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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all. Brand new to AT. First post. Not sure where to put my cock vane in relation to the mark I made on my arrow shafts. I used a dial indicator to mark where the stiffest position was on the shaft. I would spin the arrow till I got the highest reading and make a mark on the top of the shaft. All that being said, where do I orient my cock vane in relation to the mark? FYI, I'll be shooting these arrows out of a Triax 70#/28"75% with a QAD Ultrarest HDX. Thanks in advance!
 

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The highest number would denote the greatest deflection. Which would make it the weakest point on the shaft.
The spine would be located at 90 degrees to the greatest deflection and runs completely through the shaft in a solid plane. The same can be said for the weak plane, it runs entirely through the shaft. This is why the spine is at 90 degrees to the weak plane.


GRIM
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That makes sense. So where do I put my cock vane in relation? Sorry if it takes me a bit to understand this. I've been shooting a bow for 25 years and never worried about spine orientation. Lol So this is all new to me.
 

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Most put the nock vane over the spine plane but it can be located at other points to achieve different goals.
Most notably some rests may require you to place the cock game other than vertical.


GRIM
 

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So im surprised more shooters have not chimed in. So you can poll 10 archers on this subject and get a debate that would never end.
So now that you have indexed the arrows to weak/strong spine, the FUN starts. So you can place your cock feather on the weak spine, you can place it on the strong spine, weak spine out, weak spine in, you can 4 fletch them.......... The key is to continue to build the arrows all in the same manner. Just dont build 1 arrow weak out, 1 arrow vane on weak spine..........
 

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I don't think it really matters which way the weak side is oriented, as long as it is consistently oriented across all your arrows.

I usually mark my shafts and fletch them so they all face up (I shoot cock vane down.)

I haven't experimented with other positions, since this has yielded good results for me.

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I think with drop away rests is matters less than when we actually shot off a solid rest and a Berger button (ever wonder why it's called a Berger hole?), back then the arrows flexed horizontally around the riser off the Burger button which was a small plastic piston in a cylinder with an adjustable spring behind the button for some amount of cushion. Then some people swore it should go close to the riser to offset the horizontal deflection. Today with the drop away rests, we have the string hopefully pushing in a straight plane on the nock, but if you look at a high speed video of an arrow the string is moving a lot as the riser deflects, and possibly vertical nock travel too! Wow! since today you can easily rotate your nock and the drop away rest really doesn't matter if you have cable clearance, it's easy to test. I have found that the POI might change a little by changing the location of the spine, but the arrows group if they are all the same. I don't have a hooter shooter to test this theory, but it would be a great test.
 

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Just my .02 for the average archer(hunter) they aren't going to see any advantage. But if it makes you feel good nock yourself out.
 

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If spine tuning the arrows makes you more confident in your setup, then that is a very good thing to do. Confidence in your gear is very important in archery. Put the dot up and fletch away.

Lucky
 

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i was told years ago to put stiff side towards the inside of shelf. like others saud doesnt matter as long as they all the same. i have gotten lazy lately but when i make a set up i index my nock to same overlap of my leading edge of the graphic on shaft/ wrap. im not good enough to tell the difference. i shoot them out to 60 yards ( my max) and they seem to hit within 3" good enough for me. maybe on my next set i do i will spine test them
 

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I put dot on top then Fletch cock vane at 9 o'clock. For maximum clearance of cables. So 3 fletch.. 9... 1.. and 5 o'clock so to speak.
 

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Most importantly they all be fletched the same. Having said that I fletch mine such that the arrow flexes or bows straight up when shot. To each there own.


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Most importantly they all be fletched the same. Having said that I fletch mine such that the arrow flexes or bows straight up when shot. To each there own.


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Me also. I would rather have an arrow flex up and down rather then Left and right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just my .02 for the average archer(hunter) they aren't going to see any advantage. But if it makes you feel good nock yourself out.
So, assuming I'm average, I should not do anything to better my setup? That's why I joined AT. Hopefully I can get the advice (.02) I need to become better than average. Your .02 is no help to me. Thanks though.
 

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Here is another option, even though I am a math teacher and love numbers this is not something that I like to do with arrows and that is exactly what spine testing or indexing leads to. Using math to dictate my nock setting.

I use point of impact to dictate where I put my nock setting and then I fletch my arrows to that nock setting. Now, I personally use a hooter shooter to do my process and I can teach you how to do that with a shooting machine but I am going to assume that you don't have one.

So

1. Tune your bow so that it can shoot a bare shaft with really good arrow flight out to 20 yards
2. Take the bare shaft that you tuned your bow with and sight it in dead on at 20 yards.
3. Now, shoot the rest of them a couple at a time and turn the nocks until they all hit dead on at 20 yards.
4. Make pencil marks on the shaft near the nock so that you can fletch the arrow with this nock setting
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If spine tuning the arrows makes you more confident in your setup, then that is a very good thing to do. Confidence in your gear is very important in archery. Put the dot up and fletch away.

Lucky
I've said that for years! You can't put a price tag on confidence.
 

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Socket Man
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I have had many guys including my best buddy in the world who did the whole ram tester thing for spine indexing and purchased arrows from arrow makers that claimed their arrows were ram tested and indexed perfectly, to see these guys faces when we shoot their beloved arrows through the shooting machine and find out that they suck really bad is a awesome facial expression to see. Then 30 minutes later once I tune their arrows to the same hole accuracy at 20 yards they are happy again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here is another option, even though I am a math teacher and love numbers this is not something that I like to do with arrows and that is exactly what spine testing or indexing leads to. Using math to dictate my nock setting.

I use point of impact to dictate where I put my nock setting and then I fletch my arrows to that nock setting. Now, I personally use a hooter shooter to do my process and I can teach you how to do that with a shooting machine but I am going to assume that you don't have one.

So

1. Tune your bow so that it can shoot a bare shaft with really good arrow flight out to 20 yards
2. Take the bare shaft that you tuned your bow with and sight it in dead on at 20 yards.
3. Now, shoot the rest of them a couple at a time and turn the nocks until they all hit dead on at 20 yards.
4. Make pencil marks on the shaft near the nock so that you can fletch the arrow with this nock setting
After getting all the good feedback it sounds like indexing the spine is a good starting point. From there I will nock tune em' before I fletch em'. Thanks for the input.
 
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