Center of shaft should be in the center of the hole of the mounting screw.Space between nock & nock points usually 1 to 2 strands of serving so as not to get nock pinch & way to check it is take arrow with out a point in it & draw it back, if it raises off the rest have pinch if it stays on rest no nock pinch. Lay arrow on string & rest with level & set it at square to start with & then tune till you get BS hole then group tune.
Put bow in bow vise so it is square when setting up rest & nocking point.

 

My shootdown tuned with center of the shaft through the center of the berger hole with the arrow at 90deg.

 

Agree with the other guys. Meaning, center of the shaft centered over the Berger hole best you can eyeball it, and center of the knocking point dead-90'd with the rest, best you can measure it.

That said, on my focus xl, which has the new shorter-draw cams on it, a GT 400 ultralight/80g point requires a knock point about 1/8" below that, and about 1/4" below the center of the string, for reasons I don't yet know.

I don't normally worry about 1/4" here and there, but the response to up/down adjustment of the knocking point/cam timing is also more stubborn than it was on my other PSEs (may they R.I.P., a shootdown and 2 supra max's). Again for reasons that aren't clear yet on my setup. A lazy up/down response to adjustment has a 50% chance of being a shooter/fitment problem, so I'm just shooting the setup as-is for now. My groups are good so I'm leaving it be. But I may be in for a fight once I switch to my ACE's, I'll just have to see.

That's my only disappointment with the supra focus - the shootdown and supra max's were sweethearts to tune with full responses to adjustment in any direction and they never fussed about the type and spine of shaft like this one has.

Other than that, I still recommend the above as the best starting point, but with the proviso that it may change....

lee

 

In general I agree with the others; but I like to start with mine a touch on the high side...center of arrow through the top of the berger hole...so maybe 1/8" above the middle of the berger hole.

Have had a few instances when I put the arrow in the middle; and during tuning I had to lower the arrow rest and my arrow got too close to the bow shelf.

The tuning mark on the bow indicates direction; meaning you want your arrow to be parallel with the line. Doesn't have to be center of arrow at center of tuning mark.

For nock points; I put one about 1/8" long on the bottom side only. This puts a little down pressure on the shaft and helps it stay on those tiny little snake tongue arrow rests better.

Something to note on the split limb past parallel type bows; center of the string is not necessarily center of the berger hole; a stiffer set of limbs on one end or the other will "pull" the center of string up or down accordingly...and yield some nock travel. (Lees I would bet that's what's going on with yours).

 

Center of arrow through center of Berger hole is a good start.BUT, always a but in there. You need to start there and shoot groups and see how it tunes for YOU in that position. Depending on how much heel pressure from your hand and how you grip the bow, you may need arrow higher or lower. Plus depending on where you place dloop and nock points will have a slight effect on how your bow holds on target. The Berger hole and 90 degree are references to start with, so if it doesn’t group as well as you know you can and/or hold as well, try different places, higher or lower. Each person has their “sweet spot” that works for them and might not for the next guy. So don’t feel like you have to put them there and it’s wrong if you move them. It’s wrong NOT to move them if it’s not gonna work for the best result

 

Thank you for the responses, guys. My Beiter bow vise arrived this morning and now I have all the equipment to start, and I plan to set the bow betwen tomorrow and Christmas Day.

 

I start with the arrow center over the center of the berger hole. And nock level set at 90 degrees.

The space between the two tie in points of the d-loop should leave ~ 1/32"or so between the nock and the two d-loop tie in points. I think Dudely suggests 1 to 2 millimeters.

Then you tune your bow for nock location by moving the rest up or down according to how your bow tunes. I never move the d-loop on the string after the initial setting. Most of my bows end up around 1/16 - 3/16" nock high (as a result of moving the rest down). Occasionally you have to adjust the cam timing to get it to tune - but I have never found a need to move the location of the d-loop after it was initially set .