[CutTheLoop]

If you are certain everything else is to specs, first thing I would do is move rest slightly to the left(away from riser) and do a quick bare shaft and walk back tune.

Paper tuning ain't always what it's cracked up to be, IMO.


OnTarget shows those to be stiff, but short of Maximas, the Terminator Hunter 45/60 would have been my first guess as well for a 60# bow.

Best bet, would be to head over to the mathews forum and search for the "Vince Tuning Method"
There are a couple revisions.

http://forums.mathewsinc.com/viewtopic.php?t=43030

pay particular attention to the idler section.

 

[lanole]

Thanks for the links. Any other ideas?

 

[Hidden Danger]

looks like maybe your string and cable may not be on the right rollers on the roller guard. kind of crossed up and that is why your string is coming off idler wheel with some extreme lean. just my opinion:wink:

 

[pooter]

crossed up

looks like maybe your string and cable may not be on the right rollers on the roller guard. kind of crossed up and that is why your string is coming off idler wheel with some extreme lean. just my opinion:wink:

Hello...the string and cable is correct.

 

[pooter]

maybe poundage

Main problem: arrows hitting to right of aim point, sight windage maxed out to the right. Recently put new WC string and cable, G5 ME sight, and Limbdriver pro rest on bow.

Equipment: 2006 Mathews Switchback XT 60 lbs, 28" draw, release aid and d-loop, Carbon Express Terminator Lite Hunter arrows 4560 cut to 27", 4" duravanes with right helical.

Action taken so far: I set the center shot with a laser centershot tool, paper tuned rest adjustments, centerline of arrow is now about 1/16" abover berger threads centerline, tuned yoke to get ata to 31 1/8" on both sides (9 twists on left (red) and 12 twists on right (blue)).

Any ideas? Here are some pics. Groups were shot at 20 yards with three fletched arrows and 2 bare shafts. Pic with one of each was shot at 40 yards. Paper tune was done at about 8 feet. Point of aim was second dot from left and second dot down on target. I'm really stumped on this one.

Hows it going?...I have had that problem before on a couple of bows where i would have my aim point and sight lined up and then i would try to put more LBS. on the bow and i would have to move my pins to the left and thats not good so i would back it back down and they would line back up, and it was still within the arrow chart,

Just a thought.

 

[lanole]

I think I've narrowed it down to idler wheel lean. I added 6 more turns to the right side of the yoke and I can lay an arrow across the idler now and it ends up about 1/8" off the string at the nock. Before the arrow actually crossed behind the string. I do have the bow maxed out right now. I may try backing it off a round or two.

 

[red44]

You've set the idler/yokes so the ata was even on both sides, but how does the idler look at full draw?

 

[Hidden Danger]

sorry . I was using my outback as an example and his switchback does not look right .Is there that much of a difference between the two bows?

 

[red44]

The cable should be on the bow arm side as it is in the pic.

 

[Hidden Danger]

The cable should be on the bow arm side as it is in the pic.

not on my outback. string is on the bow arm side which is a silver roller and the cable is on my release arm side which is black. my bow maybe wrong.

 

[Hidden Danger]

Awesome post guys . Helped me find a problem on my own bow that I did not even know I had . Taking it back to the shop today to have them fix it .Wish I had a bow press so I could do it myself . I'm tired of having people work on my bow that obviously don't have a clue or just don't care .

 

[lanole]

Hence the reason for my post. I no longer trust the guys at my shop. Doing it all myself.

 

[lanole]

Alright, I'm getting there with this bow. I've gone back trying to get everything as close to spec as I can. I reset my rest CS to 13/16" off the riser. Right now my ATA is 30 31/32", my BH is 7 19/32", but my CT is towards the riser pretty bad. How do I need to twist the string and cable to get CT back parallel to my string and keep everything else close to spec? Also when twisting the string, I know you have to balance out the number of twists on each end. If I want to add four twists to the string, does 2 twist on each end equal 4 twists or would you twist both ends 4 rounds?

 

[red44]

Yes, two on each end will equal 4 total. On the switchback the preference goes to the ATA, don't worry much about BH. If the CT is towards the riser you want to twist the cable or untwist the string.

 

[lanole]

Well, it took most of the day today, but I finally have the Switchback set to factory specs. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone on who replied for their help. It took a lot of trial and error, but now I feel confident I can maintain my bow without relying on a shop. It shoots much beter now. Before this week I had no idea what idler wheel lean, cam timing, and yoke tuning was. Next up will be some walk back tuning tomorrow to really dial it in. Thanks again guys.