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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey I have some pictures of my finished nock. The nock in the picture is tne entire nock there is nothing glued or pressed into the arrow. It can be moved to anyone if my arrows without any changes and can be easily removed and replaced with a regular nock without any changes. also can be turned after it is inserted without any damage to light or arrow. It is a little bit harder to make( just a very little) but the advantages outway this by a bunch and it is very hard to wreck the light this way. So for those of you having trouble glueing the light into the nock should not be a problem this way. Still working on instructions easy to do hard to explain. Thinking about selling them on EBAY have some money and time invested in this and will have a lot more by the time I make instructions. BAD IDEA OR NOT? Also can be used with the twist on or the push and pull on lights so you guys that bought the wrong lights they can still be used.
 

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.....Thinking about selling them on EBAY have some money and time invested in this and will have a lot more by the time I make instructions. BAD IDEA OR NOT? ......
BAD. Mucho BAD. NEVER try to make money from something you like/love or a hobby. Pretty soon, it becomes WORK and not a hobby anymore. Remember? That's why we have Hobbies so we don't have to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey junkie if you have it all figured out why are you still making them the other way?
 

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Is anyone going to spill the beans as to how this "new and better" way to do these?
You can't just kiss us in the morning and just walk away.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
junkie sorry had a bad at work everyone was raining on my parade there and seems like you are doing the same here sorry man I know we are all here because we love archery.
I am working on the instructions as I write this but I have a family and a lot of distractions so I hope to be done with them soon. sorry for the wait hang in there.
 

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The sooner I get instructions, the sooner I can start selling them..Joking. I am interested in making some if they work better than the old way with glue. I've screwed a few up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thats the kind of talk that makes me think I should be selling them and once you figure it out not much harder to make than the other way and much more reliable. Working on getting instructions together like I said much easier to do than to explain when I am done and think they are good I will post (at least to some of you ).I will remember you easy. joking.
 

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It's all good. Didn't mean to come off in a bad manner. Wish you luck with them, but, we are special we are at'ers:wink: My local shop asked how fast would I be able to produce them. I am not 100% confident in my work for others, so I've not yet touched that. But my quiver is full and counting down the days.

Heck I may buy one from you an give ya a 100% pos feedback to get ya going!!!!!

Now you may return to your regular scheduled broacast.
 

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So if there is no shank glued to the battery, how does it turn on then? Mine activates when I shoot them by the nock pushing the button on while the shank gives it friction to stay put. Yours looks like you have to turn it on before you even nock your arrow.
 

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Now that I think about it. You could glue the light inside the shank of the nock. But drill out the back of it so the bulb/switch can poke all the way threw. So when the string snaps forward, it pushes the actual BULB itself and the counter resistance needed to hold the light still while the switch is being pushed(which used to be caused by the extra shank stuck tightly inside the shaft) is more securely held because it is on the actual nock.

Basically, instead of pushing the whole nock into the shaft to activate, it pushes the only thing that needs to be pushed, the bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
All I can say is there in lies the secret and no you dont have to turn it on first it turns on when shot. Your idea might work but I think the light will turn on as soon as you nock the arrow.
 

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How much ? I`ve messed with the other method and doesn`t work that well for me as I use aluminum arrows with the uni bushing or super swage and the glued on extra shank doesn`t have anything to grab to . So your method would surely work .
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes . they should work just as well in aluminum arrows with the unibushing as long as the knock is big enough to hold the light.
 

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lighted nocks

design look good can't wait to see the plans tired of paying 10.00/12.00 a nock at the archery shop
 

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very interesting, I make my own lighted nocks but using the old way of gluing light to nock and piece of nock to inside shaft. Mostly screwing the thill light ...so how it this new method works?
 

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Now that I think about it. You could glue the light inside the shank of the nock. But drill out the back of it so the bulb/switch can poke all the way threw. So when the string snaps forward, it pushes the actual BULB itself and the counter resistance needed to hold the light still while the switch is being pushed(which used to be caused by the extra shank stuck tightly inside the shaft) is more securely held because it is on the actual nock.

Basically, instead of pushing the whole nock into the shaft to activate, it pushes the only thing that needs to be pushed, the bulb.
This is a great idea for turning them on, but then how do you turn it off? There is not way to grab the little button and pull it out. Hopefully someone can shed some light on this "new way" of making these. I have made a few the old way and I would be interested in something better for sure.
 
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