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Discussion Starter #1
I'm very much a noob and have now bought a left-handed Mathews Genesis Bow, and bought the recommended Easton Genesis 1820 arrows.

The bow is at maximum poundage, as I heard that's where bows tend to work as designed.

The rest assembly that comes with this bow is not adjustable that I'm aware of, yet using the recommended arrows, they seem to be fishtailing consistently, and not randomly, all going in at the same angle.

The back of the arrow seems to also be wearing heavily on the rubber part of the rest, which may be acting like a fixed pressure button?

Clues with short descriptions:
http://imgur.com/a/S4Ksf

I'm using a leather tab to fire the bow, split finger, one above, two below.

Any ideas? Is this obviously symptomatic of anything in particular? I don't feel like I'm plucking the string, but does this kind of pattern and wear indicate a problem with form? I am drawing as far back as the bow allows, and the arrows are 30", but to my knowledge that's the full length of these arrows? It's how I bought them.

I'm unable to get to a range where I am at the moment so would be glad of any advice offered here.
 

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Level 4-NTS coach
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The Genesis bow and 1820 arrow are notoriously mismatched. That said, the good NASP shooters can shoot the system with perfect arrow flight and very high scores. It is their form that does this. The bow is also set up so that it can be shot at any draw weight available (10-20#). You DO NOT NEED to have it set at 20# -- for efficiency. In the NASP, we teach 3 under and the bow seems to like this but split is OK too.

Can it be tuned better? OF COURSE!! But The combination you have is the required equipment for NASP/Centershot/ ASAP, etc. Also, in these programs the range is pretty short (10 & 15 meters)

I suggest that the greater part of the wear you are showing is form/execution related -- MORE SO than equipment.

Arne
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's very helpful information, thanks a lot!


I did notice it seemed to shoot better at lower poundages with these arrows.


I also have no doubt my form is contributing to it, so I'll wind down the power and concentrate on getting them to fly as straight as possible.


Thanks again!
 

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I am drawing as far back as the bow allows ...
Excellent advice from Moebow!

This is one thing I picked up on. You need to find the right anchor on your face. Drawing back as far as the bow allows will lead to bad things. Are you working with a coach who can help you with this? Look at where Moebow's draw side hand is anchored in his avatar. You should find an anchor very close to this. Unfortunately, it's not quite this simple. There are several factors that go into finding your optimum anchor. It will be much faster and easier if you have a coach.

A general rule is that the bow should be adapted to the archer, not the other way around. There is an optimum form for each archer and an optimum bow fit too. The process of finding those is part of the fun of archery.

The way your arrows are going into the target are not unusual for bows shot with fingers. As the string rolls off of your fingers, it pushes the back end of the arrow to the side a little & gives it the fishtailing that you see. At longer distances, 20m or so, the arrow flight should straighten out. But don't worry about that now. As a noob, the main thing to work on is your form. This is where a coach comes in.

Let us know how it works out for you,
Allen
 

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Allen is correct about the anchor. Here is a little video I did that might help with that a little. Although I'm not shooting a Genesis, the idea is the same.

http://youtu.be/yXX5lGTTOeg

Arne
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's a useful video and channel, thank you.


I shot a 1616 Easton Jazz arrow earlier and it didn't seem to fishtail as bad.

I also drew to the corner of my mouth which helped too.


The only problem I seem to have now is if I fire with my fingers it seems to release really true, if I use my leather tab, it seems to be kicked off to the side as I release. But this sounds like a problem I need to overcome rather than one of equipment.
 

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Things you might check:

You SAID the bow is set at its maximum poundage, that would be with both top and bottom limb bolts screwed all the way into the riser, right?

Check the Tiller - measure the distance between the string and the point where the limbs attach to the riser. This should be equal on both ends. If not, it can be adjusted by loosening one of the limb bolts until it evens out.

MORE LIKELY:
If you are using the original nocking point, which is a piece of white shrink-tube on the string, they are notorious for MOVING. Check it is placed correctly (1/2 to 5/8" above square) and replace with tied-on nock set.

These bows are designed to be shot "three fingers under" and with the arrow nocked UNDER the nock set, so with your split-finger you may need to adjust the nock set accordingly.
 
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