[bucks/bulls]

From throat of nock to end of carbon is the correct way to measure..now the length you want is up to you...target shafts are fine just a tad longer than rest,but huntn shafts you generally want atleast 1"-1 1/2 past the rest so your broads stay infront of your hand..

 

[1955]

target shafts are fine just a tad longer than rest,but huntn shafts you generally want atleast 1"-1 1/2 past the rest so your broads stay infront of your hand..

I have to disagree with your assessment of how long your hunting arrows should be. I trust that the bow hunter is not SO stupid, that they'll somehow (and I have no idea how this can be done) put their hand in front of the bow and hit it with an arrow/broadhead! I believe that the most important thing is to have a well tuned arrow/bow, so you get the best results between field points and broadheads. To me, that usually means the shorter the arrow the better.


PS. My draw is 27.5 and my arrow length is 25.75.

 

[TEXAS 10PT]

Throat of the nock to the end of the arrow is correct. The length of the arrow will be determined by draw length, draw weight, weight of broadhead and spine of arrow you are using. Your goal is to get the spine perfect in relation to what I just mentioned assuming your bow is tuned correctly and your center shot is spot on.

TEXAS

 

[SHPoet]

I have to disagree with your assessment of how long your hunting arrows should be. I trust that the bow hunter is not SO stupid, that they'll somehow (and I have no idea how this can be done) put their hand in front of the bow and hit it with an arrow/broadhead! I believe that the most important thing is to have a well tuned arrow/bow, so you get the best results between field points and broadheads. To me, that usually means the shorter the arrow the better.


PS. My draw is 27.5 and my arrow length is 25.75.

Really? I know that it HAS happened. You also can not guarantee against equipment failure.

 

[KMBH]

Texas and Bucks listed the correct measurement. see this link... http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_selection_guide_chapter_1.htm

But you need to be careful what you are using the measurement for. If you order arrows online, Lancaster for example, most vendors will ask you to specify carbon to carbon length. If you use an archery program, OT2 for example uses carbon to carbon length in the arrow spine calculation.

 

[DaneHunter]

PS. My draw is 27.5 and my arrow length is 25.75.

How is that even possible? My Draw is 27.5 and my arrows are 30 inches and just stick out past the riser. They are a little longer than needed but not that much longer.

 

[1955]

Really? I know that it HAS happened. You also can not guarantee against equipment failure.

You're right, there are no guarantees against equipment failures...so we guard against then as best we can. I keep my fingers/hand below the rise cutout, that way, the broadhead cannot hit me. I do not believe I'm doing anything risky at all.

 

[bucks/bulls]

You're right, there are no guarantees against equipment failures...so we guard against then as best we can. I keep my fingers/hand below the rise cutout, that way, the broadhead cannot hit me. I do not believe I'm doing anything risky at all.

So what happens if your one of those guys that shoots a mechanical head and it prematurely opens before shot?? Happens quite often regardless of whether its happened to you or not..

 

[ramboarhunter]

I have to disagree with your assessment of how long your hunting arrows should be. I trust that the bow hunter is not SO stupid, that they'll somehow (and I have no idea how this can be done) put their hand in front of the bow and hit it with an arrow/broadhead! I believe that the most important thing is to have a well tuned arrow/bow, so you get the best results between field points and broadheads. To me, that usually means the shorter the arrow the bett

PS. My draw is 27.5 and my arrow length is 25.75.

It seems that everytime I go to the classified looking for arrows ALL I can find are CROSSBOW BOLTS, I shoot a 28" draw and I don't want my target arrows less than 28". My Hunting arrows have to be at least 28.5" or 29". I only shoot REAL broadheads not the ones that MIGHT open on contact.

 

[1955]

So what happens if your one of those guys that shoots a mechanical head and it prematurely opens before shot?? Happens quite often regardless of whether its happened to you or not..

My hand/fingers are below the riser cutout. I don't care where it opens, it will NOT hit my hand or fingers.

Honestly...what is your hand/fingers doing in the path of the arrow. I intend NO insult here at all, but it seems to me that MANY people here on AT must have a death grip on their bow! I have an open hand, with my fingers folded up, completely away from the front of my bow.


IF my Spitfire opened up early (it won't), it may bounce off my riser, but it will still NOT come near my hand.

Just took this...my form may not be perfect...I only had 10 seconds to assume the position (and NOT shoot my camera!!!). But it shows what I'm talking about. Blast away.

 

[KMBH]

How is that even possible? My Draw is 27.5 and my arrows are 30 inches and just stick out past the riser. They are a little longer than needed but not that much longer.

???? AMO DL is defined as True Draw + 1-3/4" (see the figure). True Draw is the horizontal distance from the arrow nock throat (bow string) to the deepest part of the grip at full draw. For most of the newer bows I have seen, this point is somewhere near or at the Berger hole (my Hoyts are in the center or rear edge of hole, my PSE is the front of the hole, Elite is actually in front of the hole, etc). So if his draw bows DL is 27.5, the rest hole is somewhere around 1-3/4" behind that (25.75"). And depending what rest, the rest will likely be a bit farther back still. So very possible.

 

[SonnyThomas]

And consider the arrow rest and short arrows. Prong style shoot through and limb driven rests have the arrow up so if the arrow is short the broadhead doesn't catch on the shelf. The majority of drop rests don't raise the arrow until the last inch or so and the broadhead could catch the shelf.

 

[kc hay seed]

being from the old school, for hunting arrows i draw the bow and mark the arrow at the front of the riser and add 1-1.5", for target i mark at rest and add 3/4" to that i had rather be safe than sorry any day. to each his own.

 

[1955]

And consider the arrow rest and short arrows. Prong style shoot through and limb driven rests have the arrow up so if the arrow is short the broadhead doesn't catch on the shelf. The majority of drop rests don't raise the arrow until the last inch or so and the broadhead could catch the shelf.

You're right, but at least with Ripcord, they say to cock the rest in the upright position before drawing. This is one of their selling points...it's now ready to shoot and the arrow is trapped. It wouldn't be any different with a whisker biscuit, and more people hunt with a whisker biscuit than any other rest.