I would try grease.
New outdoor ethafoam target
5162
18
Here is a new outdoor target I just finished. It is made from 2.5" thick ethafoam sheets stacked and compressed with threaded rod. Total cost was $30 since I got the foam for free - a local pro shop gave it to me, since it is shot out if you tried to shoot thru the thin dimension.
Anybody else use this stuff? Should I try to cover it with something to keep the sun off it? I plan on leaving it outside until late in the fall. I was thinking of getting a cheap tarp and facing it with the tarp, kind of like a giant bag target.
Can anyone recommend a grease or something to put on the threaded rod and hardware to keep it from rusting?
Thanks,
Mark
Anybody else use this stuff? Should I try to cover it with something to keep the sun off it? I plan on leaving it outside until late in the fall. I was thinking of getting a cheap tarp and facing it with the tarp, kind of like a giant bag target.
Can anyone recommend a grease or something to put on the threaded rod and hardware to keep it from rusting?
Thanks,
Mark
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Anti sieze
anti sieze will work the best will last for years
anti sieze will work the best will last for years
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2x for anti sieze
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3x for anti sieze
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566 Posts
i faced mine with carpet
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311 Posts
Thanks -
I tried some 100% silicone grease I had on hand (use it for arrow lube). I will see how it holds up.
Anyone know how this foam stands up to sunlight?
Mark
I tried some 100% silicone grease I had on hand (use it for arrow lube). I will see how it holds up.
Anyone know how this foam stands up to sunlight?
Mark
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812 Posts
if you don't plan on tightening the nuts on the the threaded rod then I would go to the store and buy plastidip in the spray can. it will coat the rods and won't rust. If you unscrew the nuts on the rod it will take the plastidip off though. Its the same stuff you put on tool handles and everything.
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2,667 Posts
StevenS--
Here's a quote from another post about sources for the foam--
The foam comes from a wholesale place near my home in Western Canada, however, it is produced in the States. You can contact your nearest Industrial Plastic Shop or Google ZOTEFOAM and there are some companies that you may be able to buy from near you. It costs me approx. $130 a sheet on average for a 4’x 9’x 2”sheet. I buy 2.2 lb. black and white for the main body parts and 4.4 lb. white for the kill zone centers. The foam all comes two inch thick so you have to create templates for the different body parts and melt them together with a very hot heat gun. It does not take much to adhere them together and once they are stuck, they don’t come apart. Glue does not work well. I have tried many types. Heat is the only way to go. You can sculpt with smaller pieces as well.
Paint has always been an issue. I have tried spray to roll on acrylic and enamel and I think it is the nature of the beast not to stick well. If you leave the foam open the paint will sink into the pores more to give you a longer lasting look. It is inevitable that they have to be painted again. If you happen to find a paint that sticks well, please let me know.
Here's a quote from another post about sources for the foam--
The foam comes from a wholesale place near my home in Western Canada, however, it is produced in the States. You can contact your nearest Industrial Plastic Shop or Google ZOTEFOAM and there are some companies that you may be able to buy from near you. It costs me approx. $130 a sheet on average for a 4’x 9’x 2”sheet. I buy 2.2 lb. black and white for the main body parts and 4.4 lb. white for the kill zone centers. The foam all comes two inch thick so you have to create templates for the different body parts and melt them together with a very hot heat gun. It does not take much to adhere them together and once they are stuck, they don’t come apart. Glue does not work well. I have tried many types. Heat is the only way to go. You can sculpt with smaller pieces as well.
Paint has always been an issue. I have tried spray to roll on acrylic and enamel and I think it is the nature of the beast not to stick well. If you leave the foam open the paint will sink into the pores more to give you a longer lasting look. It is inevitable that they have to be painted again. If you happen to find a paint that sticks well, please let me know.
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1,437 Posts
Stainless can still corrode but it will take longer. There's several ways to protect it from the spraying down with WD40, White Lith. Grease, Moly Grease, but why not do what a lot of blacksmiths use to protect their work and use beeswax. Just melt it and brush it on in thin layers and it will act as a lube to a point for the threads when you need to loosen/tighten things. As far as covering the target I would suggest it because it cant hurt anything.
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2,168 Posts
How far do your arrows penetrate at 10 Yards and how about a phote of what it looks like after you've shot a few hundred arrows to see how it holds up ?
Does the ethafoam spring back to fill up the holes or does it remain as voids till they fall out ?
Does the ethafoam spring back to fill up the holes or does it remain as voids till they fall out ?
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6,160 Posts
Mark,
I have the same stuff, probably form the same place. TF, right? I want to get some more.
I shoot the big face (rather than sideways as you are) of 4 sheets duct taped together. This will be year 5!!!!!! Of the 5 years, 3+ had a few months of broadhead use and thousands of shots each year with fp. I bet I have another couple years left in them too....
Great stuff.
Shot me a pm.
I have the same stuff, probably form the same place. TF, right? I want to get some more.
I shoot the big face (rather than sideways as you are) of 4 sheets duct taped together. This will be year 5!!!!!! Of the 5 years, 3+ had a few months of broadhead use and thousands of shots each year with fp. I bet I have another couple years left in them too....
Great stuff.
Shot me a pm.
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311 Posts
It didn't come from TF (sorry I am not familiar with that shop). I got it from Kleins Archery in Dryden NY. He seemed glad to get rid of it.
Do you face yours with anything, or do you just leave it out like I have mine?
I haven't shot it at 10 yards but at 20 they go in about 8 inches or so. This is from recurves, so with a compound it may be a little farther. Carbon arrows pull very easily. The 2117's I use for indoor are a little harder to pull, but not too bad. I haven't shot it enough yet to say how it holds up but I think it will last for quite a while. The holes do heal to some extent.
Mark
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get a can of corrosion X
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