[Slufoot]

Hello everyone, I just bought some Carbon Express Heritage 250 shafts. I'm going to fletch them with 5" RW shield cut feathers and will use a 125 grain field point for practice and 125 grain Phantom broadheads for hunting.
My bow is a left hand Martin Hatfield 55# that I draw right at 30 inches, so I'm guessing my draw wieght is close to 60#.

Here is my question, I would like to start shooting these arrows full length and then cut them back maybe 1/2" at a time until they fly true.
How can I install the aluminum inserts so that they will stay in place for shooting but be able to remove them and cut the shafts off alittle at a time until I find the right length.

The arrows I'm currently shooting are Easton XX-75, 2117 cut to 31 inches with 5" feathers and a 125 grain point.

Thanks!
GOOD SHOOTING!
Slufoot

 

[swamprat]

No problem at all:
Use the reversible hot melt glue. This glue can be re heated once used and the parts will come unglued.

Hot glue is good, but if your bow is too fast and the tips heat up a bit penetrating say dense foam, they will release with this friction heat and stay in the target. This is a usual problem with wheel archers as their rigs are much faster.

I use any ca glue and I can heat the ft gently and pull at the same time with vice grips and the ft and insert will release.

This all pertains to carbons.

 

[Slufoot]

Swamprat Thanks
I've got some hot melt glue that I've been using on my aluminum arrows. I can heat it back up and pull the inserts from them.
The paper that came with the carbon arrows said not to use hot melt glues because it can damage the carbon fibers.
What are your thoughts and recomendations?
Thanks!
GOOD SHOOTING!
Slufoot

 

[Donhudd]

Sluefoot

I have not shot recurves in many years but I thought I would lend a hand here. I looked at TAP to see effect of shortening the CX arrows in 1/2 inch increments. Tap shows them too weak. I went to Easton charts and they also show 2117 too weak.Easton arrow charts and TAP program both show your old and your new arrows are way too weak in spine. They both recommend a spine of about .305 at 31 inches and 125 grain field points. Your 2117 are .406 and the CX 250 are .385. The CX are only marginally stiffer than the 2117.

These calculations are make using 60# Recurve (Hatfield is a recurve isn't it), 30 inch draw, Dacron string, using fingers to release.

Maybe some one with recent recurve experience can help

 

[swamprat]

Never heard that hot melt damages carbon, but then I learn something every day.

Once you get the adjustments down, consider goat tough or steel force. They are all under the chemical componets of ca glue or commonly called krazy glue types. They work great and will never come off

Then, rub the threaded part of the field tip over your bow wax, run it up, snug it up with pliers, it will never come loose unless with pliers again.

Good Luck.

 

[ronbergeron]

the 250 shafts are pretty stiff but you do have a long draw so that will help. I say glue in your insert permenently then bare shaft tune and cut from the nock end. 1/4" at a time until they fly good without fletch. When that shaft flys good without fleching it will fly like a laser beam with fleching. You'll hear many, many ways to tune your gear, this is just one way. ron

 

[Slufoot]

Thanks for the tips folks!
Swamprat, I've never heard of rubbing the wax on the threads of the field points. I'll give it a try because I'm always retightening my points.
Ron, I haven't thought of tuning the arrows the way you described. Sounds to me like the best way to do it.
Thanks!

GOOD SHOOTING!
Slufoot