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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my Mathews LX from a friend and had the cam changed from 30" to 28" draw length. I decided this because i have always shot 28" and my previous bow (High Country Safari) was set at 28". Also, measuring my 'wingspan' and dividing by 2.5 gave me 28" exactly. I'm wondering if my draw length may be too long though, and if it's not, what could I be doing wrong? My problem is that with this 'new to me' bow, it slaps my arm every time!! I am wearing long sleeves, but I'll be wearing more when I'm hunting with it, and it was never an issue before.

Some info more info for why I think my draw length may be too long: String slap EVERY SHOT, my anchor point is with my first knuckle resting on the back of my jaw bone (always has), and.... I guess that's it. What do ya'll think?
 

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Is your D loop longer on this bow than you last one? I have seen some well over 1/2" so that could be your issue. I don't have enough experience with mathews to make this a blanket statement, but my buddy has his Switchback set at 27.5" and it feels the same as my PSE Firestorm X set at 28". I think the LX cam can be set at 65% letoff and that should take up another 1/2 inch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No actually the loop looks shorter on this bow. And yes, I could go down to 27.5" with 65% let off. I'm planning on trying that. I just don't understand why this Mathews hits my arm/sleeve with the same draw length and anchor point as my old bow.
 

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No actually the loop looks shorter on this bow. And yes, I could go down to 27.5" with 65% let off. I'm planning on trying that. I just don't understand why this Mathews hits my arm/sleeve with the same draw length and anchor point as my old bow.
28-inch cam may have a too long bowstring,
so even with a 28-inch cam...

the actual draw length,
could be 1/4-inch longer than spec
could be 1/2-inch longer than spec
could be 3/4-inch longer than spec
and
you can still call this a 28-inch DL setup.

Try dropping the draw length down to the "27-5-inch setting",
and see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks! I've been reading some of your posts and looks like my anchor point is correct and looking more like my draw length is correct. (Now let me throw you a curve ball) The other variable in my form/shot is that I have 'double jointed' elbows. I've always shot with my elbows locked and rolled out, I've tried recently with my arm bent and it feels wrong, whether it is or not, but just doesn't feel right. The reason I say that my draw length is correct is because I've always anchored with the string on the tip of my nose and my knuckle at the back of my jaw bone. I would still like to try a 1/2" shorter draw length. Just wish I had a bow press so I didn't have to take it somewhere all the time...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, after reading some posts and doing some more thinking (also after calming down from getting aggravated with the string slap), I noticed my anchor has changed! The string is still on the tip of my nose, but my knuckle is farther back. The release is not too long, if anything it could be too short, the trigger falls just behind my first joint. I'm thinking my draw length is a little long... Sure wish I could take a picture of myself and post it. Hard to do without help.
 

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Thanks! I've been reading some of your posts and looks like my anchor point is correct and looking more like my draw length is correct. (Now let me throw you a curve ball) The other variable in my form/shot is that I have 'double jointed' elbows. I've always shot with my elbows locked and rolled out, I've tried recently with my arm bent and it feels wrong, whether it is or not, but just doesn't feel right. The reason I say that my draw length is correct is because I've always anchored with the string on the tip of my nose and my knuckle at the back of my jaw bone. I would still like to try a 1/2" shorter draw length. Just wish I had a bow press so I didn't have to take it somewhere all the time...

Bow draw length setting correct
and
facial anchor touch points correct
are....

TWO separate things.

So,
the double jointed elbows are a NEW piece of information.


So,
first,
let's talk about the facial anchor point reference points.

Yes,
having the bowstring touch certain spots on your face is a good thing...

having the nock touch a certain spot on your face is a good thing...

having the knuckle(s) on your release hand touching your face is a good thing...


the bow draw length setting,
really only sets the distance of your grip to your face.

You can have a bow draw length setting that is 2-inches "too long",
and you can STILL hit all the facial anchor touch points.

Your body posture will be way out of whack,
your weight will be heavy on one foot,
and
you will have difficulty shooting uphill and downhill shots (e.g, treestand).

If you always shoot indoors, on level ground,
leaning back really is not a problem.


Portable bow press is a good investment.


Locking out your "double jointed" elbows is repeatable,
and if this is what you have always done...

then,
continue to do so.


I would recommend what we coaches call an "open stance".

This means,
a SHORTER draw length setting,
which means...
I would like to see the bow riser CLOSER to your face, so that
when the arrow is pointed at your target,

then your shoulders are pointed to the left of your arrow flight path,
so you have MORE room
between the arrow and your bow arm,
and especially your double jointed bow arm elbow.
 

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Ok, after reading some posts and doing some more thinking (also after calming down from getting aggravated with the string slap), I noticed my anchor has changed! The string is still on the tip of my nose, but my knuckle is farther back. The release is not too long, if anything it could be too short, the trigger falls just behind my first joint. I'm thinking my draw length is a little long... Sure wish I could take a picture of myself and post it. Hard to do without help.
This makes sense.
 

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If your arm when locked is bent inwards in a hyper extended position, you are more likely to get slapped by the string. Is this what you are saying?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh yeah, I've always had to 'roll' my arm out of the way to make sure it doesn't get hit. And I tried shooting while trying to force my arm straight, this seemed to make me unsteady (or worse than I was already anyway), like I was having to work at holding my arm straight. I'll have to get my draw length adjusted to the next spot on my bow (27.5") and see how that open stance works out for me.

Thanks again for all the help guys.
 

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My dad still has his mathews lx and he loves it. I've shot it before as well, great bow. good luck this season!!!
 
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