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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I've never posted on this forum but have been reading it for a while. There seems to be a wealth of knowledge here and I am in BAD need of some.

I tried to paper tune my bow (Oneida Black Eagle ESC, 55lb DW, 235 fps, right handed) and I'm getting nock high and right tears. Nothing I did seemed to make any difference in the horizontal part of the tear. The horizontal tear is approximately 3 inches when shot from about 4 to 5 feet. I can get rid of the vertical tear if I move the nock point to below the rest so that the arrow tip is actually pointing up. I'm shooting with a release and am using a Whisker Biscuit arrow rest. I have tried moving the rest but it didn't make any difference regardless of which way I moved it. I then shot some bare shafts at 10 yards to see what would happen.

I tried a few different arrows and the heaviest spined (orange Nitro Stingers) hit the farthest to the left, by several inches, of where fletched arrows hit. The weakest spined (Gold Tip 3555's) hit the closest and when I put a heavier field tip on the weakest spined shaft it hit real close to the fletched arrows. I tried some GT 5575's and they hit in between the Nitro Stingers and the GT 3555's. Also the arrows stuck in the target with the nock pointing to the right. The stiffer the arrow the more noticeable this was. The 3555 with the 125gr tip was almost straight though.

I thought the right tear was an indication of being over spined but according to the Easton tuning guide it doesn't appear to be, unless I'm missing something. Pretty much everything I read says that mechanical releases shouldn't give a right tear for a right handed shooter.

Any ideas or suggestions (other than buying a new bow - I really do like it) would be very much appreciated. I'm about at wits end trying to tune this thing.

Thanks
 

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Check at the to make sure your top or bottom limb has not twisted to one side or the other and make sure the tiller(the distance between the cam and the string) is as close to the same as you can get. The last thing to check is to make sure your timing cable is adjusted right. You do not want it too tight or too loose. You should be able to move it 1/8 to 3/16 by pushing on it lightly between the idler wheels. I hope that helps you out, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have checked and rechecked the tiller. It's dead on and the timing cable has about 3/16" slack as described. Neither limb is visibly out of line and the cables were recently replaced. I also double checked the draw stops to be sure they were exactly the same and they are. I do have a theory that the top limb is pulling harder though.

If it's true that you can't over spine a compound/release aid combo then the top limb pulling harder is the only thing that makes sense to me. I haven't figured out how I'm going to test that theory though. I am going to take the kisser off and see if it's possibly inducing the nock right attitude but that would still leave a huge nock high problem to deal with.
 

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I had some thing like that happen to me ..ajusting pounds is the only thing that seemed to work at all . But, I ended up just group tuning my broadheads and field points ..and got them shooting together the arrows look good in flight and it is shooting great now. Made me wish I just started with that and did a walk back tune .
 
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