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Need Help With Jo Jan

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I've read many threads on here about this topic and I still can't get the results I'm looking for. Hoping you guys can help.
I have a Jo Jan Multi Fletcher with right helical clamps. I'm using Easton Legacy shafts, 2117. I shoot a Schafer Silvertip off of a Bear Weatherest. I've tried AAE Trad 40 and the Elite Plastifletch 40, but neither one are adhering like they should. I don't think it's a prep issue or a glue issue, because where the vane is in contact with the shaft the adhesion is good to great. The issue is no matter what I do to try to adjust the nock end or the shaft end of the jig, I'm not getting complete contact between the vane and the shaft. Almost every time it seems that the vane makes good contact in the middle, but not at either end. It also seems like the "trough" of the vane isn't really in line with the center of the shaft. It's more like one of the tips of the small "V" is in contact rather than both.

I've tried this about 30-40 times and I'm honestly tired of scraping and cleaning shafts to start over. If I can't figure this out I'm probably going to go with a different jig. Any tips that might allow me to figure this out with the Jo Jan?

Thanks in advance.
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You simply have to make adjustments until you get full vane base to shaft contact. Small adjustments are significant. When I fletch with a Jo-Jan I load a feather in each clamp and inspect for full base-to-shaft contact on each feather. Once OK remove each clamp, apply glue to feather set clamp confirm still good contact and go to the next arrow. Once set I've never had to re-adjust for the same size arrow. Make sure all the base screws are in place and tight.
 

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Grey -

Like 3 said, small adjustments and you really have to play with both the upper and lower adjustment bars. And yes, do the adjustments for optimal contact BEFORE adding the glue. AND, try Saunders NPV glue, it's a gap filling solvent and pretty much sticks to anything, BUT when using vanes, follow the instructions, and the vanes may have to be cleaned before using a solvent type glue.

Yeah, it can be finicky, or you could just switch to straight clamps with a small offset and never worry about it again (that's what I did).

Viper1 out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Grey -

Like 3 said, small adjustments and you really have to play with both the upper and lower adjustment bars. And yes, do the adjustments for optimal contact BEFORE adding the glue. AND, try Saunders NPV glue, it's a gap filling solvent and pretty much sticks to anything, BUT when using vanes, follow the instructions, and the vanes may have to be cleaned before using a solvent type glue.

Yeah, it can be finicky, or you could just switch to straight clamps with a small offset and never worry about it again (that's what I did).

Viper1 out.
Thanks to you both. I think I'm going to try a solvent based glue next. And I'm seriously considering straight clamps with an offset. That's all I've ever shot. This jig and clamps were a gift so I'm not complaining but I think straight clamps will be the ticket.
 

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Helical is a trial and error process as indicated by others. I use a fine tip marker to indicate settings so that I can make a measured amount of adjustment.
I also second the reommendation for NPV. I used Platinum Fletch-tite for years but found the NPV holds better and doesn't get brittle. Keep in mind that the fletching glues seem to have a life span once opened. Once they start to thicken, get a new one.
 

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Somewhere I read not to seat the vane against the edge of clamp. Then when you install it in jig push the clamp down which should seat the vane against the shaft. I do the feathers that way as well. Oh, never had much luck doing vanes and helical clamp even with my Blitzinburgers. I made dozens and dozens of arrows with vanes years ago with my JoJan and straight clamps. Like you said I offset them a little.
I wonder if better results with helical clamps could be had with the new AAE Trad Vanes? They are soft material. Then how does that combo work if a guy is shooting of the shelf?
 

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The AAE Tradvanes work well with shooting off of the shelf but lack the durability of feathers. Once one is rippled or nicked, they don't fly correctly. If you have a soft target and the arrow shoots through it the vanes are done. But feathers can be puled back againts the grain and continue to shoot well.
 

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I made dozens of dozens back in the 70's with a Multifletcher helical clamp. You just prep the arrow well...I used Comet cleanser on aluminum, rinsed and wiped dry with a dry cloth. Never had issues of vanes not adhering, and fact is you have to accound for the base on the shaft with adjustment. Do some dry runs until you see the surface even from front to back on the shaft. Really, patience and perseverance works with that. :) I used and still use Fletchtite on aluminum and have not had any issues if your using relatively fresh (not a year old) glue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Somewhere I read not to seat the vane against the edge of clamp. Then when you install it in jig push the clamp down which should seat the vane against the shaft. I do the feathers that way as well. Oh, never had much luck doing vanes and helical clamp even with my Blitzinburgers. I made dozens and dozens of arrows with vanes years ago with my JoJan and straight clamps. Like you said I offset them a little.
I wonder if better results with helical clamps could be had with the new AAE Trad Vanes? They are soft material. Then how does that combo work if a guy is shooting of the shelf?
I tried the Trad vanes. Found them even more difficult than the Elite Plastifletch vanes. I think I'm giving up on the Jo Jan. I spent two hours trying to adjust the jig alignment without glue. I couldn't get the helical clamps to align well at all. No Jo Jan straight clamps readily available. I ordered a Bitz that should arrive next week.
 

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Your experience is the same as a shop owner I knew back when. He tried using Blitzinburgers and helical clamps. But after a few customers brought back the arrows he made he switched to straight offset as well. 98% of his customers were wheel bow shooters. Of course a shop environment doesn’t make for switching jigs around each time for different diameter shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update, things are going much better. The straight clamp, 2 degree offset on the Bitz is so much easier than the helical on the Jo Jan. I'm sure it's a great tool, but I don't have the skill or time to develop the skill at the moment.

I've tried several cheap glues such as blue cap Gorilla, and the bond is great but I'm not quite happy with cleanliness of it. I think it's just a learning curve and figuring out how much glue to use. The last three I did were much cleaner than the first three. Still struggle to get the leading tip of the vane to sit flat, probably slightly too much offset for this arrow diameter. Going to glue the inserts tomorrow morning and hopefully go shoot Sunday evening. I'll post back with final thoughts on this first attempt.

Appreciate everyone's help.
 

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As to lead edge of vane not staying down. Yes , a very slight adjustment should help or try taking a pin and pressing that lead edge against the shaft. Just a thought. When I use my Blitzinburger for feathers I use the back side of my razor knife to press the quill to the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Everything seems to be working fine. Shot each arrow several times and no issues with fletch or nock adhesion. Arrow flight is great, like darts, so I think I have my new arrow build figured out.

I did notice that these new nocks I bought don't snap onto the string like my old nocks did. May not be a huge deal, but I do think I'll have to be much more careful when I'm in a tree and the bow is on a hook. I didn't realize that nocks have different throat configurations. Might try some different brands to find something I like better.
 
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