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Mathews top hat kits

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fountain

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I bought a top hat kit a while back and it seems I always use the set with the line in the middle (.120/.055).
I have a phase 4 coming and I’m sure I’ll need to swap the factory top hats for the middle set. Is there any way I can buy just those top hats or do I have to buy a whole kit again? I have 4 sets that the bow will come from the factory with (.100/.075) and only 1 set of the middle line hats
 
#3 ·
Or offer to trade one of the non-stock top hats with someone for the ones you need? A member on AT may be willing to make that trade if they always use one of the other sets. But yes, unfortunately I don’t think you can buy individual top hats that aren’t in a set.
 
#6 ·
bossofduhwoods said:
Do not leave the shop till its tuned to u. Unless your getting the bow for free of course.
Click to expand...
We highly recommend that a bow is not tuned fully when you first purchase it. The purchaser needs to get used to the bow for one (all bows are slightly different), and the brand new strings need to settle. Any tuning done at the shop at the time of purchase will be worthless after a few hundred arrows. We offer a free tuning with every new bow purchased, do you want that done the day you pick it up and then have to pay for a tune a month later, or wait and get the free tune when it will actually make a long term difference?
 
#7 ·
Have dealer do initial set up and tune. This doesn’t have to be a perfect tune. Shoot a couple hundred arrows through it. Learn the bow, let it settle in and enjoy it. This will more than likely be with field points, no danger of wounding game. Then go back to dealer for final tune. Top hat tuning really should be the dealers responsibility. I would recommend letting your tech know your intentions from the beginning. So both parties are on the same page.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
There will be no dealer. I bought the bow from here and I will do all my own tuning at home. I have everything needed. I don’t want to have to rely on a shop. I may have to look at buying another kit unless someone needs some of the hats I have in return for the others.
 
#9 ·
veritas.archangel said:
We highly recommend that a bow is not tuned fully when you first purchase it. The purchaser needs to get used to the bow for one (all bows are slightly different), and the brand new strings need to settle. Any tuning done at the shop at the time of purchase will be worthless after a few hundred arrows. We offer a free tuning with every new bow purchased, do you want that done the day you pick it up and then have to pay for a tune a month later, or wait and get the free tune when it will actually make a long term difference?
Click to expand...
Makes sense
 
#11 ·
Poe Outdoors said:
Ridiculous Mathews doesn't include top hats with every bow. Same goes for PSE with their new system. We pay way too much for these bows to not get a few plastic shims in the box.
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Couldn't agree more, I'd even go a bit further and feel if the bow is offered with 2 or 3 different let-off mods for the particular length the bow was originally ordered in, that part of the package should include all the different let-off mods for that particular length. How much do the mods and top hats actually cost them to machine, can't be much at all. Buy a $1,900 TRX and having all mods would be a nice touch and likely go over big with their customer base and hush the crowd that complains that one has to buy those as extras.

But we all know why they won't as these things are just future sale items for their bottom line, sorry if I'm being a bit nit picky as I'm trying to get over covid.
 
#12 ·
I never leave my bow shop until all is adjusted on my for me. It may take two or three tries till I am comfortable with the hole set up. Also good arrow shafts are extremely important. That’s like having a great rifle with bad ammunition.
 
#13 ·
Odds are really good that you will just have to swap sides on the top or the bottom with the P4. Might have to swap the top and bottom too but not as likely. I checked 5-6 new P4 at the shop the other day and they were all mismatched top to bottom, unless they've been changed already in the bow you bought...... Mine and a few others I have seen only needed matched top and bottom the correct direction to tune at 0-0 on the rest and nock point 1/16-1/8" high of center.
 
#14 ·
I agree, mathews sucks when it comes to that. It should include tophats since they are NEEDED to tune the bow.
I don't agree that they should come with the mods as that's the way you order it though.
 
#15 ·
356Brutus said:
I agree, mathews sucks when it comes to that. It should include tophats since they are NEEDED to tune the bow.
I don't agree that they should come with the mods as that's the way you order it though.
Click to expand...
Considering that Mathews wants all work done by dealers, it makes sense that they wouldn't ship with the bows. Dealers have them in stock.
 
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#17 ·
I wouldn’t assume you’ll need a kit unless centerline varies by shooter (that very well may be the case for all I know). my P4 tuned with just swapping the tops. It’s my first top hat bow and when I mentioned buying a kit, the dealer told me not to waste my money because they’ve been tuning fine with the included hats. Glad I listened. Also possible I just got lucky.
 
#19 ·
zhickman said:
Just depends on if you don’t mind waiting I guess. For 50 bucks I’d rather have them available when your bow shows up. Probably use them in the future anyways. New set of strings, new arrow build etc.
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I'm confused, so I will ask. It has been my belief that centershot is centershot, when it's right it's right. Are you suggesting that a different string and cables or a different arrow build would require shimming the cams? I've not experienced that, I've been able to change strings and cables and arrows, as long as the spine is correct, without any tuning other than putting it back. By putting it back I mean getting the nock height and brace and ATA back where they were before the string and cable change. Am I missing something?

EDIT: cam timing also, hopefully this is obvious that it would need to be put back.
 
#20 ·
HsmithTX said:
I'm confused, so I will ask. It has been my belief that centershot is centershot, when it's right it's right. Are you suggesting that a different string and cables or a different arrow build would require shimming the cams? I've not experienced that, I've been able to change strings and cables and arrows, as long as the spine is correct, without any tuning other than putting it back. By putting it back I mean getting the nock height and brace and ATA back where they were before the string and cable change. Am I missing something?

EDIT: cam timing also, hopefully this is obvious that it would need to be put back.
Click to expand...
Your a better man than most then. That floating yoke plastic piece alone can change everything if you don’t get it in the exact same position. I’ve probably done about 8 changes on Mathew’s and never had them tune exactly the same. Your specs will also somewhat vary depending on how strings and cables were built. Also your Top Hat config has way more to do with the particular limb configuration on a particular bow than it does with how you shoot the bow.
 
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