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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We've had a lot of folks ask about our clubs repaired targets... This time we added dye to the foam to save us some painting.

We repaired 16 Reinhart inserts and a REALLY big hole in a McKenzie lion. Not bad for less than $300 of material and saved the club at least $3,000!!!!
Wood Art Clay Artifact Sculpture

Sculpture Wood Table Flooring Artifact

Artisan Wood Art Table Hat

Wood Art Circle Concrete Landscape

Wood Rectangle Automotive tire Art Font


We recorded a portion of a "How to" video tonight... so this is kind of a teaser....

We used this stuff again.... as near as we can tell, it's the same stuff Reinhart uses...

 

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Reign 6, Reckoning 35, Hamskea, HHA, MBG, Tight Spot, Illumapin, Shrewd, Stan, Carter
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Excellent. Is it recommended that it be cut out? I suppose a clear plastic wrap is applied before its poured so the mold can also be removed after its shot out??
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Excellent. Is it recommended that it be cut out? I suppose a clear plastic wrap is applied before its poured so the mold can also be removed after its shot out??
Yes, the clear plastic wrap is used to create the other side of the mold.

We tried just pouring into the holes created from too many arrows in the same spot.... We found the best long term repair is to cut away any material that you can push an arrow through with your hand... Some targets we cut out the entire 10 ring. Others, just the 11 ring. (I hope this part of the video makes it through the editing)

Once everything cures, we pull the plastic off and trim with an old fillet knife. Then shape with a flapper wheel on a grinder. (always do the flapper wheel outside because it makes a helluva mess)

What size packaging of the Smooth-on did you use?

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We did all of those repairs with a 1 gallon kit!!!!
 

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Yes, the clear plastic wrap is used to create the other side of the mold.

We tried just pouring into the holes created from too many arrows in the same spot.... We found the best long term repair is to cut away any material that you can push an arrow through with your hand... Some targets we cut out the entire 10 ring. Others, just the 11 ring. (I hope this part of the video makes it through the editing)

Once everything cures, we pull the plastic off and trim with an old fillet knife. Then shape with a flapper wheel on a grinder. (always do the flapper wheel outside because it makes a helluva mess)



We did all of those repairs with a 1 gallon kit!!!!
Ahh. I understand the plastic wrap to "contain" the material BUT what I attempted to convey was...would "lining" the entire cavity...essentially making a "bowl" made of plastic wrap allow the core to dry (obviously) and allow the core to be removed once shot out again. So...shoot the repaired section and just pop it out and repair again w/o taking a recip saw to it again. Follow? Tough to explain via text. I apologize.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ahh. I understand the plastic wrap to "contain" the material BUT what I attempted to convey was...would "lining" the entire cavity...essentially making a "bowl" made of plastic wrap allow the core to dry (obviously) and allow the core to be removed once shot out again. So...shoot the repaired section and just pop it out and repair again w/o taking a recip saw to it again. Follow? Tough to explain via text. I apologize.
I see what you're saying... We haven't tried to create an "insert within the insert". When the targets need repaired, we just cut them out and refill them.

Note - We haven't had shot out any of the targets that we've repaired. This foam should last at least as long as the original target foam so repairs should last for years, especially if you rotate your targets often.
 
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I see what you're saying... We haven't tried to create an "insert within the insert". When the targets need repaired, we just cut them out and refill them.

Note - We haven't had shot out any of the targets that we've repaired. This foam should last at least as long as the original target foam so repairs should last for years, especially if you rotate your targets often.
Appreciate the reply. I've been thinking since my reply...it may be more difficult to remove the core using my method as described above due to many "voids/small cavities" within the repair walls. Eventually it would likely have to be cut out. You're correct, it would take many, many arrows, and even years to wear out the repaired section. Interesting stuff, for sure and saves a club a few thousand bucks as 3D targets/replacement cores are ridiculously expensive these days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Appreciate the reply. I've been thinking since my reply...it may be more difficult to remove the core using my method as described above due to many "voids/small cavities" within the repair walls. Eventually it would likely have to be cut out. You're correct, it would take many, many arrows, and even years to wear out the repaired section. Interesting stuff, for sure and saves a club a few thousand bucks as 3D targets/replacement cores are ridiculously expensive these days.
This is why I shared this!!! As inflation gets worse, money doesn't go near as far as it should.... I assume there are a lot of clubs out there that are in the same "place" as mine is... We had to either find a way to increase revenue or decrease spending.

We were struggling try to find a way to buy enough inserts (plus the last few new inserts we ordered took 6 months to get to us) to keep our weekly shoots going.... Then we discovered this stuff (with the help of one of our members)...It's been an excellent product and the company is easy to deal with!!!!
 
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How much would you guess you would need to make a standalone cube target? Seems like it would be fairly easy to make a plywood frame and pour it similar to concrete.
Flex Foam It 15 (15lbs/cf)can do 460ci. Do the math on a 18x18x18 cube. A larger kit would make a great cube, imo, and be more as durable as one purchased off the shelf.
 

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Once everything cures, we pull the plastic off and trim with an old fillet knife. Then shape with a flapper wheel on a grinder. (always do the flapper wheel outside because it makes a helluva mess)

Like 1/2 Bubble Off noted.It's best to remove all weak foam. I use a jig saw with 4" blade and a sharp pointed bread knife does wonders.

I've been repairing targets since 2000 - well over a 100. Instead of flapper wheel I use a horse rasp. Yes, horse rasp - two side to them - rough and fine. Either one sure take the hide off your fingers or hands. Nice about it is the mess is contained to where your filing, not flying all over.

I also use truck tire inner tubes instead of plastic wrap. More sturdy and most times re-useable. Just cut to size needed.

Not too many clubs around me that can't afford replacement centers. I haven't been repairing much anymore.

Flex Foam has a Trail size I've yet to order. Don't know how much it will fix and one club has one target they'd like repaired.
Didn't see it, but Flex Foam has lots colors to choose from.

Contact Flex Foam and they will tell of a dealer close to you.

3D Country has great foam, but on the expensive side. Don't think I'll ordering from them again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did you order online or from a local supplier? I looked around the York area and didn't find any. Thanks

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We got it right from the manufacturer. They make it here in the Lehigh Valley.

We're going to do another 1 gallon kit this (and every other) Thursday until all of our targets are repaired. So we have all winter to paint and do the touch ups...
 
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Yup, smooth-on is a great company. Worked with their stuff for many years doing prototype casting/ molding/ machining work. I drive by the place every day to go to work. Only 5 minutes from my house.
 
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