adding the same twists to both ends of the bowstring)
until you get your PERFECT bow Draw Length Setting.
I guess i was talking to the wrong gal in tech support,I keep asking to talk to someone without her trying to relay info,anyway did`nt mean to bash,it just was frusterating.Thanks bolts and the rest for the great help,you answered all my questions..
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10,773 Posts
'08 Firecat Question.
Just wondering, once I have the cams wrapped up with minimal spacing between the post and cables do I need to get the bow into spec as far as BH and ATA? Past experience tells me that once I twist cables my BH is going up and ATA is going down. Let me know as this is my first CAT cammed Martin and want it to perform at it's best.
Just wondering, once I have the cams wrapped up with minimal spacing between the post and cables do I need to get the bow into spec as far as BH and ATA? Past experience tells me that once I twist cables my BH is going up and ATA is going down. Let me know as this is my first CAT cammed Martin and want it to perform at it's best.
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53,203 Posts
Ignore the BH and ATA,
if you are going to try the "minimize the spacing from the post to the cables" thing.
You are "customizing" the feel of your bow so you like it.
Yes, ATA does go down, when you do this procedure.
Just check the draw weight when done tuning.
If you have a 60 lb bow,
then check your draw weight.
If the bow draws beyond 60 lbs,
with the short ATA setting,
then loosen the limb bolts to get the draw weight
at max rating or where-ever you want the draw weight to be at.
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10,773 Posts
nuts&bolts,
Thanks for the info. One other thing, when I time these cams I am looking for the cables to hit the flats on the mods at the same time? Or are there holes in the cam that I should use for timing at rest.
Feels like my cables hit at the same time now but if I use the holes in the cams one is further from the limb than the other.
Let me know.
Thanks!
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5,465 Posts
You want the flat area on the Cam Modules to bottom out on the cables at the same time. If you want a real nice solid wall you should then set the draw stop to hit at the same time as the Mods. I cannot remember who posted it it but they suggested that the top cam should hit slightly before the bottom for better level nock travel.
I had mine setup so the cams were wrapped and the mods hit at the same time as the draw stop.
I had mine setup so the cams were wrapped and the mods hit at the same time as the draw stop.
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