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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Could one of you Cam 1/2 tuning experts take a looks at my timing on my 2003 Protec with Cam 1/2?

I set it up myself since I don't trust the guys at my shop and was wondering if I should have the string more toward the middle of the timing marks. The bow shoots well but can be fussy on less than perfect shots.

Does this look OK?

Link below has photos. Thanks!


http://www.oxgroup.com/cam.htm
 

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Ox

Just my 2 cents... when the rubber bumper on the bottom cam is just starting to hit the string... the top cam stop should be lying all along its stop surface (clear as mud..Right?) your bottom looks good, the top is still to far from the string.
How about some more thoughts on this from others. WR
 

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Ox.... my cable is more into the module at full draw when I'm against the draw stop. (laying flat)

And I keep my performance marks more to the inside.
 

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top cable

the top cable is way out. I like my top cam to be a tad bit faster but not that fast. If you get to much into the top it will feel spongy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
where's my bowmaster!!!

I just read the old thread WR sent me on this issue. (THANKS)

Looks like I am way out of synch. Forget the cam marks. I heading for the workbench now. Got some adjustments to make.

woowoo!!

ox
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks AJ...Yep that's the photo I saw in that thread. And that's the look I hope to twist into place...:)
 

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OX subtract twist from the cable hooked to the top or add twist to the cable hooked to bottom. I would start with 4 from the looks of your picture.
 

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cam 1/2

This is gonna be fun......I thought timing,synch was a non issue with the cam 1/2 bows.?!??? Darn I was getting ready to trade my Conquest 3......Sorry I just could't help myself.
:cool:
 

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Oxford,I just replied to another post for you about this,and I gave a suggestion about your cams hitting at the same time.After looking at your pics I think this is a slight problem.Here is what I would suggest.
First,as far as the cams are out I would take the cables off and the string.Go to Hoyts websight and under technical, punch in the year of your bow and the model.Get the correct length of your strings and cables.Twist them until they are the right lenghtI think it will be about 12 to 15 twists.This is where you need to start from,otherwise your just guessing.Taking one or two twist out of one cable and adding one or two to the other cable may get you wher you want to go with the cams but you may not have your bow back to factory specks.In other words your ax to ax and brace height may not be right.The tec section will give you the right string legnth,and the right HCBC and HYBC (cable legnths),It will also give you the right ax to ax and brace height.
When you get the cables and string legnth right put them on the bow and you should be close.Then you are starting off right with the bow set back to factory specks.Now take the bow off the press and pull it back a couple times and look at the timing marks and the cams at full draw.Now you should be in the timing marks and have a very small amount of twisting on the cables to put the cams in time.Make sure that the bottom stop hits at the same time that the string is fully in the grove of the top cam.This will give you a solid wall,and the cams will be in time.
A couple of guys that I shoot with advance the top cam a little.(only about 1/2 the thickness of the string outside the top string grove) this they say gives them a slight vally feel.I prefer a harder wall so I set mine up the way I discribed to you.If you want even a harder wall,you can ****** the top cam or advance the bottom cam for that as well.But not too much,only about 1/8 to3/16.This is something you might want to try.Its a matter of preference.Hope this helps,By looking at your pics I know it wont hurt:)
 

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sts3d,Any time you are dealing with strings they will stretch.The strings cause miner problems,nothing that cant be fixed.If you have shot your bow a lot Im sure that you have done some of these things to yours as well.If you havent done anything,then I doubt that your bow is within factory specs or tuned well.Just a guess:)
You said that you were just getting ready to trade your conquest 3.What happened?Nobody would trade?Didnt think so,You might as well just give it away. Heck by the time you find someone to trade it off to the 2005 models might be out......Sorry I just couldnt help myself:cool:
 

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Timing?

Hey Ox,
Are the modules in the same position on the bottom and top cams? I was just looking at the pics and it looked like that they are different positions.Then again it may just be too late for my eyes to function!
 

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Hi Oxford!

I try to see on your cam´s , one is on letter D, and the first picture on the top seems that the letter is C.
i hope it´s just the picture who is wrong.
 

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Ox
This is the same as a few guys at my club are shooting. They are shooting well with them (one is 13 and in the last month shattered every state junior FITA record (1368) ) and thus I don't think it will effect your scores, it will if it is causing a change in your nock travel though.
Just checked my wife's (who is shooting 1355+ right now) and hers is bang on level, so I would suggest try and get it to that point.
Jim Park did some testing and found that it grouped the best when the timing marks were exactly the same.


On a side note, I think Jari is right, have you got them in the right slots?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
<--don't hire him to work on your bow

OKAY here's the deal. I got the strings more toward the center of the timing marks, the bottom cam stop and top cam groove hit at the same time. The let off and wall feel great!

Both modules are now both set at the "C" setting....geeezzz :rolleyes: (Yes they were C and D)

I also rounded out one of the hex screws in the cam (fuuu****) Not sure how to fix that. It was on C so I set the other one there.


I was twisting this and untwisting that with not a friggin clue what I was doing but it sorta worked out.

I'll shoot it tomorrow. I'm going to bed and will have nightmares of being attacked by a giant Bowmaster bow press. My hands are killing me :eek: :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks so much for all of the great information. It really helped!!

Turkey - I went to Hoyt's site and here's the specs for my bow now on Module C at a 27" draw.

Hoyt spec ATA - 40.25 // My ATA - 40.5
Hoyt Brace Height spec - 8.75 // My BH - 9

I had to shorten the string to fit my draw so that may be why my specs are off a bit. I shoot around 26.5" draw length.

My timing marks are not in the middle nor at the SAME location but they both are closer to the middle than before.

So does this look OK to you?
 

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DO YOU>--------->

Guys ever SLEEP?:p
Sounds like you got some good help last night Ox...
Now I know you have already done this?......but...measure from A to A on both sides and twist her up till these are even also.:rolleyes:

Don't depend on just looking at the timing marks, hang that thing on a hook every once in awhile ..give her a pull and check the cams....Now that you have twisted the strings it WILL strecth again...not much but some.

Before you shoot a round with your new set up...hang a new target...no one is going to believe you shot 60 arrows in the same hole without a picture:D

Please tell us what you think of it after you shoot it some. Curious to see if it holds up it's own against the old bow.

PS...I have one of those rounded out allen heads also...I could sure use some thoughts on getting it out??Must be them good Wal-Mart wrenches I'm using:confused: WR
 

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I use an Apple Ultra tuning machine to set the nock travel on all of the bows we sell. I have found that the top cam can end up being advanced when straight nock is achieved. The bows shoot great. The timing marks may be a red herring when it comes to setting up the nock travel as they are often in different places on each cam. I read on here that Hoyt have done away with the timing marks for 2004. I have not had this confirmed by Hoyt.

I would also back Turkeytom re string length, it is important to get the string length as close as possible to the factory specs. Having the correct string lengths pretty much has the bow timed.
 

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Re: cam 1/2

sts3d said:
This is gonna be fun......I thought timing,synch was a non issue with the cam 1/2 bows.?!??? Darn I was getting ready to trade my Conquest 3......Sorry I just could't help myself.
:cool:
I am with you sts3d

the following should jog a few memories...



Regards

:D
 
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