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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,
I had an old Darton CPS that did this same thing.

I've got this Hoyt with QAD rest shooting bullet holes through paper so it probably is no concern, BUT...
At full draw the nock is noticably low, with the arrow appearing to be pointing up.
If I eyeball it and move the nock to where the arrow is level at full draw, the arrow tears an obvious nock high. Lower the nock, it tears bullet holes again but appears nock low at full draw.

It does fly my muzzys good at 25 yards. Should I just leave it and worry about it after bow season? Is this normal?
 

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J Buck is prolly right. Check the timing of the cams at full draw and let us know what you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It appears that both cams are rotated evenly at full draw. I get a solid back wall with little to no mushyness.

Is this not a normal thing for 1.5 cam bows?
 

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No... your cams may be in draw stop time... but it sounds as though they are not in rotational sync.... That is the main cause of nock travel...:mg:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh. Now what?
I don't know much more than to look at the strings on the holes on the cams to indicate it is "in time". I'm sure this is a rough estimate. And tiller is correct. Other than that, I need some help!
 

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I just took a look at the list you have... The Quad likes a nock high... somewhere around a 1/4"... My guess is there may be several issues here... one may be your adjusting to shoot a bullet hole. There are times when that isn't the best...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Javi I have your Hybrid Cam Sync & Timing article and will go through those steps and see what is up.

Last thing you mention "finally I use the hybrid cam creep tuning method"

Where can I find a description of how to do the creep tuning?

thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for the Creep Tuning Info.

So would you predict if I take all the steps to synchronize and time the cams, then my nock point on the string would be moved up at full draw and I would get good arrow flight? And as I understand the QAD rest should even have the nock above the centerline.
 

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OverMyHead said:
thanks for the Creep Tuning Info.

So would you predict if I take all the steps to synchronize and time the cams, then my nock point on the string would be moved up at full draw and I would get good arrow flight? And as I understand the QAD rest should even have the nock above the centerline.
Unless you have other issues like incorrect spine, fletching contact, rest timing problem, hand placement problem or mechanical problem then yes the nock should end up between 1/16 and a 1/4" high with the quad rest.
 

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JAVI said:
Unless you have other issues like incorrect spine, fletching contact, rest timing problem, hand placement problem or mechanical problem then yes the nock should end up between 1/16 and a 1/4" high with the quad rest.
14,000 posts and he still thinks he knows what he is talking about :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Starting over tomorrow!

JAVI said:
Unless you have other issues like incorrect spine, fletching contact, rest timing problem, hand placement problem or mechanical problem then yes the nock should end up between 1/16 and a 1/4" high with the quad rest.
I must be having these other issues.
to get the arrows to fly half decent, at targets or though paper at multiple distances 3-12 yards), the nock point is at least 1/4" below center and the arrow is pointed in an upward direction...this brings it periously close to and/or causes fletch interference.

I tuned the cams so I have 1) even tiller 2) solid perfectly timed draw stop and 3) the cables are equal in their respective reference holes. It all looks fine. But it shoots an awful tear high through paper and puts bare shafts in the dirt, way low of field points. Muzzys shoot low.

Help me here eliminate the possibilities...

Spine? I'm using Easton Carbonaeros Carbon Epic 400 and Carbon Excel 400 with 29" draw up to 65 pounds 100 grain tips 389 gr total weight with 4" vanes. I don't have a chart for these particular Eastons, but the ST Epic 400s are good from 50-70 pounds in this draw length.

Fletching contact? very minor, and only because the dang nock point is so low. If I have the nock point where it looks like it should be, NO contact. when I lower the nock to where I eliminate most/all the tail high tears at all yardages, possible light contact.

Rest Timing Problem? I'm dumping the QAD and gonna try a Trap Door or a WB I have lying around. Maybe this problem developed since I put on the QAD, I dunno. I did try lenghtening or shortening the cord on the QAD to no avail.

Hand Placement? I'm using the grip recommended here, knuckles at a 45 degree angle to the ground, throat of the grip in the meat between the thumb and forefinger, no palm or heel contact.

Mechanical problem? Everything seems to be in time.

Can someone check my spine for me?
Otherwise I'll try the other rest or rests tomorrow.
Greatly appreciate the help.
This bow will be crackerized in the next year for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
28" from the insert to the string groove.
I had the bow on the C draw adjustment but moved it to D to tune...and left it there. I'm not too stretched out, I think the D is 29" with the #6 base cam.

do I need to start measuring string length or cables to see if they match the Hoyt tune chart?
 

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If your Muzzy broadheads are flying true then I would say shoot it!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
With the cams timed perfectly with Javi's help (tiller, draw stop and syncro), I've narrowed it down to a rest problem and will also turn down the bow to check for arrow spine issues. I'll try a trapdoor or WB today in place of the QAD.

For some reason I've had to lower nock point an unreasonable amount to eliminate a bad fletch high condition with my current setup.

Thanks for the help Javi and I will let you know what I find out this afternoon!
 

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Unless you have other issues like incorrect spine, fletching contact, rest timing problem, hand placement problem or mechanical problem then yes the nock should end up between 1/16 and a 1/4" high with the quad rest.
Javi,
What is it about that rest that requires a high nocking point? Is it the rest itself or do you find those setting typical of a drop away rest?
 
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