[wte]

Hi All,

I have run into a tuning problem and need some advice. The bow is a 21" Hoyt Excel riser (right hand) with Medium Limbs, spiga 2 elevated rest, TT short plunger. The brace height is set at 8.5",0 tiller, and the nock is set at 3/8" ( I shoot 3 under). DW is 40# and DL is 29". The arrows are GT 3555 full length with 100gr tip and feathers. Here is the problem, I have noticed that after only a couple dozen shots, the lower feather (cock feather out) is almost shreded and the riser shelf is showing signs of definate contact at the rear. The arrows appear to be grouping well. Bareshafts are inline with the fletched shaft up and down and only about 3/4" to the right. I am ok with that for now, however, the fact that I am shredding the lower feather concerns me. If I leave things the way they are, I will have to replace the lower feather every time I shoot.
Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks,
Todd

 

[Viper1]

Todd -

By what you're describing, you've tuned a too stiff arrow to fly correctly.

Check you tip off set, the arrow head should be AT LEAST to the left of the string when viewed from behind.

Try shooting cock feather in. If the cock feather starts looking ragged after a while, that confirms it.

you might want to try turning the nock slightly to increase clearance, but that might just mask the real issue.

Viper1 out.

 

[Flying Dutchman]

Are your feathers in the right position regarding to the nock? Do you use a heavy helical? What fletching device do you use?

 

[wte]

Viper,

Do you think that adding point weight will help? I do have 100gr brass inserts. Combined with 100gr or even 125 gr points would double what is there now. The tip off set appears to be where it should be just left of string.


Flying Dutchman,

The fletching appears to correct. Some helical but not too radical. Bitzenburger fletching jig.

Thanks for all your help!
Todd

 

[Flying Dutchman]

Todd,

your fletching seems to be allright. So I am with Viper.

 

[Viper1]

Todd -

Adding point weight couldn't hurt. Just remember, when tuning the first thing you have to do is "prove the theory". If (in this case) you think the tail of the arrow is striking the riser, then the first test is too weaken the arrow. Adding point weight is an option, as is raising the brace height. Don't be afraid to jack it up 1" to see if it makes a difference. If it does, then you can either get a shorter string, add head weight permanently, get weaker arrows or a little of each. If there is NO change, then something else is going on and we have to look further. Since you already know how to bareshaft, you're ahead of the game.

Viper1 out.

 

[wte]

Viper & Flying Dutchman,


Thanks again for your help!

Todd

 

[rattus58]

I have a question here.... "The bow is a 21" Hoyt Excel riser (right hand) with Medium Limbs, spiga 2 elevated rest, TT short plunger."

"I have noticed that after only a couple dozen shots, the lower feather (cock feather out) is almost shreded and the riser shelf is showing signs of definate contact at the rear."

How does an elevated rest allow contact on the RISER SHELF?

Much Aloha... Tom :beer:

 

[Viper1]

Tom -

It probably doesn't, but that's not what's causing the feather burn, more likely it's actually hitting the rest itself. The Excel is cut pretty far past center and really easy to end up with an "over spined, but it works" situation.

Sometimes ya have read a little between the lines.

Viper1 out.

 

[rattus58]

I had that feelin, but not knowing what kind of rest we're talking bout... was just bein curious... and sorta a pain... I knows.... :grin:

You know... "The Excel is cut pretty far past center and really easy to end up with an "over spined, but it works" situation." Imagine my Jaguar will be in similar straights...


Aloha... and Merry Christmas... :beer: