Stainless can still corrode but it will take longer. There's several ways to protect it from the spraying down with WD40, White Lith. Grease, Moly Grease, but why not do what a lot of blacksmiths use to protect their work and use beeswax. Just melt it and brush it on in thin layers and it will act as a lube to a point for the threads when you need to loosen/tighten things. As far as covering the target I would suggest it because it cant hurt anything.Go get some stainless hardware.
It didn't come from TF (sorry I am not familiar with that shop). I got it from Kleins Archery in Dryden NY. He seemed glad to get rid of it.Mark,
I have the same stuff, probably form the same place. TF, right? I want to get some more.
I shoot the big face (rather than sideways as you are) of 4 sheets duct taped together. This will be year 5!!!!!! Of the 5 years, 3+ had a few months of broadhead use and thousands of shots each year with fp. I bet I have another couple years left in them too....
Shot me a pm.
I haven't shot it at 10 yards but at 20 they go in about 8 inches or so. This is from recurves, so with a compound it may be a little farther. Carbon arrows pull very easily. The 2117's I use for indoor are a little harder to pull, but not too bad. I haven't shot it enough yet to say how it holds up but I think it will last for quite a while. The holes do heal to some extent.How far do your arrows penetrate at 10 Yards and how about a phote of what it looks like after you've shot a few hundred arrows to see how it holds up ?
Does the ethafoam spring back to fill up the holes or does it remain as voids till they fall out ?