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Hello everyone who reads this, my name is Lance, and I live in Maplewood NJ, USA. I found a recurve bow in the garage of the house we bought about 10 years ago, and summarily ignored it. As I am moving to switzerland very soon, I am interested in taking it with me, and joining the archery club there to learn and practice and enjoy the company of the archery people there.

Here are the specs for the bow:
Browning Prep RH Recurve
4s2822 [I suppose this is the serial number?]
40# [ I am guessing this is the pound rating?]
62" [seems to be the length, but it actually measures 59.9 end to end, hmm, weird?]
a. m. o. [no clue... please tell me what this means, the curiosity is killing me]

Ok, so here are my questions concerning this whole adventure:

How do I buy a string for it? String specs?Can I buy it online like at eBay or Cabelas? Maybe Walmart?
I have very little to spend, so what is the minimum "outfitting" would I need to just get started?
I think I would need arrows, string, stringer [it does already have a soft shelf spongey thing]?
Is there a type designation for ordering or buying arrows? In other words what do I ask for?
I would like to shoot targets, is there a handy dandy quick and easy way to set up a backstop/target?
If I eventually get accurate, and decide to try hunting, would a bow of this spec be suitable?
I am a 5' 9" male 140# in good shape; is this bow in my size strength range?
Are there any online videos that you guys think are particularly helpful?
How about books? Any good book you could point me to?
My experience level is: Eagle Scout with archery, and camp with archery, so I do have a little bit, but many years ago..
I know Browning Archery is kaput, can anyone give me any background on this bow?
Any other information you would be kind enough to share would be awesome!!!
Is there any possible way I can rig this bow to fish with also? Even a home done jury rig would be good?

For clarity I am including pictures, and as a way of introduction, am including one of me so you can "see" who you're talking to.

Thank you very much for any assistance / advice you can offer.

-Lance

BowPics.jpg
 

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Lance -

It's an entry level recurve bow and would be considered a "standard" bow in most European countries.
It's design is fairly generic and was used by a lot of schools and camps as well as individuals in the 60's and 70's.

If the bow is intact, no cracks or separations it should be fine, although slightly on the high side, weight wise to begin serious shooting.
(It will have a weight of 40# when drawn to 28". If you draw more that 28", it will "pull" more, if you draw less, it will "pull" less.)

Right now go to Lancaster Archery's website for supplies.
You will need a 12 strand DACRON (MUST BE DACRON, not any other materials) bowstring measuring AMO (Archery Manufacturer's Organization) 62". It will have an actual length of 59", but a 58" actual length string may be more appropriate.

Based on your height and the specs of that bow, I would start will full length Easton 1816 aluminum arrows in any flavor you like.
This thread will give you an idea of the other things you'll need: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1588147

That should give you a few things tp think about.

Viper1 out.
 

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This sounds like fun. I started about 2 years ago with a 38 lb bow so you should be able to manage 40 lbs. I think it would be possible to hunt with a 40 pound bow in most of the US.

It seems as though the AMO length is really a description of string length, not bow length. I think that an AMO string is 3 inches shorter than the AMO length. In your case, the string would be 59 inches. But some people make them 4 inches shorter or 58 inches. And not everyone seems to have the same standard. As viper said, it needs to be Dacron and 12 strands is great, 14 will be ok. The good and bad news is that Dacron stretches. This is good news if your string comes 58 inches and you really wanted 59. It is bad if you liked the length you get because it will get longer as you use it. But it can be twisted to make it shorter, initially to get the right length, and then to accommodate stretch.

You can get strings made quite easily on eBay or a lot of other places. I use a guy on eBay called stilldub I think, and his strings are less than $10 each. I always plan on buying two. I get the first one by the AMO length, then put it on and see how it looks and works. When I get it twisted to what I want, I order a second one the exact length. He will make them to the half inch. Plus you get to choose the colors.

Otherwise you need some finger protection. I use a glove. My first glove was just a tight fitting driving/mechanics glove with nylon webbing inserted into the finger tips. I eventually broke down and bought an archery glove. A lot of people use a tab. The person I was with initially used a glove so that is what I do. No other reason.

You also need some arm protection. It is one of these things that if you do it right, you don't hit your arm and you don't need the protection, but if you do it wrong it hurts like hell. I have the cheapest one I could find for about $15. I have seen them made out of water bottles.

You already know about the stringer. I have actually bought three of them, don't ask, and they are also about $15 each, but with a piece of leather and paracord you can make one that will work.

Arrows are the budget killer. Aluminum is the cheapest, but not by much, and well bend. Carbon fiber is the latest thing, but more expensive, maybe 10 to 20 percent, and will not bend, but will break. Length is not very important so long as they stick out past the bow at full draw. Too short is hazardous to your health, too long doesn't make much difference. So, as viper said, leave them full length. Arrows are rated by spine. This is just a measure of deflection under load. You see this in charts. At least for carbon arrows. For my 40 lb bow I have been recommended and have shot .500 and .400 spine arrows. Someone recommended .600 arrows but I have not tried any. I think I like the .500 the best. I use BeMan ICS Bowhunter 500 arrows, full length is 30 1/2 inches, with 125 grain tips. Points screw in and can be replaced. You probably want to start with real feathers to shoot off the shelf. Any length and shape feathers will work. They are only on there to slow the back of the arrow down. A dozen of the arrows cost me about $90 at a local shop. But they last a long time. I have ruined a few though.

I have used YouTube a lot for instruction, along with just searching the web. On YouTube I think his name is moebow that has good instruction. Viper has written a book, shooting the stickbow, that gets good reviews but I didn't buy it or read it. I like ebooks and it doesn't come in that format.

For a backstop, I use three bales of straw, but at close range a 40 lb bow will shoot all the way through a standard bale of straw. I back the straw with 1/2 OSB. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hello Viper! Thank you for your thoughtful and informative reeponse. That sounds just right being an entry level bow, how lucky I am to find just the right thing! Yes the bow seems to be in very good condition, I can find no cracks or other flaws. The info about the string and arrows is very helpful, and thank you. Yes this does give me a few things to think about, and thanks for your guidance!

-Lance
 

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Wow, Nekekal

I appreciate you taking the time to pound out that answer!

I really appreciate the detail you went into in this answer. This is so helpful, and I can't wait to get started.

Again, thank you!
 

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I have used YouTube a lot for instruction, along with just searching the web. On YouTube I think his name is moebow that has good instruction. Viper has written a book, shooting the stickbow, that gets good reviews but I didn't buy it or read it. I like ebooks and it doesn't come in that format.
http://www.amazon.com/Shooting-Stickbow-Anthony-Camera-ebook/dp/B00I86HBAK/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1399423923&sr=1-2&keywords=shooting+the+stickbow

Shooting the Stickbow is available on Kindle. I got a copy for myself a few months ago. A real "must" read and very comprehensive nuts to soup of traditional archery.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is a stickbow the same thing as a recurve? Or longbow?

Oh and thanks! I will definately get that book, look awesome!
 

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Welcome to AT. Congrats on the new bow.

When starting out (I am still starting out) I focused on 1) form, 2) tuning and 3) equipment.

For form (I use a side of face anchor near corner of mouth and shoot split):
http://www.archerygb.org/support/operations/coaches/coaching_videos.php

For tuning (always tuning...it is a process...like security):
http://veraxservice.net/arch/tune.html

For equipment (went from a 60" bow to 66" then 70" bows; the 66" Hoyt Excel w/ Axiom+s rock):
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1588147

When working on form I am not to concerned with were the arrow strikes. When shooting a 300, I focus on fluid/flowing
desire and procedure (trying not to think of form) with each arrow.

A bow marked 26 - 30#s at 28" would probably be better for starting out.

3 rivers has a strap on fishing reel for $25-30.

For arrows I would start with full length 500 spine carbons and tune by tip weight.

For a first target you could stuff an large old shirt with other used clothing.

Good luck.
 

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Wow, that's a treasure trove of great information, THANKS!!

Unfortunately the first link didn't work. That page on tuning is fascinating! I had no clue how you tune it. My first impression of archery is that there is a lot more than meets the eye, and a lot more skill is going to be required. This is sounding better and better every time somebody shares some info... I am super excited!!

Thanks, wseward!
 
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