First off, Bow Madness 32 is a really nice bow with a pretty reasonable draw force curve. If all is as you have stated above, you will pretty likely have issues drawing any bow back at the draw weights mentioned. You mention that you are new to compound bows, you don't mention your age nor if you have any experience with non-compound bows, etc. You also don't mention what you plan to use it for, i.e. target, pleasure or hunting. All of this can play into it, to my thinking. One thing for certain, you have to be sure that the draw length is set properly for you or else using a compound bow can be tough. People at Cabela's might or might not set that properly for you. I really hope it works out for you, like I said Bow Madness is a really nice bow.

 

If you are not struggling too badly with 50# you should get used to it in a month or so. If it's really difficult you could exchange it for the same bow in 60# with a min of 40#
It's better to shoot a comfortable weight so you can work on form and be consistent. You don't really need more than 60# to hunt with.

 

Thanks for the responses. Sorry for leaving out some details. I have never used any type of bow before and I just turned 40. Last night I've dusted my dumbbells at home and worked on my arms, shoulder, and back. Tried drawing the bow this morning and seems to be drawing a little better than before. I am going to continue working on it especially now that I have an idea what difference a workout session makes. I am feeling a little better on the purchase. I am looking at purchasing a membership at a local archery club so I can practice anytime I want to. I'll keep posting progress on this Archery journey.

 

Its the bow a 60# peak or a 70# peak? The 60# bow will go down to 45# I believe. Did the store back it off the maximum 10 turns off bottom?

I would stick with it your muscles will get stronger as you shoot and if you were able to draw 60# then with time it will come easy.

 

I was in s similar situation a few years ago. I picked out a PSE Brute X with 60lb limbs. I'm a tall scrawny guy and the guy at bass pro was helping me set it up. I was new to archery. The tech asked me what draw weight did I think I'd be at. I said 60. Nope. He turned it down to 50. Nope. I'm really embarrassed at this point. He got it down to around 43. I could do that. Was tired after a few shots. It got easier as I shot more. Now I can pull 50 but only a handful of times. I got mine at 48 now. And it's comfortable. I can shoot a while like that. I'm also 40. It will kill a whitetail with no problem if shot placement is decent. I killed a 6 point last year 25 yards out, complete pass through.


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It's a 70# peak and 50.5# minimum 2016 pse bow madness 32. The tech turned it all the way down to minimum. I am going to stick with the bow while I continue to work out. Did 6 sets of 10 repetitions per arm pulling a 50# weight up to my rib cage and pushing on the bench with the other arm while holding my lower body and core tight and still. Planning to do some more tonight. I figure I have 90 days to work on it. I don't know if it's just psychology but I've already noticed a change when drawing the bow.

 

Remember that your recovery time is just as important as your workout time. You can't keep blasting out sets with weights then grab your bow the next day and expect to get anywhere. Shoot your bow or work out, then take a day off to recover. If you over do it, your form will go to crap and you will wind up chasing your tail. Patience grasshopper, patience. Shooting your bow is the best exercise for shooting a bow.

 

A couple of things to consider......first, when you draw a bow, you're mainly drawing with your back muscles. Shoulder muscles are also a contributor. Your arm strength plays a much smaller role. Second, your form during the draw cycle has much to do with how comfortable/uncomfortable the pressure exerted makes you. Don't point the bow up into the air during the draw. Rather, try to stay on point with the bow pointed downrange and level. You can also start the draw cycle with the bow pointing downward, but don't point it at the ground. Level is best. With your draw arm, extend your elbow up so it's about level with your shoulder. When you draw, pull with your draw arm and push the bow away from you with your hold arm at the same time. Try to draw smoothly and steadily. Don't jerk the draw by trying to gain momentum with a quick pull. And, though the safety release you have works well to draw the bow without fear of a dryfire, it's better practice to actually shoot arrows. Load an arrow, step into position, draw smoothly and steadily, hold, and fire. Then, pause for a moment, check your shot, breath, relax, load another arrow and repeat. When first starting out, remember you're not in a race. The most important thing is to learn the proper form, and develop muscle memory. Once you've achieved decent form, everything else will start to fall in place. You'll find it easier to draw, and you'll be able to shoot for longer periods per session. When I first started, I was struggling with drawing at about 55#. I lowered the draw weight to 53# and shot that weight for about 2 weeks of daily shooting. I'm 63, and although I've been pretty fit most of my life, I'll admit my gut gets in my way at times. I'm a smaller guy and not obese, but I could lose a few pounds. After shooting and learning form for about a month, I went to the range one day and shot for 6 hours straight. I was concentrating on improving my form, and not so much on the bullseye. When I was finding the draw cycle really difficult and fearing an early arrow release, I went home. I've never shot again for 6 hours straight, but I shoot 4 different bows with different draw cycles now....all of them set at 63-64 lbs. I don't struggle with any of them, though some of my friends can't draw them. I find the draw cycle on each of them smooth and firm. I can and do shoot them for a couple hours per session. The draw cycles are somewhat aggressive per other's comments and the bows range in IBO from 344fps to 329fps.

I have a target at home, close range. This allows me shoot a dozen or so shots every day if I can't make it to the range. This really helps my body to maintain muscle memory. Again, archery isn't a race, it's a challenge. Don't expect to be a great archer over night. Practice practice practice and then increase the draw weight a pound or two. You'll find you're having so much fun along the way time will fly. And, if you don't increase your draw weight, so what? As another poster said, you can kill targets and animals with 40#. By the way, American Indians had no trouble killing the mighty Bison with bows that were around 30#.

The more you shoot, the better and easier it'll become. Have fun, shoot often, never dryfire. Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress. If you're ever in the San Francisco Bay Area, let me know. We have some great Archery Ranges and they're free.

 

Similar story, bought a 70lb bowmadness 32, drop it down 63 right away but could never get enough arrows thrown before I got tired.

Then I dropped it down into the 50'slbs and was having a better time. So I then decided to just get 50lbs limbs. That I'm running at 45lbs and I can shoot for a good hour before I start loosing form. I don't hunt so I'm not concern with penetration etc.


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That's 12 limb bolt turns with 17.5 pounds of adjustment at 1.46 pounds per turn with the 70 pound limbs.
I know, because I own one. PES hit a home run with this one. Stick with that bow, you were smart to buy it.
Don't be embarrassed, your normal. Most people cant draw my bow. They get it about back half way and say "I think it's stuck".
At 59 years old, I started at 53 pounds. It took me 4 months to work my way up to comfortably shooting 70.
I did not train with weights, I practiced every other day. My lower right torso stayed sore the whole time.

Practice does not make perfect.
You can practice doing something incorrectly, and you will get very good at doing it wrong.
Correct Practice makes perfect.
You may get good, but you will never reach your full potential while doing it wrong.

Keep wax on the string, stand comfortably, and hold the string to the back wall with 3 to 5 pounds of pressure.
Learn and use good form. Your stature, and hand and arm placement is critical.
The left elbow is not locked, but the arm is basically straight.
With the bottom of the left hand turned out from the riser about 45 degrees, the elbow pointing straight to the left, and the wrist straight,
your thumb and first finger should form a pivot point so that the bow is almost floating between that point and the knocking point.
The right hand nestles comfortable just behind the jaw bone. Then your body turned and pointed to where this is a comfortable draw.
I use a full grip as I draw, then I correctly position my arm and hand before I aim and take the shot.

Note: "The left elbow pointing straight to the left" is important.
Ask any boxer, you have 30% more speed and power when you get that elbow up.
The entire left structure positioning mentioned is Martial Arts and boxing related. It takes advantage of our natural body mechanics.
Your arm not only has better string clearance, it’s stronger and more stable in that position.

 

Just wanted to post an update to my archery journey with the '16 PSE Bow Madness 32. I still have the bow and loving it more every day. I am now able to shoot 30 arrows before my arm starts to get tired. Still working on my strength and working on items Luke Cool mentioned on the previous post. A good friend of mine took me to Kishwaukee Archery Club the other day and I had a blast. I am definitely going to get a membership. I do have one question, should I gradually increase the draw weight of the bow? Or, should I keep it as is for now?

My draw length is 27
Arrows are Gold Tip Hunter XT 500 Spine Arrow w/ 100 grn insert 27.5
TRU-FIRE Hardcore 4-Finger Release

Thank you for the help!

 

I am like most of the others in this thread. It took me a few months to get up to 70 pounds.
My lower right side of my back hurt the entire time, but I grew to love the speed.
As that poundage became easy for me, I would crank the limbs down a couple of turns.

The BM 32 is a 340fps bow. A 310 fps bow is easier to draw, but I wanted a fast bow.
The time I spent practicing to get up to a 70 pound speed bow was not wasted.
I was 59 when I got back into compound bows again, I'm 60 now.
I have a target 25 yards down range in my back yard.
Practice every other day, and take care of your body; input = output.
When I said "Correct Practice makes perfect", your bow and your physical being are a package deal.
.

 

I have a bm32 and I'm shooting 51 lbs. with a short 26.5" draw length. It has 60 lb. limbs, but I had been having some shoulder and elbow pain so I lowered the lbs. and I feel much better and don't ever plan on going back to 60lbs. I'm 67 yrs. old and I want to stay in the archery game as long as God allows. This bow has plenty speed at that poundage, too

 

You can keep increasing weight if you want, just don't over do it and remember that it will take awhile to get back up shooting as much as you were. I wish I could shoot my bow at 60# for a long time but at 55# I can easily shoot 100 arrows in a day with out getting tired.

 

Im an archery tech at my store. I have a training method that is use to help get kids up to a comfortable hunting weight for whitetaill. Take six arrows and shoot 5 rounds with a 3-5 minuet rest in between each round 3 to 4 times a week. At the the start of each new week turn your limb bolts up 1/4 turn and repeat. Keep this up till you reach your desired weight. It can take time but I've had tons of parents come back in at the end of summer just before the season start and tell me how much that training style helped. Some people can even to a 1/2 turn and if that works thats great just gotta remember to keep at it. This also depends on haow much time you have to shoot. Ive got 9 acres and a 50yrd range set on the side of my house so i can shoot durring my free time no prob