[Mint Hill Mule]

It looks like my fletched arrows are shooting nock low. If I shoot a bare shaft at 10 yards, will that tell me if I need to move the nock point up or down according to the angle of the bare shaft? If the nock points low, which way should I move the nock point? The spine seems fine thanks to nuts & bolts.

Does the walk back tuning give an indication of nock problems?

 

[nuts&bolts]

It looks like my fletched arrows are shooting nock low. If I shoot a bare shaft at 10 yards, will that tell me if I need to move the nock point up or down according to the angle of the bare shaft? If the nock points low, which way should I move the nock point? The spine seems fine thanks to nuts & bolts.

Does the walk back tuning give an indication of nock problems?

Make sure you fire the bareshaft into a straw bale
or a foam target.....just not a bag target. The bag target can give you a false reading.

Fire a bareshaft into a bullseye set at your shoulder height.

The goal is to fire the bareshaft from a level starting position.
Have a friend help you make sure that when you are at full draw,
you truly have the bareshaft perfectly level.

So, when you launch something that starts level,
and then it sticks into a target also perfectly level,
then the bareshaft must be flying perfectly level.

No vanes. No steering correction.

If the nock is high,
then lower the nocking point and d-loop.

If the nock is low,
then raise the nocking point and d-loop.





Walk back tuning is usually done with fletched shafts.
You use walk back tuning to figure out the horizontal position
of the arrow rest. The last part of walk back tuning
helps you set the sight windage (horizontal position of the sight ring).

 

[Mint Hill Mule]

Thanks again nuts & bolts. Does it matter what distance?

 

[pdq 5oh]

I don't think shooting an arrow into a target, then checking the angle is a very good way to check/set nock height. How do you know the arrow went straight in, without being influenced by the target? How do you know your arrow was level when it was shot? Set the bow level in a vise. Set your rest and nock point so the arrow is level (square to the string). There are levels to put on the string and arrow for doing this. Some bows need to be set nock high, some level. I have yet to set one up nock low.

I walk back tune to determine if center shot is correct. As you move back, your groups may move left or right, depending on where your rest is set. You shoot at a vertical line with the same pin from each distance, not worrying about the groups hitting lower as you move back. Move your rest to compensate should the groups not be in line, along the vertical line.

 

[nuts&bolts]

Thanks again nuts & bolts. Does it matter what distance?

10 feet in my garage is what I do.
It's convenient.

I would not use a bag target. They are notorious for being uneven.

I set up a cardboard box, and fill it with newspaper.
I turn the box over so I am going through several inches of newspaper.
It's like firing an arrow through a telephone book.

3 or 4 inches of newspaper provides a lot of stopping power.

I will put several inches of cardboard on top of the newspaper to
give the arrow something to go through.

Just make sure you are shooting at a bullseye on the cardboard box
full of newspaper,
and make sure your stack up enough boxes so that the bullseye is
at your shoulder height.

If your bow hand thumb is at your shoulder height
then you are pretty close to holding your arrow level.

If you want to confirm you are doing it right,
have a friend take a digital picture of yourself at full draw,
before you launch the bare shaft.

It's what I ask everyone who posts a picture
when they ask for help with their form.

This is a simpler version of shooting a fletched arrow through paper.


When the bare shaft sticks in your layered foam target,
or your Cabelas foam target
or your homemade cardboard box target full of newspaper,
and the bareshaft sticks perfectly level in your target
and your
digital picture confirms you started at full draw with the arrow perfectly level,

then you can be pretty sure that your fletched arrow will also be
flying perfectly level.

After you finish adjusting your d-loop
and nocking point
so that the bareshaft is flying perfectly level,
then if you wish,
fire a fletched shaft through
paper and look for any high or low tears.

I don't think you will find any.

 

[jerrytee]

If you are using a single arrow then the consistancy of the target is very important I prefer to use the difference in point of impact between a bear shaft and a fletched arrow. If the bear shaft is lower than the vaned shaft lower the nocking point.