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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, i am new here and i need some help.

I've been shooting the old PSE Spyder (which is not mine) for 1 month and i decided to buy my own bow. I'm interested in target shooting and 3d. I was thinking of such bows as Hoyt Vantage elite, Hoyt Alpha elite, Bowtech Specialist, and i like new Hoyt Pro Edge elite very much. I am planning not to change a bow for a long time after purchase. Unfortunately, i have no opportunity to shoot a bow before buying. Is it worth spending a lot of money on a top-class compound if i am only a beginner in archery (but i have serious intentions), or should i look at cheaper bows? Which bow in your opinion will suit the beginner with far-reaching plans?)
Thanks in advance for your reply.

P.S. I'm a girl:smile:
 

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It's really going to depend on what you are willing to spend. I bought a top of the line bow right away, but I wouldn't say that's the goto move for everyone.
Also keep in mind that the bow is only the beginning. Even with a 1300$+ bow, it's very likely only going to be the first half of your expenses if you want the "good" accessories to match your bow. Imo there's no point in buying a top of the line target bow and then put a 45,- sight on it and shoot the cheapest arrows you can get your hands on.
The Pro Edge is not that much better than mid-priced bow.

How do you know you like the Pro Edge? By looks only? Is there no shop in close proximity where you can try some bows? Who's going to set the thing up for you? Especially the peep sight will be a tricky one without a shop or bow press at home.

Another thing to keep in mind is your drawlength. How certain are you that you know your correct draw length? You don't want to buy a bow that goes down to 27" without cam swaps when you have a 25.5" DL. Most PSE's have a long adjustment range without mods or even new cams, I think Bowtech as well but I'm not sure.

All of the bows you listed are great bows and very suitable for 3D (especially the Pro Edge, Alpha Elite and Specialist because they are a bit faster than your average target set up), but only you know if they are worth the money to you. And that's a very tough, if not impossible, decision to make without testing them.

You could also consider buying a used bow in the classifieds if you don't plan on going (or can't go) to a shop anyway.
 

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check out a Athens. athensarchery.com .
Athens has been producing some of the best bows on the market.
Athens has a full line of hunting and target bows.
Athens Custom shop and do just about any finish that you can think of.
Athens also has a lifetime transferable warranty.
and yes i am a staff shooter for Athens. but if i wasn't my bow of choice would not change.
 

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All solid bows that you mentioned...look at the classifieds so you're not spending a chunk out of the gate for something you may not like.

If you're set on Hoyt (as it sounds like) you can get late model AE's on here for a good price. They have speeds that are favorable to 3D and are solid units.
 

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I am a left handed short draw archer. I am not able to go into a pro shop and shoot different bows to find the one I like. I made some bad choices when I first started shooting, mostly wrong draw length. When I start shopping for a new bow, I look at axle to axle, brace height and draw length. I shoot indoor spots and field archery.If you are not sure which bow you want look in the classifieds for used it might save you some money.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your replies!

I know that i have to spend a lot on the good accessories and i'm ready for it. The only one thing which i was not sure about is the expediency of spending tons of money on a top bow if i am just a beginner, but, as i've already said, i'm gonna use it more, than one year. Indeed, it is very difficult to buy the bow without testing it, but i have no other choice, cause in my country the Pro Edges, Alpha Elites and other top target bows are not available for sale, i can only leave an order and then take my bow. That's why i need your advice, because i have to make the most effective choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As I understood, there is no huge difference between top and middle-class bows, so I need to test some which I like. I contacted nearest archery-shop, the Pro Edge will be available to test in 2-3 month. I'll wait until it appears in the shop and then I'll try to compare
 

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There's lots of really great bows out there. About the best you can do is just pick one that appeals to you and then take the time to learn it well and what makes it tick. Even if you had the chance to shoot all of them, just shooting a few arrows doesn't guarantee success. You have to learn a bow well for it to work for you. It needs to be about as natural to you as putting on a pair of socks. So many people go thru bows like candy mints trying to find the "Magic bow" that will do it for them. It's just not that simple.
 

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As I understood, there is no huge difference between top and middle-class bows, so I need to test some which I like. I contacted nearest archery-shop, the Pro Edge will be available to test in 2-3 month. I'll wait until it appears in the shop and then I'll try to compare
Oh there is a difference.
But a bow for 1500$ is not going to be twice as good as a bow for 750$.

If you're like me, go for the bow that seems the best to you. That might be the most expensive one, it might be the most appealing based on ATA length, brace height, cam system etc, or simply the prettiest of the lot.
One thing you definitely don't want to do is buy a bow that's not really what you had in mind and all the while looking at new rigs online, imagining how much better they'd shoot. They might not even be better. But it's hard to shake that thought and many people end up buying another bow after a while. That's why I'm not a huge fan of bows like Hoyt Charger for example. They might be just 5% "worse" than the models that are twice as expensive, but I know I could never get the top of the line models out of my head and would end up with a 2nd bow pretty quick.
 

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Of the ones you listed i would look at the specialist or vantage mostly because they have been out for a few years and can probably find far better deals on them. The hoyt has far better tournament stats but then there are tons more hoyts in tournaments. The bowtech would be easier to play around with dl on too find what works for you because it is a module based cam.

Too start i would look at any of the brands top shelf hunting bows in the 34-38 ata range that have been out a couple years such as a pse supra, hoyt alphamax/crx/ 34, elite tour, bowtech cpxl/specialist, etc since they are good do it all bows that would work well in any type of shoot until you figure out exactly what type of shooting you like to do, and all are probably in the 350-400 price range used.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Unclegus thanks for the sage advice!!!
Finq thanks, i'll test all available bows, and choose one which will seem best for me.
knarrly thank you very much!!!! I'll have a look at these bows. I've been already told to pay attention to the Vantage and Specialist.
 

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Consider a bow that adjustable draw modules. Starting out it may be a good idea to start with a bow that will let you adjust your draw .5" up and down from where you start.
The two makes I'd consider are Hoyt and PSE. The PSE Supra Max is a very good bow. The fact is you could shoot the Supra Max for many years and never be under gunned. I shot a pair of 60 X games recently with my 2012 Supra set up for BHFS (Bowhunter Freestyle). Last year I did well in 3D shooting a Phenom. The MSRP on the Phenom is only $699.

Do not skimp on your release! The last thing a newbie should do is to handicap himself with a second rate release. Use cheaper arrows, rest and sights before even thinking about saving $75 bucks on the release. All Stans and Carters are top of the line. The best Tru Ball and Scott releases are as good as anything made. The best releases last a lifetime.

Simple spring steel blade rests are the best for target shooting.


I just saw in your post that you are a girl. I don't know what your draw length is, mine is 26", but make sure whatever bow you get has a minimum draw length shorter than what you shoot. Many bows actually measure out to be longer than the marked draw length. I make sure all the bows I consider for purchase go down to at least a 25.5" draw and I prefer that they go shorter.

For 3D you want to consider bows that are a bit "faster".
 

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You can't go wrong with the Bowtech Specialist. Its very easy to tune, The letoff valley it short but that can be addresses but moving the draw stop back one hole. Or leave the draw stop alone and shorten up your DL by 1/2". Has good speed and is forgiving with the 7-1/4" brace height. The Draw cycle on it is smooth with no humps in the cycle and drops into the valley smoothly. If you want a lighter bow the Carbon Rose is a good choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Kstigall Thanks for the valuable information! i've heard many good things about the Supra max and Specialist (especially), i'll include it in my list! At the moment it looks like this:
the Bowtech Insanity, Specialist
the PSE Supra Max
the Hoyt Vantage elite, Alpha elite, Pro Edge elite
the Mathews Conquest Apex7
Still i'm more considering buying the Hoyt bow, but the situation should become clearer after i shoot some of the listed bows, so i have to wait until the Pro edge appears in the store. My draw length is 27.2", so i guess in case with Hoyt i should choose 26.0-27.5”?
Mr.Moose thanks, my friend has the Specialist and it seems to be pretty good and the feedback is mostly positive. As for the Carbon Rose, it's ATA is just 30", i'm not sure it's suitable for my purposes.

Also i have some questions concerning the accessorizes. Which arrow rest is better for target - the Trophy Taker Spring steel, Spot Hogg, Fuse ultra rest or Octane tripwire? And witch stabilizer would you recommend?
 

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Here goes.....

Seems like you have the bow part figured out.

Accessories are fairly personal, but there are standby models. I like the trophy taker, or aae freakshow because it gives you the option to torque tune the rest. The new hamskea Versa rest is also fantastic maybe the best option for a new set up.

You can drop tons of money on a set of bars, I would say if you patient the classified section is by far your best bet. Whatever ones you get they have to be stiff bstinger is my choice but there are a few other options as well.

Also don't buy weights for them, they are ridiculously priced, go to the hardware store and get different length bolts that will thread in to the stab.

Then get fender washers and use them as weight, super adjustable and you will always have enough weights. When you have them set up paint them however you like. Make sure you get a good mount if you going to use a side bar, it needs to lock down rock solid and be able to hold lots of weight.
 

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Kstigall Thanks for the valuable information! i've heard many good things about the Supra max and Specialist (especially), i'll include it in my list! At the moment it looks like this:
the Bowtech Insanity, Specialist
the PSE Supra Max
the Hoyt Vantage elite, Alpha elite, Pro Edge elite
the Mathews Conquest Apex7
Still i'm more considering buying the Hoyt bow, but the situation should become clearer after i shoot some of the listed bows, so i have to wait until the Pro edge appears in the store. My draw length is 27.2", so i guess in case with Hoyt i should choose 26.0-27.5”?
Mr.Moose thanks, my friend has the Specialist and it seems to be pretty good and the feedback is mostly positive. As for the Carbon Rose, it's ATA is just 30", i'm not sure it's suitable for my purposes.

Also i have some questions concerning the accessorizes. Which arrow rest is better for target - the Trophy Taker Spring steel, Spot Hogg, Fuse ultra rest or Octane tripwire? And witch stabilizer would you recommend?
Let me say this, although I'm not a great shooter. I shoot Hoyts. If you have you mind set on a Hoyt and adjustable modules, My experience with their cams is.... I personally couldn't hit a bull in the butt with the GTX and 75% mods. 65% was much better, Also I shot the RKT and fuels on Alpha Elites, and I could shoot it well also. Neither is the cam a spiral is..... And what sling shot said on accessories..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Slingsot Thanks!!! I decided on the Versa, there are a lot of good reviews on it and it seems to be comfortable enough. Thanks for your advice on the stabilizer and weights, didn't know that before.
Unclegus Most likely, if i'm going to buy the Hoyt bow, i'll buy the Pro Edge, which has the z5 cams (they seem to be very good). Thank you very much for shared experience, i'll keep that in mind.
 

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Slingsot Thanks!!! I decided on the Versa, there are a lot of good reviews on it and it seems to be comfortable enough. Thanks for your advice on the stabilizer and weights, didn't know that before.
Unclegus Most likely, if i'm going to buy the Hoyt bow, i'll buy the Pro Edge, which has the z5 cams (they seem to be very good). Thank you very much for shared experience, i'll keep that in mind.
No problem.....

It's really crazy what they charge for 3oz weight, almost criminal.

If you can get the overdraw bracket with your rest.
 

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No problem.....

It's really crazy what they charge for 3oz weight, almost criminal.

No, it's beyond criminal. But if that's what Jesse or Reo or whoever is winning at the time is shooting, they can get it pretty much no questions asked
 

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No problem.....

It's really crazy what they charge for 3oz weight, almost criminal.

No, it's beyond criminal. But if that's what Jesse or Reo or whoever is winning at the time is shooting, they can get it pretty much no questions asked
If more people knew...

Right now steel is scraping around $200 a ton! Or .006 cents per ounce

Stabilizer weights cost about 23 bucks for 3oz!

If that's not crazy enough they will sell you one 8oz weight for 20 bucks or so.

I got a 100 pack of fender washers off amazon for like 6 bucks..... They weigh about .3oz each. That's about 33 oz of weight.

No one should buy weights from these company's ever! At least not at the price they are asking
 
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