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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased new strings from one of the makers on the forum for my son's Apprentice II, left handed bow. I also purchased a bowmaster press to begin to be able to do work like this myself (swap strings, and peep install).

The press worked great, and the strings look great and installed easily. I took pictures before installation to make sure the cable slide and strings were installed in the same orientation.

The bow draws fine. It appears there is a little lean on the bottom string on the cam that I am not sure was there before the install of new strings (I could be wrong). I took pics of string attachments and not of cams looking down.

I tried to include some pics to illustrate what I am saying. The bottom string appears to lean a bit away from the cam (to the right) whereas the top string on the cam is perfectly straight.

The buss cable on the bottom cam with the string that appears to lean away is lined up right against the cam; whereas the bus cable of the top cam is a good ways away from the cam but the string is perfectly straight. I hope the pics illustrate what I am trying to say.

Anyway, my question is whether this is normal or not. I recall reading that on full draw the cams rotate such that the string lines up, and at rest some lean of the string is normal.

Feedback appreciated as to whether this is normal or not cam8.jpg bottomcamstringleanright.jpg cam3.jpg cam6.jpg cam7.jpg . Thanks for any input and for reading.
 

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Wish I could help, but I'm not seeing what you're describing. The cams look good. Maybe someone with more experience with this bow will be able to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for looking.

the pic attached is the bottom cam. the string is leaning towards the top (above the cam in the picture) and is not straight inline with the cam....as if it is going to come off.

cam6.jpg
 

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Okay, I think I see the problem. I think that when the string was replaced, the length on the yokes was not put back to the original position. You can use your press to take pressure off the cables and put a twist in the left yoke and take a twist out of the right yoke (left and right with the bow in the upright position). What you will be doing is re-aligning your limbs to change the cam angle. Let me know if this helps.
 

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fairly common.

If you didn't take exact measurements of both old and new strings then you will be off. It's not a big deal, just time to tune. As mentioned...time to start twisting/untwisting as necessary.

On yokes...twist one, untwist the other. Don't do more than a twist or two at once as sometimes it doesn't take much.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies. I twisted away and was able to reduce the lean considerably. Trial and error twisting one side, untwisting the other until I achieved what I think is the best I can do. Not able to get rid of it completely but much, much better.

My only concern is that the axle to axle should be 27.625 and I am getting 27 3/8 (limbs bottomed out).

I have learned quite a bit trying this on my own but have much much more to learn. Next time will definitely do measurements before replacing the strings. Maybe 27 and 3/8 is fine??
 

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Thanks for the replies. I twisted away and was able to reduce the lean considerably. Trial and error twisting one side, untwisting the other until I achieved what I think is the best I can do. Not able to get rid of it completely but much, much better.

My only concern is that the axle to axle should be 27.625 and I am getting 27 3/8 (limbs bottomed out).

I have learned quite a bit trying this on my own but have much much more to learn. Next time will definitely do measurements before replacing the strings. Maybe 27 and 3/8 is fine??
So by twisting the yoke cables you balanced the alignment of the cam by making one side pull up more than the other. Leave those alone now that you have them correct. If you really want to get that AtoA spot on, untwist the cables from the oposite end of the yokes until you get it into spec. Remember you will have to time the cams.

Personally...axle to axle never seems to line up to spec for me when I have my bow completely tuned and working the way I want it to.
 

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you probably won't get rid of lean completely...risers flex between brace and full draw. If it's completely gone at brace, there could be some at anchor...if none at anchor there could be some at brace.
 

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As Fury and others say you are never going to eliminate all the lean. Get the bowmaster back out and make small adjustments little by little to the split yokes until the lean is a little less dramatic then it is now.
 
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