Archery Talk Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
(aka lug nut)
Joined
·
53,660 Posts
Twist the d-loop inline with the arrow. So the loop is pointing straight back.

THEN, go get a set of needlenose pliers. Your tech did not do a GREAT job, and did not STRETCH the loop
to get the d-loop knots nice and TIGHT.





A new loop needs stretching to nearly DOUBLE the starting length, to get the d-loop cord stretched TIGHT
and to get the d-loop knots nice and TIGHT.
 

·
(aka lug nut)
Joined
·
53,660 Posts
So yes I had to put new serving on my string as it started to fray. So as you all know this stinks sometimes cause could change evrethink and my bow is dead nuts tuned and on.

since strings/cables are not under warranty and I didn’t want to just cut the serving and burn it then super glue. I think this is just a bandaid. we discussed redoing serving and keeping loop the same location.

so the tech took off knock set and reserved. He was able to get everything right back to where is was. He did say no need for top knocking tie in only lower. Even the loop is exact and I’m real happy with that.

before I left the tech said let me take that back and see if I can put twist in it. He gave the bow back and asked me to shoot it for a little to see if the loop eventually comes around. I did my research beforehand and depending on how tight lose the serving is it can mess up the rotation.

I just don’t like how it looks at rest. I will say when I draw back the peep and sight housing are lined up. Every few shots I do turn peep slightly to the right. Most all arrows are flying true. Every now and then I get one that looks like a fish tail left.

here is the pic at rest. I think you will know what I’m talking about and how to fix this. Also when I pull loop back to strait it with my fingers I feel the tension as it wants to go back. Perhaps this is why I’m getting the fishtail. Can’t tell with thumb release only finger and thumb.

thanks and sorry for being long winded.
When I install a NEW loop,
the loop BEFORE stretching looks like this.



Yes, WAY WAY too short.

BUT, AFTER stretching, the too short loops grows to THIS size.



BEFORE loop size.



AFTER stretching, loop size.





That means, your existing loop needs ONE d-loop knot untied,
and then, you re-tie the current loop TOO SHORT,
to allow room for STRETCHING to nearly double the TOO SHORT size,
cuz the loop should at least DOUBLE in length, after stretching.
 

·
(aka lug nut)
Joined
·
53,660 Posts
So if I twist the d loop to the right I’ll never get the peep to come around. He did tighten the loop in order to get it 7/8”. It is tight. I’m just concerned by twisting the loop it might move the lower knock set. I guess it s a trip back cause they will have to press the bow and use twist for the peep I assume
Find another shop. This is SUPREMELY sloppy work.

STEP 1. FIND another shop.

STEP 2. You twist the bowstring, TOP end loop with the bow in a bow press, to get the peep pointing STRAIGHT at brace height.

Peep should look like this, after you (another pro shop) adds enough twists to the TOP bowstring end loop.



STEP 3. Take bow out of the bow press (different pro shop) and you fire at least a dozen shots at close range.
Need to SHOCK the bowstring. The peep will be a little bit crooked again. So, the bow goes BACK into the bow press.
Might need another half twist to get the peep looking like THIS, at brace height.



STEP 4. Take bow out of the press again. Fire a dozen shots at close range. CONFIRM that the peep still looks like this at brace height, EVEN after firing a dozen shots at close range.



BUT, the peep is still rotating like CRAZY at full draw? I cannot see thru the peep at full draw!!!
Correct. THAT's why we do STEP 2.
 

·
(aka lug nut)
Joined
·
53,660 Posts
So if I twist the d loop to the right I’ll never get the peep to come around. He did tighten the loop in order to get it 7/8”. It is tight. I’m just concerned by twisting the loop it might move the lower knock set. I guess it s a trip back cause they will have to press the bow and use twist for the peep I assume
So, STEP 2 (at a REAL pro shop),
now the bow goes back into the bow press
and now we mess with the BOTTOM bowstring end loop, to get you to ZERO peep rotation,
from brace height to full draw.

LIKE THIS.





MIGHT need to add twists to the bottom bowstring end loop, to get to ZERO peep rotation.
MIGHT need to remove twists from the bottom bowstring end loop, to get to ZERO peep rotation.

When you get to ZERO peep rotation, after the REAL pro shop messes with the bottom bowstring end loop,
go fire a dozen shots, at close range.

Now, you MIGHT have a little peep rotation, after firing the dozen shots.
So, your bow goes BACK into the bow press and might need a half twist adjustment, at the BOTTOM bowstring end loop.

When the REAL pro shop gets you to ZERO peep rotation,
NOW you twist the d-loop to be IN LINE with the arrow.

NOW, the REAL pro shop, uses needle nose pliers to stretch your d-loop to DOUBLE the unstretched length,
to really lock down the d-loop knots.
 

·
(aka lug nut)
Joined
·
53,660 Posts
nuts&bolts. You are dead right. I can easily twist the loop to the right to get it even. Problem is the peep is way left. So no doubt I need a press. Looks like I’ll have to back. For some reason he told me he couldn’t get the peep correct with twist. So I can’t stand this **** anymore. U r right sloppy work. Time for me to get a press. If I tighten loop any more he’ll is will go over an inch. Looks like I’ll have to tie on another loop set. Frustrating to say the least.
This is why folks end up purchasing a press, learning how to do bow tuning FOR REAL.
 

·
(aka lug nut)
Joined
·
53,660 Posts
If he didn’t tighten it down can u still keep the same loop and use this special pliers with teeth of tie a new one on? Just seems like my loop will be double what it is now.
Untie one d-loop knot.
Don't think the "pro shop feller" tightened your loop, cuz the knots are loose and the loop spins completely around.

RE-tie the loop so the loop is too short, kinda flat.











So, when your current loop is nice and FLAT like this, use scissors to cut off the excess,
leaving a short stub.



Using your fingernail, pick at the end of the stub and make a cotton ball of d-loop cord fibers.



You can use a bic lighter to MELT the fibers, or you can heat up a allen key wrench, and use the hot metal
like an iron, and MELT the fibers.



When your new SHORTER loop, looks like this,
use needlenose pliers and STRETCH.



Want to at least double the length.
 

·
(aka lug nut)
Joined
·
53,660 Posts
D loop knots look correct to me just checked it
Your d-loop knots are backwards.

Product Tire Organism Font Line


You have a right handed bow. So, release aid will be in your RIGHT hand.
Most right handed shooters, rotate wrist counter-clockwise.



So, the melted ball of d-loop material, on the BOTTOM d-loop knot should be facing the shooter.
With bottom d-loop knot, having the melted ball facing the shooter...

then, the d-loop cord can naturally TWIST in THIS direction...\\\\\\\\ for a RH shooter.

TOP d-loop knot, the melted ball should be facing away from the shooter, so shooter cannot/should not be able to see the melted ball, when the d-loop is IN LINE pointing away from the arrow.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top