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Alright guys, Im looking at arrows now and have some more questions for you field/fita arrow gurus:wink:

-Can anyone explain to me what the series means on the a/c/e??? There is a guy here selling some that he says are a/c/e shafts, but g series??? What does that mean??? Are they a/c/g's or is that something different?

-What shaft would be a better overall setup... a 370 a/c/e with 120gr. points, or a fmj navigator 400 with 100 gr. points.

-Also, what are the diameters of the a/c/e and navigator? od btw

Thanks again all... Im trying to learn this stuff still and I know that arrows are one of, if not the most important part:confused:

Also, do they make inserts/outserts for the a/c/e and navigator that you could put in and use screw in tips with?

Im asking b/c a guy on here has an abundance of both of these shafts in the fita section and im thinking, if I buy a whole bunch, I could just use some of them for the woods since they are quite cheap compared to new. Still not cheap by any means, but Im thinking I may be able to kill 2 birds with one stone here:darkbeer: If not, oh well...

Thanks again

Derek
 

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First....get the shooting them in the woods thought out of your head....that isn't gonna happen.

The G is a weight code....if you buy G's then you can order that series later and have another matching set.

Navigators are fatter by a touch then ACEs are...each arrow in each spine size is a different diameter though. Your gonna need to look at the arrow chart.

Navigator full metal jackets are a great field shaft....but they are also a lot heavier then ACEs are. But they are a lot more durable.

As for which one I would go with....which ever one is a better spine match...
 

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Thank u mr hornet. I will go. Ahead and get the woods out of my head. It was more of me justifying buying them than needing them than anything.

They shoud be real close in spine but I will check later
 

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y'all gotta stop tryin to make this game harder than it is.

you havent been presented with ALL of the variables on a course and you're worryin about stuff that wont get you any more points if you cant adjust to as many as possible.

what WILL get you more points? knowing how your equipment works. being intimately familar with your bow, arrows and all the other gear will give you more of an advantage than having top dollar equipment.

the archer with not quite matching gear that puts em in the 5 will ALWAYS do better than the archer with top of the line, everything is perfectly matched-peaked performance who shoots em in the 4 and 3 rings.
 

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y'all gotta stop tryin to make this game harder than it is.

you havent been presented with ALL of the variables on a course and you're worryin about stuff that wont get you any more points if you cant adjust to as many as possible.

what WILL get you more points? knowing how your equipment works. being intimately familar with your bow, arrows and all the other gear will give you more of an advantage than having top dollar equipment.

the archer with not quite matching gear that puts em in the 5 will ALWAYS do better than the archer with top of the line, everything is perfectly matched-peaked performance who shoots em in the 4 and 3 rings.
Really??? I was under the impression that money buys points??? I guess not! I'll just go ahead and use my 26's for fita...

On a serious note, if u don't have anything to help me with regarding the forementioned arrows, u need not comment. I am not new to this game of competitive archery nor am I new to the concept that money and looks don't win in any sport... Well... Most of them any way.

I came to field forum humbly bc I have no field experience. Never said I don't know about arrows in general, just not field/distance arrows. I asked for help on this particular thing bc I already have it narrowed down to these, not bc I need some lesson about competitive outdoor archery from someone that has no idea of myself.

Have a nice day rock. Hope the wind doesn't blow u off that pedestool...
 

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Take it easy guys...this is the field forum, not GenPop...
 

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Take it easy guys...this is the field forum, not GenPop...
Yeah sorry. Just reread my post and realized I took it a bit far. It happens to all of us:embara:

any more input on arrow preferance is appreciated. I'm going to use this setup for 3d as well. I'm just looking for a combo that I KNOW is good. If I was thinking that money would buy points I certainly wouldn't be looking at skinny shafts;). I have been using fatboys outdoors and they were great at normal distance, but i want something a little better at long distance bc I really just enjoy shooting distance.
 

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the higher the FOC, generally, the better long range performance. as arrow speed bleeds off, a low FOC with heavy fletching will make the nock end sink below the point. the the arrow starts to change attitude and create a positive angle of attack (AoA) and 'float'. accuracy is then, for lack of a better term, hit and miss. 13 to 16% should be plenty good.

FIELD is not FITA. it is rare to shoot a majority of the targets in the open. yes, the NFAA has FITA type games, but FIELD isnt one of em. unless you're shooting in a tornado, wind drift isnt a major issue. the trees and terrain help with that. one to think about, but not one to be sitting there with a slide rule to figure it out.
 

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the higher the FOC, generally, the better long range performance. as arrow speed bleeds off, a low FOC with heavy fletching will make the nock end sink below the point. the the arrow starts to change attitude and create a positive angle of attack (AoA) and 'float'. accuracy is then, for lack of a better term, hit and miss. 13 to 16% should be plenty good.

FIELD is not FITA. it is rare to shoot a majority of the targets in the open. yes, the NFAA has FITA type games, but FIELD isnt one of em. unless you're shooting in a tornado, wind drift isnt a major issue. the trees and terrain help with that. one to think about, but not one to be sitting there with a slide rule to figure it out.
Thank you sir. Like I said, when I came in here a few weeks back, I wouldnt have honestly been able to tell you the difference between field and fita other than distance is in both... I had no idea that field was in the woods most of the time:embara::confused: We just dont have anyone around here that I know that shoots field. Its mostly asa or indoors around these parts concerining the actual competing archers...

I figured with the two forementioned arrows that the a/c/e would have a higher foc considering ilts 120gr. tip weight... I think im gonna go with them b/c it seems to be the consensus from everyone ive asked that they are the better arrow between it and the navigator.
 
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