[P&Y137]

Ok, let me start by saying I know very little about bow tuning. But, that's why I'm here. My bow (2003 Hoyt Protec) WAS shooting great, but I was getting some fletching contact with my Trophy Taker Shakey Hunter. I had great groups out to 50 yards and arrow flight was "dart-like". Yet, I had some streaking on my blazers indicating the fletching contact. So started reading. Read two threads about exactly where the release string on the TT should be tied into a Hoyt's cables as well as timing the rest to stand up in the last 1 to 1.5" of draw. I read that the release string should be tied into the cables 6 inches below the arm of the rest with Hoyt bows and mine was tied into my cable at only one inch under the arm of the rest. When I drew, the rest would stand upright about 3 inches before full draw. So I went to work, and retied and served the string 6 inches below the arm to time at one inch before full draw. Shot my bow and immediately noticed porpoising arrows. Then read about walk back tuning and center shot. Looked awesome! I started through that process as well. But I am having difficulty getting arrows to consistently group directly under a 20 yard bullseye as I walk back. Seems they're left one time, so I move my rest slightly right...then I have it perfect for a couple of groups. But then later groups end up right of the verticle line. Plus, my groups at 30, 40 and 50 have opened up as well. Used to shoot 2-3" groups at 30, and now am shooting 5-6" groups with "flyers" here and there way out the group. Still hitting a quarter at 20 yards quite regularly though, but can see the arrow still rolling as it makes its way to the target. Took my bow to the local archery shop, they "eyeballed" it and said "everything looks good"...must be you. It probably is, but I'm not shooting nearly as well as was. I know, should have left good enough alone...but just wanted it "right". Any thought on what I should do now?

 

[robk]

i sent you a pm see if that will help it usually ends up one of the things i mentioned
rob k

 

[RobVos]

My feeling that only 1" of "guidance" on a drop away is not sufficient. Others will argue this, but I feel it is correct, as do many others. There was a good post a while back on this where Pro1 and Field14 had some good input on this after testing. :zip:

 

[JAVI]

1.5" - 2.0" is the measurement I use... and I tie the pull cord 2"-4" below the rest... Here is a photo of one I'm setting up... at this point I haven't tied the small serving knot to preven the cord from moving ... but you should get the idea...

On some of the higher profile fletchings like the Blazers the is often contact with the little arm that the cord attaches to... for this reason I recommend you shoot cock vane down... but try it several ways to see which is best..

 

[LA Archer]

On my Hoyts I had the arm raise 2" from the end of draw. I did this by marking my arrow at full draw, then measure back 2" and mark arrow agian. Then I timed it to raise at the first mark. I shot blazers for a few days with mine cock vane up and had no problems, I just didn't like the blazers. Good luck

 

[P&Y137]

Update

Just raised my nock point about 1/8 inch and the rolling is gone. It also helped my up/down impact and 20 yards. Shooting across a 1 inch horizontal line, all my shots imact at relatively the same height. There's progress...Thanks robk!