[peterk]

Where would you begin with a nocking point on a new bow? More specifically, since you can adjust the nocking point and the height of the rest, where should you start with both?

I thought the logical thing would be to measure ata and split it in half, but that puts my nock on the shelf.

Thanks

Peter

 

[AKDoug]

My initial setup on all bows I work on is to set the rest so the bottom of the arrow is lined up with the bottom of the berger hole. I then take a bow square and set the nock point so that the arrow is square with the string. This is alway my starting point.

 

[peterk]

Thanks for the quick answer. Why isn't the berger hole the hlafway point between the axles? One would think that the halfway point would give you level nock travel (assuming round wheels).

 

[Jason Shore]

AK Doug/Anybody else
I am in the same boat of alot of people that have had all of the initial setup done in a proshop and want to do it themself.I have just brought a new rest(Dropaway) and have mounted and adjusted the rest so at full draw the rest supports the arrow in the centre of the burger hole.I have also adjusted the centre shot to be 3/4 from the side of riser to centre of the arrow .
Now the problem that I have and I dont know alot about is at the other end regarding the nock height.
1.When I attach the bow square to the string and adjust the square down to touch the rest when its in the upright position do you take the height measurement, of the launcher tips Or at the bottom of the V where the bottom of the arrow sits??
2.If it is from the top of the tips and with the bow square 90 degress to the string ,say you want the nock to be 1/8 high Do you put the bottom of the brass nock on the 1/8 mark??
I hope you understand what I am trying to ask
Thanks for any help(I dont want to always go running back to the shop)
Jason

 

[bucknasty]

i use a drop away. with the rest up and an arrow nocked i split the berger hole with an arrow - bow not drawn. i tie my loop, but in your case loosely attach a brass nock loosely so you can slide it. i'm assuming you put your brass nock above your arrow's nock. get it to where your arrow looks level - use your stabilizer to do this. attach your brass nock loosely, but so it won't slide above your arrow where your arrow looks level. note where the bottom of your arrowsits on your rest at full draw. use a square and see how close you are, if you have the bow squares clamps below your nock there will be a '0' that should show you where level is once you've gotten the long end on your rest in the up position where your arrow sits. make adjustment to brass nock if necessary and tighten it. this is where to start - level. if you have fletching contact with your rest move it up an 1/8th on an inch. next step is eyeball centershot, or use a laser or some other tool and then tighten it down. next step, go shoot. see if you're wrinkling your fletchings, or put a little powder on the launcher and see if you're getting contact. try twisting arrows nock to get contact to stop. if it doesn't work move nock up 1/8. next step, dial it in at 20 yds with your sight. once accomplished back up to 30 yds but still use 20 yd pin,. shoot at a dot towards the top of you target and see if your arrows fall in a perfect vertical line under the dot. if they do, great. if they are off left then adjust your rest a little, a very little to the right. if off right adjust to left. do this until your arrows fall perfectly vertical, or close, below the dot you are shooting at. when accomplished you will be amazed at what your arrow looks like in flight, perfect. the rest will be tuned to you. next go back to 20 yds and put a piece of black electrical tape horizontally across your target. shoot at it going across. if your shots are off horizontally by more than an inch try putting a 1/8 turn in your bottom limb bolt - if you know how. this is called s tuning. i tried it and it is the easiest method of tuning i've tried, and it works very well. tuning my broadheads in like this has made my confidence in them jump incredibly. they are flying perfectly. i was dotting them at 50 yds yesterday and shot a 4.5 inch group of 5 arrows with field points at 80 yds. this method tunes the bow to you and makes the arrows flight a thing of beauty. i swiped this method from somebodies website and i can't remember or i would just link it.

 

[Rob]

Thanks for the quick answer. Why isn't the berger hole the hlafway point between the axles? One would think that the halfway point would give you level nock travel (assuming round wheels).

While this geometry would be advantageous, it would tend to leave you with a hole in your hand...

Seriously, though, what I mean is that ideally the line of force of the draw should also pass through the pressure point of your hand on the grip. The theoretically perfect geometry would have the grip, berger hole and nocking point aligned, but that would require having a "shoot through hand"... an interesting concept for those who believe in Darwinism, perhaps archers will evolve this adaptation over time.

So, if the berger hole is midway between the axles the grip will have to be well below the midpoint to allow the arrow to pass above your hand. The offset of the draw force line from this will introduce a pitching torque on the bow, and as we all know any torque on the bow is a Bad Thing.

OK, you've caught me... even with the berger hole located above center, the grip will still probably be below center in order to keep the nocking point from being too far above centre -- which is what, as you noted, causes non-level nock travel. But in most setups, it's fairly close to center so the torque is at an acceptable level and the nock travel is as level as it can be.

Does all that make sense?

Rob

 

[peterk]

Bob, it actually kinda does make sense. Scary. Thanks

 

[peterk]

Paper tune (nocking point part II)

Ok, paper tune time. I paper tested the bow and my nock appears to be approximately 1/4" inch above level for it to shoot correctly. At level the vanes are at least 1 1/2" below the point. Is it ok, or do I have other issues?

 

[peterk]

ttt

 

[Jason Shore]

Thanks for your help and reply Bucknasty
Jason

 

[Hollowpoint]

I set my rest so the arrow is centered in the hole(s), then nock an arrow on the string, set it on the rest, put the square above it and measure from the square to the top of the shaft, when the distance is equal...I put my nock point on above the nock of the arrow.....setting is then perfectly square.

Then I bare shaft/group tune, (2 bare and 4 fletched) starting at 10 and working back to 50....when they all have the same POI and the same tail angle in the target then I know my nock point and center shot are dialed in for the arrows.

If the nock end of the bare shaft is hitting tail high....move your nock point down, and vice versa......same thing with center shot.....tail left, move rest left, and vice versa.

Confused yet? I am.LOL

I have never tried it with really stiff arrows, but marginally stiff will work fine....marginally soft wont......especially shooting fingers.

Have fun....Hollowpoint.

 

[ceebee]

bow setup

Jason and Peteak, if you can do a search of the Archery Focus Magazine there was an article by George Chapman on setting up and tuning your bows.
It deals with how to set your nocking point and rest for super tuning your bow. It was in the July- Aug. of 99 . Instructions for single cam. or two cam bows. works like a charm. also instructions for shooting in the center shot location.

 

[bucknasty]

ceebee, those are the directions i gave above. it's in a pdf file on the web if you can find it. do a search for super tuning. there's pictures and everything. it makes more sense than papertuning, which i've done plenty of. but with this technique i didn't even have to break out the paper. my arrows are flying beautiful and true.

 

[peterk]

Earlier I posted that my fletching was tearing low. I raised the nocking point, which helped but I also moved the rest towards the riser a bit which also helped raise the fletching tear. Why did that happen? I should not complain because it is shooting a bullet, but it would be nice to know why.

 

[BillyRay]

I've always had great luck centering the arrow pretty close to the berger hole on the riser, then eyeballing the arrow and setting it up slightly nock high to start with.

Right now my bow is setup with the nocking point VERY high...but hey that's where it shoots the best...