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can you say magnus?
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246 Posts
yes sir, i love me some snuffers and buzzcuts. im just a little nervous about whackin a bull moose with a 2 blade. am i wierd? ok dont answer that. i was also wondering if i should go to 125 grainers, which would also mean id have to go to a .300 spine arrow.
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3,967 Posts
Muzzys are what me and my family and friends all use for Elk and none of us have ever had an issue with them.you dont need to jump to 125s.
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19,982 Posts
two bladers are best for the big critters, with your rig your current set up would be fine, 80lb burner is packine serious ke.
a heavier arrow with heavier point would be fantastic, especially on bone.
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685 Posts
I would not shoot anything but the G5 Stryker. Took my Black Bear down fast!!
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1,188 Posts
Dont worry so much about gear, just hit your mark IMO. FWIW I killed my elk with a 60lb bow and a Grim Reaper at 60 yds.
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246 Posts
cant use mechanicals in alaska, so fixed is the way im goin. how heavy do you think? i can get up to about a 500 grain arrow w/ the easton axis if i work hard on it.
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3,864 Posts
Throw a 100 grain insert in it and you should get closer to 600. I'm shooting 80 lbs with 200 grains up front including a 150 grain silverflame. Total arrow weight is only 550 grains and I'm going to attempt to bump that up a little more this summer. When your shooting this much ke you need a very solid head or you have a good probability of curling a tip or breaking a blade if you hit something solid. I've been extremely happy with my silverflames but you could also consider a Simmons landshark or an abowyer.
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i agree with the abowyers, tough and easy to resharpen. also, grizzly el grande's are good, but hard to get an edge on the first time. the abowyers are wicked sharp out of the box! at 80 lbs, you need a stiff arrow......300 minimum spine. like ******, said, look at the EFOC thread, tons of knowledge and tests.
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2,217 Posts
your set up is just fine. Put on a slick-trick 100 grain and be done. they fly as good as any head (and better than any Ive ever shot) including expandables, as previously stated expandables are illegal in Alaska for moose. Strikers fly nice, ive used them but do not recommend them for moose, because their blades break out pretty easily. They are the old standard design with a tiny little tit that 'locks' under a washer. The slick trick on the other hand have two (double) blades that lock together through th ferrel. It is virtually impossible for them to loose a blade. Plus locking the two (double) blades together you get a four blade head. Just speaking from my experience, and for the record I lost a blade on a striker on a caribou....not very impressed with their durability.
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1,094 Posts
Best Advice so far :thumbs_up
I hunt elk only, and have taken 5 bulls (compound) and one cow (recurve) in the last 7 years, which is no "Seen it all, been there, done that" kind of expertise, but enough to know what will up odds of success and what will handicap a hunt for large game.
You can't extrapolate Whitetail experience to Elk/Moose. They are not large Whitetail, they are 4x to 6x tougher in every way; thicker hide, thicker bones, more blood volume, thicker fat to plug holes, 24+" to penetrate the entire chest cavity, etc. If you can't bury the arrow at least to the fletching, you've likely got a bad situation on your hands.
Unless you have a short DL, like 27" or less, I believe the Axis N-Fused 300s would be weak for your setup. Even if they tune OK and shoot accurately, a weak spined shaft will flex more on impact and rob penetration potential. It may not be an issue on Whitetail with a 14" chest thickness, but it is a handicap not needed on Elk/Moose.
You might want to consider the GT Kinetic BG200 with more point weight (18% FOC) for Moose, and something around 14% -15% FOC for Elk, especially if your DL is 29+".
I've had bad experience with 2-blade BHs with only .045" main blade thickness unless the tip is triple reinforced. Even with a recurve, on quarter shots they tend to bend, applying a shaft-shattering torque. This might not happen in every situation, but the fact that it does happen can lower the odds of a successful hunt. I only use 2-blade heads with .070" thick Stainless Steel main blades.
For 3-blade and 4-blade broadheads, those with the steel or Titanium ferrules, .032" or thicker blades that have solid locking, and Trocar or Mod-Trocar tips have better integrity. I use the discontinued RM Ti 125 with one-piece titanium ferrule and have taken three bulls with the same ferrule, but the .030" blades are its Achilles heel ... so I'm looking to upgrade to something strudier.
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940 Posts
I have a similar setup @ 70 lbs but use a 200 gr silverflame broadhead shooting .300 spine Easton's FMJ........My arrow weight is at 585 gr.
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