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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting into target shooting and need some opinions on fletchings. I just bought some nice target arrows off the classifieds. One needs to be re-fletched
so I might as well re-do all of them to match. I've seen some of the other shooters and it seems they are using alot of different fletching. Want to know what others here are using. Feathers, vanes, offset, helical, size? Names would be helpful also. The arrows in my signature are loaners and they just don't work for me. Thanks all
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Don't be afraid of posting some pics also.
 

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waiting for delivery but about to try out 2" Rayzr feathers by Gateway, 2" Blazer vanes and 3" Fusion vanes by Norway Ind. Ive used 2" and 4" NAP quick spins in the past. 4" were noisy as hell, 2" on a helical were perfect with fixed heads (NAP Braxe) which hit with points to 30 at least. Just heard these other options are more popular (on here at least) and are better so going to try them on a shaft each before deciding how to do the other 9. If I'm in any doubt them I'll get some more 2" quick spins. I was interested in trying straight fleshing on a hunting arrow so i tried a gold tip with duravanes and it was hopeless with fixed bh. I messed up my centre shot for a good hour trying to get it to hit right, with no success at all. my just be me.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the response but I'm looking for opinions on target arrows. Does give me some ideas for hunting arrows however.
 

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Shootin and Cussin
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What kind of arrows?

What kind of target?
 

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I've used Bi-Delta 2.5" the last few years. They work great for 3d and they are light, 4.9 grains each.

image.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What kind of arrows?

What kind of target?
The arrows are gold tip 30x pros and will be used for indoor 5 spot only.
 

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Back Yard Champion
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30X GTs are a good arrow. Try something of 1 3/4" up to 3". Bow tuned well, straight works, but more go with offset and helical. I use helical on all my short vanes. I like Bohning, so 1 3/4" X vane Shield Cuts.
 

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Feathers as well on my 22's for indoor but I use 3" Gateways.
 

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the smaller vanes surely do look nicer, but the truth is, for indoor , spots, Vegas, etc. ...indoor target,.....speed means absolutely nothing, and the sooner your arrows are stabilized, the tighter your groups will be....and the only way that stabilization happens is with lots of drag on the dull end of the arrow. most target guys prefer feathers because they make more turbulence than vanes, and turbulence is drag.
the trade off, (of course there's a trade off), is a little higher maintenance, especially if you use a blade rest..... more fletching replacement, simply because feathers don't wear as well as vanes, but in spot shooting, if your serious about it, that's the nature of the beast and feathers do tolerate a little contact better than vanes, but do wear out faster.
one trick or little known secret,.... is to set your rig up with just a small up tear....1/8" or thereabouts. that gets the fletch up, away from the rest, as they pass, and it won't hurt the groups one bit, but that clearance will give the feathers un-countable more life.
another aspect is that with a blade, you can monitor the spine adjustment of your large dia. shafts, by watching the wear pattern on your feathers. when all is good, you will see the riser side feathers wearing just a bit faster, than the outside feathers....the natural "paradox", moves the fletching up and away from the riser as it passes the rest, that puts that inside fletch in light contact with the blade when the feathers are large or have some helical on them. if the opposite is happening, the outside fletch is wearing faster, a little more point weight or poundage will help your flight. if both bottom fletch are wearing, a slight raise in nock height will help.
although the accepted knowledge is dead level arrow travel, it's not always the best, for target shooting.
 

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the smaller vanes surely do look nicer, but the truth is, for indoor , spots, Vegas, etc. ...indoor target,.....speed means absolutely nothing, and the sooner your arrows are stabilized, the tighter your groups will be....and the only way that stabilization happens is with lots of drag on the dull end of the arrow. most target guys prefer feathers because they make more turbulence than vanes, and turbulence is drag.
the trade off, (of course there's a trade off), is a little higher maintenance, especially if you use a blade rest..... more fletching replacement, simply because feathers don't wear as well as vanes, but in spot shooting, if your serious about it, that's the nature of the beast and feathers do tolerate a little contact better than vanes, but do wear out faster.
one trick or little known secret,.... is to set your rig up with just a small up tear....1/8" or thereabouts. that gets the fletch up, away from the rest, as they pass, and it won't hurt the groups one bit, but that clearance will give the feathers un-countable more life.
another aspect is that with a blade, you can monitor the spine adjustment of your large dia. shafts, by watching the wear pattern on your feathers. when all is good, you will see the riser side feathers wearing just a bit faster, than the outside feathers....the natural "paradox", moves the fletching up and away from the riser as it passes the rest, that puts that inside fletch in light contact with the blade when the feathers are large or have some helical on them. if the opposite is happening, the outside fletch is wearing faster, a little more point weight or poundage will help your flight. if both bottom fletch are wearing, a slight raise in nock height will help.
although the accepted knowledge is dead level arrow travel, it's not always the best, for target shooting.
Great post… lots of info I shall refer back to in this one thanks:thumbs_up
 
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